There sure are many to choose from.They have tubes in 1 inch,1 1/8 and 1 1/2. Must be 6 companies manufacturing them.My present rad uses the original mopar tanks with a high efficiency core that keeps the heap in the 180* range unless it's really hot out and I'm in line at a show to park,then it might creep to 210*
With all the different radiators available,I thought i would bring it to the MOPARTS court and see what you guys had success with.I do not have room for any puller fans , I have 2 pushers that I have been using for years with no problems.
The reason I wish to change is Jenny Craig sitting on my shoulder guiding me on my diet to loose weight.An aluminum radiator should cool better and save me some weight.

What say YE??

I have had good luck with my Afco radiator in my GTX. I bought a different one for the Road Runner that looks closer to a stock radiator. Not sure who makes it, but they are sold locally to me.

I have an generic aluminum radiator from a local roundy round shop and it cools my car great, but I'm not running a blown Hemi. My advice would be to look at large double pass aluminum radiators.

Be careful choosing an aluminum radiator. There is a lot of science behind them, and a lot of lies. Not all radiators work the same. The 1" tube is a good idea, especially if you can use a 2 row. Some companies put them inline, some stagger them for compactness. My thought is that much larger than 1" and, although you are flowing a lot of coolant, not enough is getting any surface cooling for the engine. I think a sacrificial radiator cap is a good idea also. It has an anode sticking out of it that erodes away from acids and/or alkalies that build up in the cooling system.

Thanks sg,this is what I'm looking for.I see prices from $200 to $800,,,,

I ran a stock never touched 65 rad in y 65.Jack slipped and crunched it good.Evene bent the shroud that is stock.It ran 180 190 all day.Went to a cheap champion off the bay for 150.It runs 180 all day even when its 90 out.I cant believe how well it cools.Only thing I had to do was make a top hose and use a 1 1/2 adapter to 1 3/4 hose for lower.Rocky

Champion radiators for around $220 delivered are great--they are bolt in and work great--they sometimes come out of the box with a slight 'twist" but they bolt right in Mopars and work--The biggest mistake I see all the time is spending $800 and getting a unit boxed in with electric fans--they block more air than they flow and are just a bad idea for folks that don't understand how simple cooling can be with PROVEN stock design like a real correct shroud, fan clutch, PLAIN ole water pump nothing fancy just no China wrong designed crap impellers--THE BASICS work gang!!

I cant remember at the moment but either
Champion or American(pretty sure its Champion)
make the Summit brand radiators.. I went with
Summit 3 pass 1 1/8" tubes.. a nice piece

3 pass Thought they only went 2.Sounds like the Champion is the winner. Me go buy!

As far as I know they make up to a 3 pass radiator..
also understand that "PASS and ROW" mean 2 different
things.. pass is how many times the fluid goes back
and forth.. rows are the number of tubes in each row
and they can be staggered to fit.. some dont understand
that

What is the good and bad to multi pass??

http://www.prcracing.com/aluminum-radiators.html

my latest radiator came from these guys. Was able to call them up, and get the fittings I wanted in the location I wanted.... Just wish I'd pulled the trigger and went AN fittings instead of traditional hose inlet/outlet.

My biggest concern when getting an aluminum radiator is construction. Epoxied assembled cores are basically disposable. Most radiator shops wont repair them, and welding bungs or making changes to tanks or mounts make me shy away from epoxy cores.
+1 on the sacrificial anode cap. Also, if rubber mounting the radiator, install a ground strap to the chassis.

I bought the basis radiator and welded on a all
the stuff I wanted.. a drain, brackets for the
cooler and mounts for side plates to help control
air going through the radiator and tabs to mount
the thing

I'm not an aluminum welder... was nice to have someone to call, talk to, and have all the above options taken care of. I also had a trans cooler installed in one of the tanks.

I have a Champion 3 core in my Belvedere. It never gets over 180-190 even last summer in the 90's w/high humidity and hot lapping. I run a factory shroud and derale mech fan and pump.

I bought it from someone her on Moparts. The 1st rad I got was welded very poorly(made 1 call and it was all taken care of. the sent a pick up request and sent the replacement very quickly)

I was just going to post a question about Northern radiators. I need a rad for my 74 Challenger. There is a sale on Northern aluminum rads up here right now. $275Cdn. 3-core i think, looks decent enough. Anyone?

I stand corrected... the Summit ones are Northern
and not Champion.. thats what I have.. they are
all welded.. no epoxy.. I like mine.. I have been
on the road with it in 93* temps and running down
the road at 75-80 mph and the temp stayed at 185*
with a 170* stat and thats with a 518 trans that
had a pretty high slippage rate (10%).. would I
buy another... yep.. in a blink.. well worth the
price
EDIT
I had to go through all my paper work to see where
that radiator came from.. it was Northern

I run AFCO in my sateLite and a mates 65 belvedere . I have also fitted champion in a 69 roadrunner . Champions dont seem to mount a stock shroud real goid , bracket wrong . With the genetic afco i had brackets wrlded on , plus rotated bottom hose outlet
Never had issues with my 68 , i run the Mopar 5 blade clutch fan stock damaged shroud plus a 12"manual controlled pusher fan

Tex

this may sound a little off, but have you considered cutting the support to allow the radiator to sit forward of it's original mounting point, then adding a puller fan setup ? you may not be able or wanting to, but in my opinion, a puller setup will be much better, and moving the radiator ahead should allow the fan setup to clear your pulley setup. that is provided there is enough room to do this. just a thought.

