I have a 72 Challenger with power steering.
I replaced the steering box because it was old and leaking.
I replaced it with the same but rebuilt unit.
My steering wheel is almost 90 degrees off making the spokes almost but not quite straight up and down. I understand that if it were 180 off I could pull the column from the coupler and and turn the wheel 180 and re-install the column. This is not the problem.
I took it in for front end alignment to see if they can make the adjustment at the tie rods but I was told after they tried that there was not enough adjustment in the tie rods to make the steering wheel straight. I would not have enough threads left in the adjuster on one side.
I pulled the pitman arm off and turned the steering wheel from all the way left to all the way right. I have about 3 1/2 turns of the wheel. I took half of that, 1 3/4 turns and figured that would give me the same travel from left to right. However, I cannot install the pitman arm back on without turning the steering wheel some which puts me back where I was.
The shaft in the steering box is indexed in 4 places so the pitman arm can be installed in 4 locations but it would seem I would lose travel to one side if I turned the wheel to line the pitman arm up to one of the other spots.
What am I doing wrong?

First, do you have a service manual? That is mostly required, but it spells everything out very plainly. Where did you get the rebuilt box? The box has a master spline on both the pitman arm shaft, and also the input shaft for the column coupler to line up with. Un hook the pitman arm, rotate to one side, then back all the way to the other, counting the number of turns. Then take it back to the middle, and attach the arm in the middle with master spline signed up. With it lined up the coupler has an index mark to line up with the master spline on the input shaft. The rest should fall in place from there. Oh, if you got the box from a parts store, it probably won't be any better than the original.

I can't wait to hear the replies on this one.
The correct answer may (according to most posters here) devalue your car to a negative value and be worse than owing not one, but two cone type sure grips at the same time.

Good luck.

can you compare the vertical and horizontle splined shafts splined clocking position(s) on the old box to what you have now?

I do have a service manual and as I mentioned in my post, I turned the steering wheel from side to side to get to the middle.
The coupler will only go on one way. It is indexed and has a roll pin to hold it in place.
Actually the new box is better. It works and doesn't leak.
I appreciate the suggestions.

RR, I returned the old box some time ago or I would double check how things line up. I did a comparison when I got the new unit but don't have any pics to go back and look at.
The only thing I can think of doing is turn the wheel past center and see how much travel I lose on one side. Unless there is something else I am not seeing.
I might be thinking what you're thinking, The new box may be off internally making the input and output shafts out of line.

I was thinking more the locating "groove" in the splines was maybe cut in the wrong spot. I don't know PS at all & they do have that slop when not pressurized but it'd be nice to get it confirmed halfway & & see where the steering wheel is at and see where the pitman is pointed.

Contact whom ever you obtained it from. The box itself appears out of spec.

If were a Borgeson box with a Bergman adapter you have an infinite choice of how steering shaft adapter meets the steering box, albeit possible box is not at top center in straight ahead steering wheel position. On a stock system you have only 1 choice as to how adapter meets the steering box,,,2 for how steering shaft meets the adapter.

I do not understand if you are considering limiting travel of steering going one direction permanently or just for testing to center wheel. However if wheel would be centered by adjustment of tie rods,,,the steering box would not then be on top center,,,,which is not recommended.

It sounds to me like you're doing everything right. It may have the wrong pitman arm on it.

Someone in the past may have clocked the wheel itself. Make sure that all 3 clockings are where they are supposed to be before blaming one or the other.

Last ditch solution if everything is centered and symmetrical and working properly is to remove the master spline from the steering wheel hub, that way you can clock it anywhere you want.

Did you install a new pitman arm and idler when you installed the new box?
I installed fast ratio idler and pitman arms on my power steering box and my steering wheel is off.
I've tried rearranged everything to no avail, I had the wheel alignment done and just live with the steering wheel off center.

Lay odds that turn signal cancelling does not function as it should if you are off more than just a little.

Was wheel straight up before switching from old leaky box?

Dave,
Can you explain? I'm not sure I follow your thought.
Here is a little more info:
I had the column out during the restoration where I put in new turn signal switches, paint and then put it back together.
The crush can if I remember right is indexed and can only go on the shaft one way. The steering wheel has a slot in it that lines up with the can. The steering wheel is installed correctly with the slot. The coupler is indexed so it can only go on one way which it is. The shaft can be turned 180 in the coupler but that is not my problem.
I never drove the car before the restoration (8 year project)so I don't know if there was a problem before I swapped out the box.
I just went through my photos I took before the tear down and it seems that the wheel is in the correct location so it has to be related to the column restoration or the steering box replacement.

You are right! I can handle the spokes being off until I find the problem but the turn signal cancelling is driving me nuts.

While responding to Dave's post I looked through the pics I took before the tear down and it seems the steering wheel was in the right position. It has to be either the box swap or something I did while restoring the column but I don't know what that could be.

Original pitman arm and idler.

If you post some pictures of the suspect areas, pitman, steering box, etc, some of the eagle eyes may be able to get you pointed in the right direction.

All I am saying is that there are three shafts with master splines. The wheel to the column, the column to the box, the box to the linkage. All three of those have a clock that should be in a certain place according to the service manual. I know that things only go on one way but when the box is clocked correctly is the wheel? Is the pitman arm? I know that my Dart with aftermarket coupler and aftermarket Tuff wheel needed some fine tuning to get it right. The coupler and pitman arm were perfect, I had to put the wheel on two or three teeth off to make it straight up.