My project involves replacing my front suspension and steering components, upgrading to front disc brakes and getting my engine rebuilt. The torsion bars were the first obstacle and then the upper ball joints, but now I'm really being tested. While attempting to drop out the motor through the bottom, only the drivers side was loose. I double checked everything and soon realized that the passenger side was welded to the side frame.

Here's another view

Here's where the front passenger frame appears to have been repaired.

You can't catch a break can you ?

Time to get out a small grinder or cut off wheel it looks like and free it up

That's what I figured, I'm not sure whether I have to remove the engine first or if I can do it with it in place. I have room, I'm just worried about all the sparks.
Jim

Just tape some cardboard (or something similar) up around to cover stuff from sparks..

Just grinding it should be fine.

Never seen that before.

Use sheets of tin foil or cardboard to cover up anything you don't want sparks to get on.

I can loan you some tin foil...always keep plenty around to make hats out of

I am guessing the car was hit on that side?

Looks like alot of piece work welding there.

Not good.

It looks to me like the rear k-frame mounting area of the rail is crushed up (in). Pieces/patches were then welded in.


In my opinion sparks around the engine are the least of your troubles.

If the k-frame is the same one which was hit then it may be bent(twisted) as well. you may need to look into another one.

If the damage is from rust and that was someone soulution then tha k-frame is probably ok.



You may want to look into getting a complete or partial frame rail for that side. the rail can then be spliced into the good part of the existing Rail.

Odd repair, maybe a "window" cut into the apron to repair the actual rail. Take a look at the left rail & apron, and around the cowl/firewall/apron area for signs of distortion or repair. The buckle above the rear K mount looks suspicious to me too, as does the lack of undercoating, but I don't know '71-up B bodies that well. Welding the K to the rail indicates the mounting holes may be damaged, or the K was used to pull the rail into position and the shop neglected to finish up, but that's not the proper way to pull & square. Time to check & measure the structure. Are you rebuilding the suspension because of weird handling, or because it's worn?

Just pull the engin from the top then grind the welds for the K-frame.

It is probably not as bad as it looks, otherwise the K frame wouldn't have bolted in well. That's not to say the K frame was ever taken out, however.........so after it is all out, take a bunch of cross measurements underneath. If they are off it can be repaired, any good frame man could do it. It looks like a nice car, don't let someone elses past scare you!

yeah,what 4Bbodies said-get on a level surface and take some measurements-plumbob frame points to floor,mark same[chalk]and measure every which way-stretching a string will also let you know if you have a serious frame problem-or pay a body shop that you trust.use a dremel with a cut off wheel and hang wet/damp rags around your spark area to grind those welds-work slow and steady so the wheels [you'll need 9 or 12/ 3 to a pack]won't bust

Well, I know the car was hit at some point in the '70's, it also has a different door and the jamb has had some work done to it. The K frame is shot anyway, I'm getting it replaced. As far as the frame rail goes, are they available, or do I need to get one from another car? I wasn't sure I could replace that section, if I could, that would be my choice to get it back to as normal as possible. If you missed my earlier post about the K frame, here's another photo of it's condition. The more I find out about this car, the list of "issues" is already a mile long, I'm surprised I've been safe in it so far.
Jim

You should be able to get that with the motor in, but, if there is any sign of a "spring" in the K-frame when you unbolt it, I'd get the car to a frame machine with the K-frame in it, (measure the K-frame you remove first, as it may be bent). If you need one, there may be a couple available in this area. Good luck.

"IF YOU'RE UNDER CONTROL, YOU AIN'T GOING FAST ENOUGH."

I know I can get a different K frame, I'm asking about the right front frame rail.
Jim

Is the k frame bolt stripped by any chance,hence why they welded that side on? did they cut a window in the rail to try and put a nut on the backside of the k frame bolt?

It's a devise that uses the bumper bracket mounting bolts to raise the front of the car. And it also can be used to move the car around with the wheels off. It will support the car with the motor ok, but it's hard to move by myself.
Here's a better picture.
Jim

Where did you get the car? Maybe P/O can help you with collision or rot question.

I got it from the guy I sold it to, and the accident was before I used to have it. I have no information on anything prior to that.

Jim

How did the car handle before dissassembly? (assuming youve driven it)

Had the alignment checked?

IF the car runs straight, handles good, gets god alignment specs, doesnt eat tires, and the repair isnt coming apart, assuming your using this as a driver, I wouldnt get too involved with rebuilding the repaired area.

IF youre returning the car to OEM for show (it appears its a real Road Runner) then getting the correct frame section is going to be needed. (clearly you know that part though)

I dont know if a repopr of the frame rail is made, but I would be tempted to get one off a clean southern/western car.

I agree about taking some measurements. Personally, I would take some from front wheel to back wheel - Taking them from the same side and across the car diagonally. I bent the frame on a Rmacharger plowing a number of years ago, and we used that method to find out if the truck was out of square (it was)

Thats a really odd place to have that sort of repair. Passenger side eliminates battery corrosion.....rust is a possibility, but how the heck would an accident damage that section? I know the K frame is a bit messed up, but thats a pretty well protected area. TRying to envision the accident that couldve caused it.

I'd pull the motor from the top first just in case the k-member was welded in because the bolts were stripped. The last thing you need it to cut the k-member loose and have everything hit the floor!

Besides, installing the engine from the bottom has a good reason but pulling it from the bottom is way more trouble than its worth !!!

Well Pictures and story upcoming.
This photo indicates that it went 1 of 2 ways.
Jim

You need to make some room in your PM box.
Jim

I've never used a cutoff wheel or a die grinder before, but I'm amazed at what they can do. I decided to leave the motor in while I tried to get the K frame loose. I took some advise and covered the gas lines and fuel pump with wet towels. I loosened the k bolts a little to see if the welds were getting free. I got the front first and then the back. I took my time and was sure to be as safe as possible. I had one big hangup with the shifter rods. I neglected to remove them because I didn't think I had to. I realized a problem when the motor started going up off the dolly as the car was raised. There should be a checklist in the tech section.

Here's some more photos

Another

Another one

One more

Last one

Thanks to all who helped!

As my project moves on, I'll be looking for more.
Thanks Again!
Jim

That's great you finally got it all pulled out!

This is not terribly uncommon (hidden damage discovered upon disassembly), and the good news is it can be fixed. If you're DIY, make sure you triple check all measurements and write each on down before you strat cutting things of/apart.