When I restored my 68 RR several years ago I took my manual box apart - mostly to just clean it up and check it out. The seals and such looked to be in good shape since it only had 10K mileage on the car before it was parked long term. When I reassembled the box I worked the adjustment nut on top to take out the play as per the FSM. Once I got the car on the road again I had the typical slop at the center of the steering that most manual cars have. To be honest, it is most annoying when I first take the car out and after a while I adjust to the slop but still annoying. Both of the prime steering companies (S&G, FF) claim that their units will not have the dead spot so I'm good with buying a better unit than what I have. From reading the old threads on here I think that the 16:1 box is a bit much for the car but is the 20:1 noticeably different than the stock 24:1? I will never parallel park this car and it is not a daily driver.
So other than the extra effort in and out of the neighborhood, how it the 20:1 on the highway ramps, or medium speed maneuvering? No one in my immediate area has this ratio so not able to take a test drive.
The vehicle is a 68 RR with a 426/727. I'm 6 foot, 225 lbs so body strength is not an issue.
Any experience with 20:1 and a B-Body?

At any speed greater than a walk you will not notice the "effort" required to turn the wheel.

Have to turned the wheel stop to stop to count the turns?The rolling resistance depends on the tire also I think

Here's the easy answer - the faster ratio box will require 20% more torque turning the steering wheel.

What affects ease of steering?
Wide tires
Worn tires, because tread blocks are shorter and stiffer
Non-stock wheels, because they put the center of the contact patch farther away from the imaginary line going through each ball joint. This distance is a lever arm.

Until recently I drove my '64Dog daily. It had 31-10.50/15 tires on the front and a 7" wheel replacing the 16 x 5" stock rims. It was a bear to turn the steering wheel before it started rolling.

Your new setup should work fine and will be a little easier to drive on Interstates.
No steering box allows a dead spot in the center of travel. One time I tracked down the sloppiness to a worn out system to the idler arm. Turn the steering wheel and the arm moved up and down.

R.

Good point - Even though all new parts were used during the rebuild - does not mean that something other than the box could have loosened up in the few thousand miles since then. Will definitely need to verify before replacing the box.

Well what's interesting is the fact that when centered the box is supposed to be at its tightest.

You've tightened the top adjustment but in reality it could be the input shaft that's loose and moving in and out ever so slightly. A very slight movement would translate into quite a bit at the radius of the steering wheel.

I honestly dont understand why anyone would ever think a faster ratio is "too much". You cant have too much ov a good thing. Its not 10:1. 16:1 is a nice compromise. As for steering effort, even if it IS a bit hard, you get used to it. Before i started training, i had two mechanic friends, racers, both bodybuilders, both bigger and stronger than me. I had a manual box in my Charger with 295's up front and a tiny aftermarket steering wheel. Neither could move my car, without serious effort. Drove almost like power steering for me. You get used to it. Its not going to be 'twitchy' at speed (new cars can be well faster... no one complains there, its just more ov a good thing). At your size? No problem.

Get the 16:1 box. I'm going 12.7:1 on mine, and again... 295's up front, and a tiny wheel.

Quick ratio box, 15" radial tires equals alot of muscle when parking major effort to turn the wheel..
Once moving all is fine...
Note that we have a 16 to 1 manual box and 15" radials on my 70RR. One does get use to it, but it does seem like a big step when changing over from the daily driver Dakota that has power steering.

Just my $0.02...

Find you slop first. Look at the tubes for LCa in k bar. Welds could be broken. Found that a few times. Can't recall if that caused slop or instability.

If Oem look isn't a must, look into that bottom bearing kit somebody was selling for below pitman. I tend to think you'll find the issue someplace along the way.

Can't answer about the ratio.

The 20:1 box is a great upgrade for 14-17" rims sizes wider than 5". Anything less than 5" (5, 4, 3.5") wide and a 16:1 box is the answer in my experience.

I don't drive a desk for a living so your mileage may vary.

I have a 16:1 box in my challenger. It's comparable to a power steering box with no belt when it comes to slow speed turns, however it changes lanes with the flick of the wrist. I would not hesitate to use a 20:1 box, in fact, I probably would prefer it for parking. I'm 6', 175lb. So if it's no sweat for me, should be no sweat for you!

20:1 box in a 69 Dart here,215/70/15 front tires.
It's been in the car about 10 years.At times
the steering was a little vague. Over the winter
I added Firmfeel's sector support kit and there
roller bearing Ideler arm kit.
Only have a few miles on it this spring,but
those 3 items make for some nice steering.
Mike

I've had a Firm Feel 20:1 box in my '66 Charger for many years. Put a lot of miles on it until the last couple years. I think it drives fine.

Flaming River 16:1 in -70 E-body with 225x70x15.... No problem to cruse in town

Thanks to everyone so far with your inputs. I moved recently and had a new garage built. One of the last things to transfer is my 4 post lift. Once that is at the new garage I can get the Runner up in the air and take a close look at the rest of the steering components. I set up another manual box on the workbench and played a bit with the adjustment screw to see how the box reacts to the different adjustments. I will report back in a couple weeks and share what I find.

Thanks again,

68Jim

I have a 20:1 in a 69 runner with 215/70-15 tires up front and yes it's a tad heavy below walking speed, but other wise it's a good ratio. Drives nice. Get it.

I too am going to deal with firm feel shortly as we think my mopar performance worm is giving me some grief...... Just have to take my box out and send it to them so they can use it. Saves mailing a core in after the fact too.

20:1 is just a hair over 4 turns lock to lock.
Stock 24:1 is supposedly 5 7/8 turns lock to lock which can be a bit 'handy' for cruising.