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727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston #2294302
04/26/17 02:22 AM
04/26/17 02:22 AM
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Mt Morris Michigan
mopar dave Offline OP
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Talked to John Cope today about billet steel front drum. The billet steel drum is available with a billet steel piston from John, but with billet aluminum from other vendors. Pros and cons of the piston material? Does it really matter?

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: mopar dave] #2294344
04/26/17 07:26 AM
04/26/17 07:26 AM
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dvw Offline
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I've run both. I like the aluminum drum. The billet steel is very heavy. I think the clutch and band wear is better with the aluminum. For sure my car was .10 quicker in the 1/8 back to back.
Doug

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: dvw] #2294398
04/26/17 11:12 AM
04/26/17 11:12 AM
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Mt Morris Michigan
mopar dave Offline OP
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Which aluminum drum did you use, full metal jacket or all aluminum. Again, curious to the piston material, billet steel billet aluminum. Does it make any difference?

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: mopar dave] #2294414
04/26/17 11:25 AM
04/26/17 11:25 AM
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W. Kentucky
justinp61 Offline
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My steel drum from CRT came with an aluminum piston.

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: justinp61] #2294416
04/26/17 11:28 AM
04/26/17 11:28 AM
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Marion, South Carolina [><]
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Originally Posted By justinp61
My steel drum from CRT came with an aluminum piston.

iagree Pretty sure the billet steel A&A drum I bought from CRT came w/ an aluminum piston.


CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: mopar dave] #2294430
04/26/17 12:07 PM
04/26/17 12:07 PM
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S.E. Michigan
cl440 Offline
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I have run both billet aluminum and billet steel drum. The car lost nothing! Ran exactly the same #'s. Not having to change trans fluid every 25 passes like they say you should with the aluminum drum is a bonus. As far as the piston material goes? We have an aluminum piston but steel should be fine also. I wouldn't give the piston material a second thought.

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: mopar dave] #2294432
04/26/17 12:07 PM
04/26/17 12:07 PM
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dvw Offline
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Both drums came from A&A. Last inspection all clutches and bands looked new. It had 150 passes with no fluid change.
Doug

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: justinp61] #2294448
04/26/17 12:30 PM
04/26/17 12:30 PM
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Mt Morris Michigan
mopar dave Offline OP
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My mistake. went back to copes site and it does not list piston material, just says billet. He does offer an ultimate billet steel as well as a billet steel drum. More money for the ultimate, just curious to whats included with it.

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: mopar dave] #2294502
04/26/17 02:21 PM
04/26/17 02:21 PM
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Bend,OR USA
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I would look for and buy the aluminum drum with the steel liner for the band up twocents
I should buy several of them now before I need them, huh whistling realcrazy

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 04/26/17 02:21 PM.

Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: mopar dave] #2294513
04/26/17 02:52 PM
04/26/17 02:52 PM
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jwb123 Offline
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My vote is for the aluminum drum with the steel sleeve, and aluminum piston, light weight, is easy on the band. I never tried a back to back test on 1/4 mile times. But since the drum has to be stopped by the band for 2nd gear, the lighter the drum the less stress on the band. Plus it is better material so it will not explode like the stock drum at high RPM'S

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: jwb123] #2294551
04/26/17 04:14 PM
04/26/17 04:14 PM
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Mt Morris Michigan
mopar dave Offline OP
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I talked to John Cope yesterday about that drum. He said he had one in the shop when they first came out. wasn't impressed with it and thought it looked cheesy. I haven't totally gave up on the full metal jacket just yet. Too bad their isn't someone on here that can give us first hand info on it. ya or nay.

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: mopar dave] #2294663
04/26/17 08:31 PM
04/26/17 08:31 PM
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organ
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i have the billet steel drum in my scamp, and i recommend it highly. i got mine from cope.


for what is the good life if not doing things thoughtfully?
Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: jwb123] #2294682
04/26/17 09:09 PM
04/26/17 09:09 PM
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Romeo MI
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Originally Posted By jwb123
My vote is for the aluminum drum with the steel sleeve, and aluminum piston, light weight, is easy on the band. I never tried a back to back test on 1/4 mile times. But since the drum has to be stopped by the band for 2nd gear, the lighter the drum the less stress on the band. Plus it is better material so it will not explode like the stock drum at high RPM'S


If you knew the facts about a stock drum blowing up you
wouldnt say that last line of your statement.. a stock
drum is fine IF you dont trash your over running clutch..
if you trash the over running clutch you then spin the
drun 2.2 times the engine rpm.. DONT pedal the engine while
your still in low gear( if you spin.. SHIFT).. if you
trashed the over running clutch the drum can take ABOUT
6600 rpm before it reaches the point that centrifugal
force will let it blow.. I'm still running a stock drum
and have been since I started racing(a number of years now)..
if you dont do stupid stuff you wont have a problem.. but
of course a lot of people will say it will blow.. BS..
dont do stupid stuff... OK now all of you can say I'm wrong..
but I've still never blew one up.. and I turn at least 8200 rpm
on every shift.. also this is in the same boat that if you
put a bolt in sprag, your fine.. more BS.. a bolt in sprag
is for one that spun in the housing
wave

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: justinp61] #2294717
04/26/17 10:44 PM
04/26/17 10:44 PM
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Mt. Vernon, Ohio
dartman366 Offline
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Originally Posted By justinp61
My steel drum from CRT came with an aluminum piston.
so did mine


