Ok guys n gals, I have a stock suspension 70 Challenger. The car was originally a 318 auto.. Now is a sb408 stroker, with 727 and 8 3/4. Still has non-power drum brakes and power steering.

My question is what suspension modifications can/should I do? From what I can gather, it seems there are 2 roads to go down; linear racing/ drag racing or pro touring?

I know dollar amount is limiting but lets say $7K.

My main objective would be to have a car that I can take to the strip on the weekends and zip down the country back roads with great turns without the car feeling like its going to plow through a turn or excessive body roll. I know a lot of this has to do with no sway bars.

I know this is not much to go off of. What further questions need to be answered to help myself pinpoint what is exactly needed. I see kits by Hotchkiss and others but have no real clue their application. How does this transform into the feeling in the seat and steering wheel?

Thanks all for your advice and guidance.

Regards,

Brandon

There actually is a very large range of area between drag racing and pro touring. Heck, even pro touring its self can be ill defined as some simply see it as 18" wheels and tires with no other mods while others see it as complete replacement chassis using beyond competition components.

Improved street performance is easy. Add some chassis stiffening, step up rates in springs, bars, and shock, have fun. You can take it further by adding improved steering, larger brakes, and larger diameter wheels with better performing tires if you chose.

Do you want a packaged approach or piece meal? In its simplest form, you can call the guys at Firm Feel or Hotchkis and order up a complete package that will transform your ride. Or, you can buy in pieces and upgrade over time in incremental steps.

The problem you will run into about application is, unlike drag racing that has an e.t. or m.p.h., street performance, ride quality and performance handling can be significantly different among different drivers. So there isn't a clearly defined line about what package X will produce over package Y.

Mike Maier was quoted in the current Sportscar on his best advice for deciding on "upgrades". His biggy was that you are the best judge of what fits your driving style. Based on your driving the car, then you can target a modification.

There are some really big dollar items that are a very individual decision. Wheels and tires are amongst them. Tires and road condition are going to be what effects everything else.

Definately one approach is to simply work with one of the firms like Tony posted and include in the budget tires (and if needed rims for those tires). Decide if you'll be using a drag tire for trips down the track and add that in too.

The low buck approach is to work from the factory handling package. For an E-body that means larger t-bars than came with your 318 base package, a front sway bar AND a soft rear sway bar. The magazine testers from the period (reprinted in Brookland Books) were not happy without the rear sway bar (commenting on E-body only here). Depending on your roads and tire choice, the largest factory t-bar is the minimum. Stickier tires, grippy - smooth roads, feel confident to going larger on both t-bars and front anti-sway bar.

For the low buck brakes you can go factory disk setup and some good pads, or try out some really good shoes on your current drums. For shoes, I still prefer semi-metalic; although I wouldn't hesitate to use Porterfield's street lining or something from Rochester Brake and Clutch. Both can arc the lining to the drum. Even if you just keep the rear drums, same applies.

Don't forget to budget alignment and some decent, non-adjustable shocks. Parts store shocks or Bilsteins or such.

The low buck approach will leave money for future changes you want to try after driving. It might even leave money for some track time or a performance driving school like Evolution Phase I. Lots of fun and a can 'fix' some things without changing any parts at all.

Lots of choices... though I think there are a few things that apply to all your goals. FWIW I also started with a 1970 318/auto Challenger.

First is brakes. 4 wheel drums are just not enough when the guy or gal in front of you slams on the disc brakes. You at least need front discs. There are lots of ways to get there. There are more and better options if you upgrade to later E/later A "big bearing" spindles. I would start there. Then pick out a front disc option. Dr Diff has quite a few. The factory style 11.75" setup is good and many options beyond that now or later. 11.75" discs will need at least a factory 15" wheel. Smaller discs available will fit a 14" wheel... but this is a performance application so I would suggest you plan on 15" wheels minimum.

