Re: Radiator for Big Block A-body
[Re: mopower440]
#2308669
05/21/17 07:56 PM
05/21/17 07:56 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,085 Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,085
Niles , Ohio
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65 bbody I was running a stock 65 Rad.It got trashed Got a 150 buck champion from Ebay 22 inch.Cools my built 440 great.Even when its hot out its still 180.Sure fooled me.I did have to use a 1 3/4 to 1 1/2 adapter for my lower hose.It was like 8 bucks from advance.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: Radiator for Big Block A-body
[Re: mopower440]
#2308725
05/21/17 09:29 PM
05/21/17 09:29 PM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 619 nj
JAMESDART
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 619
nj
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on my duster I run the champion 26", with a clutch fan and home made shroud. Never gets hot. I didn't cut the core support, I figured I'd try it without cutting first.
Last edited by JAMESDART; 05/21/17 09:30 PM.
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Re: Radiator for Big Block A-body
[Re: Rhinodart]
#2308742
05/21/17 09:41 PM
05/21/17 09:41 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,163 Mesa, Arizona
dart4forte
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,163
Mesa, Arizona
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So you have a factory 67 (929), 68 (033), or 69 (065)? If that is the case your radiator should have 1/2" tubes with 3 cores. If is has been recored at some point then it is typical for them to use 3/8" tube cores and they will not cool as well. Send it to Glen Ray Radiator and have them recore it correctly. Had my 033 re-cored this spring. Made a world of difference
“So if it’s on the internet it must be true”
Abe Lincoln
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Re: Radiator for Big Block A-body
[Re: JAMESDART]
#2308854
05/22/17 12:08 AM
05/22/17 12:08 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863 middle Tennessee
mopower440
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863
middle Tennessee
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on my duster I run the champion 26", with a clutch fan and home made shroud. Never gets hot. I didn't cut the core support, I figured I'd try it without cutting first. can you give me the part# of the 26" champion you used and what mods if any did you have to do to install it in the duster?
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Re: Radiator for Big Block A-body
[Re: kenworth_goose]
#2308882
05/22/17 01:09 AM
05/22/17 01:09 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,627 Round Lake Beach, Illinoisy
Rhinodart
Rhinotruck
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Rhinotruck
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,627
Round Lake Beach, Illinoisy
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Just to beat a dead horse, an aluminum radiator actually cools worse than a brass/copper radiator. The best reason to use and aluminum radiator is for less weight, and most people think they look better. The main reason they have been made of aluminum/plastic since around 1980 is they are MUCH cheaper. I call BS! My last 68 dart, hot 360. Somewhere around 435hp at the flywheel. I could NOT keep it cool at all with MANY different copper/brass radiators, fans, shrouds, pulleys. You name it I tried it with no Difference. I bought a cheap Ebay aluminum radiator, no shroud. It never went above 180 degrees! I'm a believer. I literally tried every combination of parts and couldn't get anything to work. I bolted the aluminum radiator in it with a factory clutch fan and it NEVER ran over 180 again. I drove that car to the nats that year and it was one of those hot weekends and I beat the eyeballs out of it and had ZERO issues. I am talking proven science, not anecdotes, glad it worked for you. I have no idea if what shape the radiators you tried were in, and you probably didn't know either. ![shruggy shruggy](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/shruggy.gif) I put a Champion in a 340 Dart convertible, it was not a bolt-in, had to drill two holes and the quality was not great. Sure it was cheap, that is the point of aluminum radiators. I am sure it worked great, I never drove the car as it was a customer car and he never got back to me after he got it. ![wave wave](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/wave.gif)
The funny thing about science is that if you change one miniscule parameter you change the entire outcome to the way you want it.
JB Rhinehart, Realist
A-Body's RULE!
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Re: Radiator for Big Block A-body
[Re: Rhinodart]
#2309413
05/22/17 11:04 PM
05/22/17 11:04 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,046 ky.
kenworth_goose
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,046
ky.
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Just to beat a dead horse, an aluminum radiator actually cools worse than a brass/copper radiator. The best reason to use and aluminum radiator is for less weight, and most people think they look better. The main reason they have been made of aluminum/plastic since around 1980 is they are MUCH cheaper. I call BS! My last 68 dart, hot 360. Somewhere around 435hp at the flywheel. I could NOT keep it cool at all with MANY different copper/brass radiators, fans, shrouds, pulleys. You name it I tried it with no Difference. I bought a cheap Ebay aluminum radiator, no shroud. It never went above 180 degrees! I'm a believer. I literally tried every combination of parts and couldn't get anything to work. I bolted the aluminum radiator in it with a factory clutch fan and it NEVER ran over 180 again. I drove that car to the nats that year and it was one of those hot weekends and I beat the eyeballs out of it and had ZERO issues. I am talking proven science, not anecdotes, glad it worked for you. I have no idea if what shape the radiators you tried were in, and you probably didn't know either. ![shruggy shruggy](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/shruggy.gif) I put a Champion in a 340 Dart convertible, it was not a bolt-in, had to drill two holes and the quality was not great. Sure it was cheap, that is the point of aluminum radiators. I am sure it worked great, I never drove the car as it was a customer car and he never got back to me after he got it. Every part I tried was Brand new! No used junk, plugged up radiators for me. I'm talking new, never used parts. I tried at least 3 different A-body factory radiators with zero difference. Then I bought 1 more and it was Aluminum and it never heated up again! So much for science. Just FYI, I refuse to use an old or used radiator with any new engine build.
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