Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston
[Re: justinp61]
#2294416
04/26/17 11:28 AM
04/26/17 11:28 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,365 Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,365
Marion, South Carolina [><]
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My steel drum from CRT came with an aluminum piston. Pretty sure the billet steel A&A drum I bought from CRT came w/ an aluminum piston.
CHIP '70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60 '69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60 '71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75 '73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75 '90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt '06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
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Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston
[Re: mopar dave]
#2294502
04/26/17 02:21 PM
04/26/17 02:21 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,181 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,181
Bend,OR USA
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Last edited by Cab_Burge; 04/26/17 02:21 PM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston
[Re: mopar dave]
#2294663
04/26/17 08:31 PM
04/26/17 08:31 PM
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,080 organ
maximum entropy
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 5,080
organ
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i have the billet steel drum in my scamp, and i recommend it highly. i got mine from cope.
for what is the good life if not doing things thoughtfully?
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Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston
[Re: jwb123]
#2294682
04/26/17 09:09 PM
04/26/17 09:09 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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My vote is for the aluminum drum with the steel sleeve, and aluminum piston, light weight, is easy on the band. I never tried a back to back test on 1/4 mile times. But since the drum has to be stopped by the band for 2nd gear, the lighter the drum the less stress on the band. Plus it is better material so it will not explode like the stock drum at high RPM'S If you knew the facts about a stock drum blowing up you wouldnt say that last line of your statement.. a stock drum is fine IF you dont trash your over running clutch.. if you trash the over running clutch you then spin the drun 2.2 times the engine rpm.. DONT pedal the engine while your still in low gear( if you spin.. SHIFT).. if you trashed the over running clutch the drum can take ABOUT 6600 rpm before it reaches the point that centrifugal force will let it blow.. I'm still running a stock drum and have been since I started racing(a number of years now).. if you dont do stupid stuff you wont have a problem.. but of course a lot of people will say it will blow.. BS.. dont do stupid stuff... OK now all of you can say I'm wrong.. but I've still never blew one up.. and I turn at least 8200 rpm on every shift.. also this is in the same boat that if you put a bolt in sprag, your fine.. more BS.. a bolt in sprag is for one that spun in the housing
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Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston
[Re: justinp61]
#2294717
04/26/17 10:44 PM
04/26/17 10:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,247 Mt. Vernon, Ohio
dartman366
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,247
Mt. Vernon, Ohio
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My steel drum from CRT came with an aluminum piston. so did mine
Light travels faster than the speed of sound,,,this is why some people seem bright untill you hear them speak.
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Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#2294722
04/26/17 10:50 PM
04/26/17 10:50 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,247 Mt. Vernon, Ohio
dartman366
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,247
Mt. Vernon, Ohio
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My vote is for the aluminum drum with the steel sleeve, and aluminum piston, light weight, is easy on the band. I never tried a back to back test on 1/4 mile times. But since the drum has to be stopped by the band for 2nd gear, the lighter the drum the less stress on the band. Plus it is better material so it will not explode like the stock drum at high RPM'S If you knew the facts about a stock drum blowing up you wouldnt say that last line of your statement.. a stock drum is fine IF you dont trash your over running clutch.. if you trash the over running clutch you then spin the drun 2.2 times the engine rpm.. DONT pedal the engine while your still in low gear( if you spin.. SHIFT).. if you trashed the over running clutch the drum can take ABOUT 6600 rpm before it reaches the point that centrifugal force will let it blow.. I'm still running a stock drum and have been since I started racing(a number of years now).. if you dont do stupid stuff you wont have a problem.. but of course a lot of people will say it will blow.. BS.. dont do stupid stuff... OK now all of you can say I'm wrong.. but I've still never blew one up.. and I turn at least 8200 rpm on every shift.. also this is in the same boat that if you put a bolt in sprag, your fine.. more BS.. a bolt in sprag is for one that spun in the housing I agree with you Mike. the only reason I put a steel drum in mine was the old stocker was junk so I needed one anyway and verytrue on the bolt in sprag too.
Light travels faster than the speed of sound,,,this is why some people seem bright untill you hear them speak.
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Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#2294872
04/27/17 08:07 AM
04/27/17 08:07 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,684 W. Kentucky
justinp61
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,684
W. Kentucky
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If you knew the facts about a stock drum blowing up you wouldnt say that last line of your statement.. a stock drum is fine IF you dont trash your over running clutch.. if you trash the over running clutch you then spin the drun 2.2 times the engine rpm.. DONT pedal the engine while your still in low gear( if you spin.. SHIFT).. if you trashed the over running clutch the drum can take ABOUT 6600 rpm before it reaches the point that centrifugal force will let it blow.. I'm still running a stock drum and have been since I started racing(a number of years now).. if you dont do stupid stuff you wont have a problem.. but of course a lot of people will say it will blow.. BS.. dont do stupid stuff... OK now all of you can say I'm wrong.. but I've still never blew one up.. and I used to turn at least 8200 rpm on every shift.. also this is in the same boat that if you put a bolt in sprag, your fine.. more BS.. a bolt in sprag is for one that spun in the housing Fixed it for ya.
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