Next is the backbone of the chassis. Whether straight line or cornering the unibody can use some help in stiffness as performance level is increased. Frame connectors are high on the list. There are many options... as long as they are weld in they will help. I used Auto Rust Technicians 2" x 2" square tube which fit below the floor and they help a lot.

All of the above plus suspension rebuild and maybe a bigger front sway bar will make a fun street car that won't fall down on the track. Firm Feel helped me on the suspension side.

Beyond that, it starts to matter if straight line or handling is the goal.

My '70 is modified for handling and decent road manners.

Thanks for the replies so far, please keep them coming... Disc brake conversion, as I see is it, is a "must" and not included in this equation, I should have mentioned that before. Unless mounting of the calipers would dictate what kind of mods I can do. This is a grey area for me.

Wheels and Tires I would also consider a separate issue, unless they would be limiting/hindering decisions in the suspension upgrades. Again, is wheel backspacing limited with X kit vs Y kit generally speaking?

I do understand the driver ability has a lot to do with setup of a car.

As far as the piece meal vs "kit" the only thing I really cannot do is welding.. because of lack of tools and defiantly lack of experience.. LOL.. other than that, I am not afraid to tackle anything though, its the best way to learn. And I can always have a shop do the welding.

Start here:
Brakes:
http://www.doctordiff.com/brakes/
Mopar Suspension:
http://www.firmfeel.com/e_body_mopar_parts.html
or http://www.hotchkis.net

There is a lot you can do within your budget and still have a car that does what you want it to do.

1" torsion bars
1 1/4 front Hellwig sway bar
3/4 rear hellwig adjustable sway bar
Bilstein RCD shocks
stock upper control arms with Moog 7103 offset bushings installed for more caster
Four 17x9 rims with 5" backspace with 275/40/17 tires w/offset rear shackles
Four 18x9 rims with 5.25 backspace with 275/40/18 w/offset rear shackles

That will give you a noticeable difference

Tires and road conditions are the major variable. Visual this by taking it to extreme examples. The stickier the situation, the more roll resistance will be needed. Autocross or track days using sticky (r comps or other competition tires) will make the suspension work harder than even brisk street use. If your country winding roads are rough, loose or wet, then somewhat softer suspension and a bit more sidewall and tread will keep better contact and traction.

If the LCA's lack sway bar tabs, 1. Look for well designed bolt-on solutions for attaching the sways bars. 2 Buy tabs and pay for welding or buy tabbed LCAs. FF's designs looked pretty good.

The chassis limits tire sizes long before any suspension pieces limit tire size. Now, relocating different pieces, which most suspension packages do not do but it can be easily done using other parts, does change backspace requirements. The popular B body rear in an E body and then the choice of B body housing will have a definite impact on backspace over using the stock E body housing.

Most suspension pieces whether kits of single pieces, are designed as stock replacement. Allowing them to be used with no mods if the user desires. Mopar guys are a bit of a demanding group that way compared to some type C or F drivers.

Thanks again for the replies everyone please keep them coming!

I should ask what have you done to stiffen the body up for these mods? subframe connectors should be on the top of your list, but there is also torque boxes, inner fender braces, lower rad brace, engine brace, LCA reinforcement, k frame reinforcement, stitch weld the body, cage? ect ect.

I have not done anything to stiffen up the body or frame, it is completely stock. I would infer from your line of questioning that this advice should be considered and heeded.

Yes. If you don't firm up the chassis, then the body of the car becomes an active, albeit an inconsistent, part of the suspension equation. The chassis is the foundation all mods are based on. Make it a good, solid one and it will allow the suspension to work better.

I ws stunned at just how much firmer and more positive my 100% rust-free virgin metal 4dr Dart felt, with its stockish suspension, than my rusty 72 Charger, with its upgraded suspension and better tires. I used to notice the same thing waaaaaay back in my youth driving a friend's Nova compared to the Buick A-body's i used to drive.

I couldn't imagine how wicked a stiffened up E-body with all the chassis mods would be. Come this summer... i wont have to. My 74 is getting all the mods. I might even weld up all the seams.