I had in mind a McLeod 18lbs SFI steel one, but i found this lil lovely and i'm wondering if its any good. I've never heard ov this brand. Its the correct 130 tooth/10.5" i need. I'm not worried about the balance, i have a fix for that.

I'm building a hot little 360 Magnum for my 74 Challenger. Should have a little over 400HP, good torque, and it'll weigh about 3200 without me and i'll be daily driving it and carving canyons at every chance. If it matters i'll be running the tallest gears i can find (2.76's preferably, but there are 3.23's in the car now). It doesn't have to cook off the line, if its fast from 20-30MPH up i'm happy.

Is 15lbs too light? I know the 18lb steel one will work fine, i've talked to enough people, but is this going too far? I dont mind suffering a bit for performance, but it cant be completely undriveable.

Any specific issues with running an aluminum wheel on the street?

Is this brand any good?

The last aluminum Scheifer wheel I ran, had a riveted in metal plate. A little more difficult to replace when it wears out. But m feeling is that a 15 pound flywheel in a car that heavy with the gears you are planning on running is going to be a real bad fit. The lighter the flywheel, the more effort it takes to create the inertia to move the car from a stop, meaning more into the gas, higher rpm, higher slip, more wear. I'm not real keen on your 18 pound flywheel with 2.76 gears, either, but the 15 I would not attempt at all.

I'm running an aluminum flywheel in my Dakota, but I think it's about 18 lbs. 4000 lb truck, 325 rwhp, 4.56 gears with a T-56. Not an apples to apples comparison for you but I like mine, and it's very street friendly.

Hmmm... thats what i was wondering about. Is 3200lbs that heavy? It will get lighter over time. I'm a genius with weight reduction. Probably within the year, much closer to 3000 even. I'll also get either a 5th speed or 6-speed OD stick too... as soon as funds allow. This just has to work for now...

Okay... now THATS heavy. You're running pretty close to the same engine combo i'll have too. But you do have gearing on your side... in both the tranny and diff. Hmmm...


WILD stab in the black here... but does ANYBODY remember how heavy the flywheel was in Ehrenburg's Green Brick (earlier on, with the pre-1-Lap 340 or the 360 Magnum)? I WANT to say it was light... like 12-13lbs, but i cant remember, and my magazines are buried. That car was geared similar to mine, not much lighter than mine, and it seemed to work well for him. 'Secret weapon' he called it...

Too light of a flywheel for the gearing and tq. I think you would be happier with a heavier wheel and pull the weight off something else to make it up.

THe weight of your pressure plate makes a difference too. If you have a steel or iron PP, I think you can get away with it, if you have a clutch that engages smoothly, because you might be slipping it a bit to get moving. I think the old old Sheifer wheels are cast or forged, I don't think they are billet like a new Mcleod, and it is probably not SFI approved if that matters.

Its reciprocating weight i'm trying to lose. Making up HP.

Using a stock Luk clutch and PP. Its steel or iron, not sure which. Pretty lightweight (flimsy). Good or bad? Its brand new.

The Schiefer wheel isn't SFI. Which i'd prefer, definitely (no scattershield), but this will save me almost $200 over the proper McLeod one....

McLeod is Schiefer.

Try it and then you'll know. If you don't like it you'll just lose a day or two of hard work under the car. I ran a 18 lb McLeod in my Coronet for a few years and it worked out okay. Now I have an aluminum wheel in there and it works. We did go too light one time on Tim's red brick and he torched the clutch loading the car on the trailer. The lightweight wheel worked just fine on the track but slipping the clutch to put the car on the trailer killed it.

I ran a Scheifer wheel a long time ago. It was an SFI wheel back then. You don't have a shield, and you don't think $200 more is worth it compared to loosing your feet/legs/life? I hope it's a stock engine and not sprayed. One missed shift on a power shift with an aluminum flywheel can ruin your day.

Why 2.76 gears, 22" tall tires? Will be giving away a lot uf torque multiplication. Alot uf slipping the clutch. no bottom end

You said exactly what I was thinking!!

Or put a Rev limiter on it

I dont think you will like that light of a
flywheel.. I didnt like mine and I ran a steeper
gear than you.. on the take off from a light I
had issues of it trying to stall and if I turned
up the rpm I was slipping the clutch too much..
after 1 summer I pulled that wheel out and put
in a heavier steel wheel.... good luck

Because i dont have the time or money to jam a T56 in there. 27" tires. The engine should be torquey, for a small block anyways, and the car is decently light... so i figured i could get away with it.

Its all moot now anyways. Went away for the weekend and i come back and the part is gone. Guess i'm going 18lb SFI steel afterall. I WANT to go this route... but Christ... $500...

"Worked out okay"...??? How'd you like it? What engine/trans/gear combo were you running at the time? How heavy?

Find a used McLeod steel flywheel on ebay and then send it to McLeod to get lightened. That was what I did and it didn't cost very much.

I think PRW has an inexpensive Mopar flywheel that is fairly light. I probably still have that 18 lb flywheel kicking around somewhere. I don't really need it anymore so if I have it I'll sell it to you for less than $500!

I'm in Canada. The extra steps will add up, and fast. None on there right now anyways.

PRW's site lists only Chevy, Ford and GM.

Sent you a PM.