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Re: Lead vs Filler
[Re: RestoRick]
#229853
02/20/09 07:30 PM
02/20/09 07:30 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 15,134
Kelowna, B.C. Canada
DPelletier
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 15,134
Kelowna, B.C. Canada
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Add me to the list;
my factory '70 V1X top car had the factory plastic filler. I was also of the opinion that only painted roofs got the lead (although I'm sure there were exceptions)
Cheers,
Dave
1970 Super Bee 440 Six Pack
1974 'Cuda
2008 Ram 3500 Diesel
2006 Ram 3500 Diesel
2004.5 Ram 2500 Diesel
2003 Ram 3500 Diesel
2006 Durango Limited
[url] http://1970superbee.piczo.com [/url]
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Re: Lead vs Filler
[Re: smac77]
#229855
02/22/09 01:02 PM
02/22/09 01:02 PM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
denfireguy
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
This may have been done before but let's here some veiws for lead or lead free solder vs filler in a factory panel seam, ie: 1/4 panel to roof where the joint is quite large? 
Its been discussed before and the factory seemed to have lead in the painted roofs and plastic in the vinyl top models. I would prefer lead.
I've never seen plastic behind a vinyl from the factory? Not pre 73 anyway, they've always been lead in any that I've removed...
My 73 is lead. The rest of the vinyl portion of the roof was primer with some body color overspray and that is it. There was no rust when the vinyl was removed. There was some rust in the passenger lower quarter that was replaced but in my opinion, it was attacked from the interior from other rust in that quarter allowing moisture into the trunk.
Craig
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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Re: Lead vs Filler
[Re: smac77]
#229856
02/23/09 09:36 PM
02/23/09 09:36 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 417
Caledon, Ontario
smac77
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 417
Caledon, Ontario
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Thanks guys for all the input... I'm currently doing a 70 cuda, 68 charger, 69 dart and a 70 challenger... all vinyls all factory lead....all had either some rot or deep pitting underneath the lead... so although it's been in there for 30 plus years it did fail... I've always re-done mine with lead but the reason I posted this was I heard a number of positive feedback comments on another forum about welding the seems shut (like resto rick said above), epoxying and using evercoats everglass then a light skim of rage on top and you're done... no moisture problems as the everglass on the bottom is waterproof, no acid trap to worry about with lead.... Anyone used it before? here's a link: http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=36
Restoration, Sales and Canadian Distributor For: AMD Sheetmetal Wizzard Direct Fit, Bolt In Aluminum Radiators Legendary Interiors SSBC & Wilwood Brakes Control Freak Suspensions Fine lines Tubing and many more... www.macleanclassics.com
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Re: Lead vs Filler
[Re: RestoRick]
#229857
02/23/09 09:44 PM
02/23/09 09:44 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 417
Caledon, Ontario
smac77
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 417
Caledon, Ontario
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Quote:
The factory "Process Standard" paperwork I've seen & read, states the filler used under vinyl was a heat cured material. (Called Plasti-sol IIRC).
Similar to bondo, but as mentioned, more like the hardness of the factory seam sealer.
It failed miserably when moisture would get behind it through the open spot welded roof seam and cause rusting & filler puckering.
I've personally seen one or two cars with lead used under an original vinyl top, but I'm of the opinion that most were done with the plastic material.
The seam needs to be welded solid and pinhole free in order for plastic fillers to last.
I'm a firm believer in welding the seam solid and using lead filler on painted top cars.
More info on the lead vs. plastic debate here...
Leadwork 101
Rick
good article rick, maybe the guys at chrysler should have been as careful with their prep!
Restoration, Sales and Canadian Distributor For: AMD Sheetmetal Wizzard Direct Fit, Bolt In Aluminum Radiators Legendary Interiors SSBC & Wilwood Brakes Control Freak Suspensions Fine lines Tubing and many more... www.macleanclassics.com
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Re: Lead vs Filler
[Re: smac77]
#229858
02/23/09 09:54 PM
02/23/09 09:54 PM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,363
Iowa
burdar
Owen's Dad
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Owen's Dad
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,363
Iowa
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Quote:
My 73 is lead. The rest of the vinyl portion of the roof was primer with some body color overspray and that is it.
My 73 Challenger has filler in the roof NOT lead. I took the origonal vynal top off the car. It was primered underneith.
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Re: Lead vs Filler
[Re: burdar]
#229859
02/24/09 05:39 AM
02/24/09 05:39 AM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 401
Berlin, Germany
Flo
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 401
Berlin, Germany
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my67 Fury had lead under the vinyl roof.
I left the lead on as that was one of the few places where there was no rust.
If I replaced something I would use a high quality body filler. The acid you are using with the lead can cause severe trouble especially in seams.
1967 Fury III 4door HT
tiny 318, late model roller block, bored and stroked to 344
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Re: Lead vs Filler
[Re: burdar]
#229860
02/24/09 06:49 PM
02/24/09 06:49 PM
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
denfireguy
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,822
Colorado
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Quote:
Quote:
My 73 is lead. The rest of the vinyl portion of the roof was primer with some body color overspray and that is it.
My 73 Challenger has filler in the roof NOT lead. I took the origonal vynal top off the car. It was primered underneith.
I took the original off too. Maybe it was where it was made at. Mine was from Hamtramck.
Craig
2014 Ram 1500 Laramie, 73 Cuda
Previous mopars: 62 Valiant, 65 Fury III, 68 Fury III, 72 Satellite, 74 Satellite, 89 Acclaim, 98 Caravan, 2003 Durango
Only previous Non-Mopar: Schwinn Tornado
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Re: Lead vs Filler
[Re: Flo]
#229861
02/24/09 10:59 PM
02/24/09 10:59 PM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,247
Fremont, CA.
Topcat
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,247
Fremont, CA.
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Quote:
The acid you are using with the lead can cause severe trouble especially in seams.
I don't agree with that entirely. The big word here is CAN. If you do a thorough cleaning of the area after the work is done, it'll be fine. Pock holes and any small crevices can hold the acid. But again, it needs to be a smooth layer as possible and cleaned real well after.
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