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Not that I know ANYTHING about front end geometry, but could some of this be avoided if the brake bias was a little more generous to the rear brakes? Within reason and safety of course.
Just thinking out loud.

Don.

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Sure it can... most likely it would be a proportionate value

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It shakes only whenyou're braking??? Sounds like warped brake rotors too me Simple fix

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My LRT does the same thing about midway through the shutdown. If I lift off the brakes and re apply then it usually stops. But if you all are cracking steering arms, that scares me. I thought I was the only one out there with this problem. I guess I'll have to do some more checking.
Rob told me that the new steering arm design would fix any issues, but I never got any to find out for sure.

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I have a LRT, and the same problem. When I changed to the frontend, I also picked up some MPH. I started having the shimmy/shaking problem at shut down hitting the brakes. I replace the rotors, pads, and bearings, still have the shakes. I just ordered a new hub and bearings, thinking that there may be something with the races in the hub? I'm having to push on the brakes, then let off, then lightly on the brakes again. Doing this the return road comes up quick at 147. This year the car will be 155 mph or so. I'll be watching this, and trying things suggested.

I don't run the washers for the strut rod bushings this way, they are turned around from this old pic.

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Does it kinda do this:

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WOW! Cool video!! Where'd you get that?!

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I have a LRT, and the same problem. When I changed to the frontend, I also picked up some MPH. I started having the shimmy/shaking problem at shut down hitting the brakes. I replace the rotors, pads, and bearings, still have the shakes. I just ordered a new hub and bearings, thinking that there may be something with the races in the hub? I'm having to push on the brakes, then let off, then lightly on the brakes again. Doing this the return road comes up quick at 147. This year the car will be 155 mph or so. I'll be watching this, and trying things suggested.

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I have had this issue since day one. I feel your pain watching the turnoff coming at a HIGH rate of speed . Now I see that Chuck at Best had a steering arm crack. I'm going to go back over my frontend before I put my motor back in this time. I see you have the newest version of the k-frame with the extra added braces, so I'm thinking that isn't an issue. And I was also told it was the wheel offset on the front wheels, but I already have the most offset in that you can buy. I'm also going to try another strut rod set-up on mine that is more rigid but much more free than stock.
Keep me posted, and I'll do the same.

BTW 440dart, I also run the torsion bar set-up.

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My alignment is 3 deg caster,0 camber and 1/16 toe in. That being said I do think an alignment with max caster and 0 toe causes this shake with this particular K member. I know people who have switched from 1.75 to 2.25 offset wheels and solved the problem also.
Bob

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Hey Bob,
I wasn't aware you ran a LRT. Have you always run 3 deg of caster? I was told to run more and that's the way mine is aligned. I already run the 2.25 offset wheels. I run 0 camber and 1/16th toe in too. Is yours a torsion bar set-up or coil over? Let me know.
Thanks and take care.
Love your car

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Mopar to ya, Just from your pics, your tie rod angle is wrong in relationship to the lower control arm.

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You got me thinking now, but I am pretty sure that was a pic before it was aligned. But I will surely check tomorrow. I was just showing the style of steering arm I have compared to 440dart's.