Huh.

Well... its about $100 over budget... but the car didn't come with a rad. Hmmm... Weight reduction is a big theme in my shop. God dammit... just when i finally got that credit card paid off...

I have a Griffin in my cuda that works awesome. It is a direct bolt in just like factory. It has 2 rows of 1.25" tubes...they wanted me to use one w/ 2 rows of 1.5" tubes, but it wouldn't fit w/ my fan and water pump setup. It wasn't cheap (about $750 if I recall correctly), but it works great and I'm happy w/ it.
I was more concerned w/ cooling capacity than weight reduction.

But what makes the Griffin worth $500 more than a Northern or Champion??

I couldn't tell you, lol. I don't have any experience w/ the other 2 you mentioned. If I had to do it over, I'd try the cheaper radiator first.

I'm gunna give a cheap shot....HAHA

http://www.eastwood.com/triflow

Does anyone know anything about these?

Here are some pictures of a Griffin radiator that a friend of mine had in his '57 chevy. This was the 3rd radiator from them. Each one did the same thing. The car now has a Northern radiator with the tanks modded by me to work in his car. These Griffins were $1100 each. They come polished with an A/C condenser. The brown is from "bars leaks" that he needed to put in to drive home from a show in Minnesota.

Itis! you opened a can of information worms here with this aluminum rad thing.
Sounds like you have a huge menu to think through and it is COOL that some heads of state on here have/are already trying these various rads in real world street conditions.
I'd be confused.
Does a blown motor create more inner heat than a conventional motor?
I have an AFCO unit in mine for years and it seems to be on the edge of efficiency for my ride at least, so double check your options. IIRC the Afco brand is what the boys and girls use in stock car racing. Lots of heat, but also lots of wind speed if you're not tailing. If you're tailing in that scene, then that rad has to be a good unit.
As a side note, I also made sure to design and make a tight lip air ram system in front of the car utilizing aluminum sheet to create walls where all the incoming air can not go anywhere but through the core of the radiator.
You have time, so take your time and research.

I just spoke with Scott@championcooling.com on the phone.I'm on data overload The meow might be a cross flow GM style
Need to speak with another vendor or 2 about other brands as well.
I will have some more room now that the engine is set back.Might just wait till the engine is back in before pulling the trigger.

I had a Griffin on my T/A. It gets hot here in Socal...100+ many summer days. Never had any issues and I had it in the car for 8 years before I sold it to a guy in New Zealand. I also used waterless coolant. No need for sacrificial anodes.

Two things. You would improve cooling by moving the radiator forward and mounting the fans behind it. You lose about 20% efficiency when the fans are trying to push the air rather than pull the air through the rad. Second, anything more than 2 rows is a gimmick. I had no problem keeping my blown Hemi cool in Florida with a $200 Howe 2 row 19 x 28 rad. What helped a lot were the electric fans mounted to a sealed shroud.

I may sound inept, but what is waterless coolant?
Yeah, it can exceed 100 degrees here too... But you don't see -30 degree temps there. The problem usually shows up as a weep after winter storage, and turns into a gusher by summer. Like I said, no radiator shop around here will touch an epoxied core, and a new version of the same crappy radiator is 1100 dollars. I guess certain areas of the country are acceptable for use with these things.
The Northern radiator has been in the car for 2 years now with no failures as of yet. It cost just under 200 bux. It was a do it yourself kit as far as tank inlet/outlet and mounts etc... I'm fortunate enough to do the mods here, so if you can't do it yourself, it will cost more.
I have the same Northern radiator in my 1st gen diesel going on 7 years now, but it is corroding internally. My fault for the rubber isolation and no grounding. Perhaps the coolant you suggest would help me? I'm sure the radiator isn't long for this world after looking inside of it. Even the cap sealing area is pitted. Is this coolant rated for cold temps?

I bought an Afco rad from Mancini for my 63. It came with brackets on it but no holes in the brackets. I lined it up and then marked and drilled the holes and it has worked great for me. Ron

I went with a copper brass 4 row triple pass from US radiators for my 572 hemi, they actually have a higher emissivity than aluminum. $895 special order through classic industries.

Now to get the car finished so I can try it out.

I put in a Champion in my stroker jeep, runs fine at low speeds, but hates the highway above 60mph and 105 outside air temps...may go back to copper brass on it too

Several of you posted pics of what appears to be e replication of the stock rad just made in aluminum.It's now my belief that the 1 inch tube is better than the stock 5/8th tube.2 row works as my 4 row copper/brass.
They said they have a 3 pass that will put the hose positions in my desired locations for about $350.

On order to have a crossflow,they said to use the triple pass in order to have the top on the passenger side and the bottom on the drivers side.The 2 row 1 inch will supposedly out cool my copper/brass 4 row with high efficiency core.
They are in the $200 zone.I must fabricate mounts to hold the rad in each corner.