Light travels faster than the speed of sound,,,this is why some people seem bright untill you hear them speak.
Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: MR_P_BODY] #2294722
04/26/17 10:50 PM
04/26/17 10:50 PM
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Mt. Vernon, Ohio
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Originally Posted By MR_P_BODY
Originally Posted By jwb123
My vote is for the aluminum drum with the steel sleeve, and aluminum piston, light weight, is easy on the band. I never tried a back to back test on 1/4 mile times. But since the drum has to be stopped by the band for 2nd gear, the lighter the drum the less stress on the band. Plus it is better material so it will not explode like the stock drum at high RPM'S


If you knew the facts about a stock drum blowing up you
wouldnt say that last line of your statement.. a stock
drum is fine IF you dont trash your over running clutch..
if you trash the over running clutch you then spin the
drun 2.2 times the engine rpm.. DONT pedal the engine while
your still in low gear( if you spin.. SHIFT).. if you
trashed the over running clutch the drum can take ABOUT
6600 rpm before it reaches the point that centrifugal
force will let it blow.. I'm still running a stock drum
and have been since I started racing(a number of years now)..
if you dont do stupid stuff you wont have a problem.. but
of course a lot of people will say it will blow.. BS..
dont do stupid stuff... OK now all of you can say I'm wrong..
but I've still never blew one up.. and I turn at least 8200 rpm
on every shift.. also this is in the same boat that if you
put a bolt in sprag, your fine.. more BS.. a bolt in sprag
is for one that spun in the housing
wave
I agree with you Mike. the only reason I put a steel drum in mine was the old stocker was junk so I needed one anyway and verytrue on the bolt in sprag too.


Light travels faster than the speed of sound,,,this is why some people seem bright untill you hear them speak.
Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: mopar dave] #2294759
04/26/17 11:48 PM
04/26/17 11:48 PM
Joined: May 2003
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aZLiViN
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break a rear gear on launch, shock the driveline and roll the sprag.... what happened that was so stupid in this scenario??

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: MR_P_BODY] #2294760
04/26/17 11:50 PM
04/26/17 11:50 PM
Joined: Nov 2015
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Missouri
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jwb123 Offline
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Missouri
I have been racing since 1974, all but one car mopars. I never have broken a roller clutch, have never blown up a drum either. As you say proper burn out technique will keep the roller clutch in good shape. A broken drive shaft at the wrong time will destroy a roller clutch and no driving technique will stop that from happening. But two of my buddies in one year with just as much experience as me, did blow up their transmissions and it was not pretty, both were hurt, but fortunately not seriously. Both had carbon fiber shields and both got pieces in the car. The drum in a 727 is a bomb waiting to go off, the cost of a good drum is cheap insurance for your car and yourself. I know exactly the science why the drum can and does blow up and have seen the results several times. One night in a hospital will pay for several drums, the cost of a drum is cheaper than a whole transmission case in pieces on the track. Seems common sense to my to buy a good drum. I just figured my luck was no different than my friends.

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: jwb123] #2294773
04/27/17 12:08 AM
04/27/17 12:08 AM
Joined: Jun 2003
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Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY Offline
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Originally Posted By jwb123
I have been racing since 1974, all but one car mopars. I never have broken a roller clutch, have never blown up a drum either. As you say proper burn out technique will keep the roller clutch in good shape. A broken drive shaft at the wrong time will destroy a roller clutch and no driving technique will stop that from happening. But two of my buddies in one year with just as much experience as me, did blow up their transmissions and it was not pretty, both were hurt, but fortunately not seriously. Both had carbon fiber shields and both got pieces in the car. The drum in a 727 is a bomb waiting to go off, the cost of a good drum is cheap insurance for your car and yourself. I know exactly the science why the drum can and does blow up and have seen the results several times. One night in a hospital will pay for several drums, the cost of a drum is cheaper than a whole transmission case in pieces on the track. Seems common sense to my to buy a good drum. I just figured my luck was no different than my friends.


Then buy one if it makes you feel better
wave

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: MR_P_BODY] #2294798
04/27/17 01:09 AM
04/27/17 01:09 AM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 8,040
Mt Morris Michigan
mopar dave Offline OP
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I'm gonna buy the aluminum full metal jacket or the steel billet just for piece of mind. Starting with a fresh build so kinda a no brainer anyway. Just need to make up my mind and get the full order in by friday, my trans builder is waiting.

Re: 727 front drum billet steel vs billet aluminum piston [Re: MR_P_BODY] #2294872
04/27/17 08:07 AM
04/27/17 08:07 AM
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,684
W. Kentucky
justinp61 Offline
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Originally Posted By MR_P_BODY

If you knew the facts about a stock drum blowing up you
wouldnt say that last line of your statement.. a stock
drum is fine IF you dont trash your over running clutch..
if you trash the over running clutch you then spin the
drun 2.2 times the engine rpm.. DONT pedal the engine while
your still in low gear( if you spin.. SHIFT).. if you
trashed the over running clutch the drum can take ABOUT
6600 rpm before it reaches the point that centrifugal
force will let it blow.. I'm still running a stock drum
and have been since I started racing(a number of years now)..
if you dont do stupid stuff you wont have a problem.. but
of course a lot of people will say it will blow.. BS..
dont do stupid stuff... OK now all of you can say I'm wrong..
but I've still never blew one up.. and I used to turn at least 8200 rpm
on every shift.. also this is in the same boat that if you
put a bolt in sprag, your fine.. more BS.. a bolt in sprag
is for one that spun in the housing
wave


Fixed it for ya. wave

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