At least your picking on a lighter car to start with

Nice looking Duster John! Check the front end really well, probably has all the bushings rotted out. Check all the torsion bar mounting points too, A bodies rust/break in those areas a lot.

Thanks Big D. Actually, torsion bar mounts look good. I will look more carefully for cracking in that area. Ball joints are good ( some one has done some work on it at some point in time ). Upper control arm bushing are fare ( will replace them anyway ). Both strut rods are bent and could use new bushings. Do I have to do something with the lower control arms in order to get the strut rods out so I can straighten them? Don't want to change the lower control arm bushings as they seem ok. Still haven't figured out why I can't get the camber in line on the left side ( negative 3 degrees and out of adjustment )? Something gotta be bent, just aint seeing it yet. Could be the frame mounting points? Under body of car ( floors, wheel houses, rear extensions, unibody frames, K frame / mounts, are all rust free. Might consider sub-frame connectors while I am down this far - could need them with that 300 HP nitrous shot to that 225.

99% of the time when its that far out something
is BENT in the front end.. look at the frame rail
on that side.. doesnt take much.. to be that much
out I would say that car was hit in that corner
EDIT
Years ago I use to do frame straightening on cars
of that era and normally it was bent.. if you cant
get the front end to get into spec

Also, the left front fender has some filler in it.

If it has negative camber for sure the lower bushings are toast. Don't mess around. New lowers, offset uppers and good strut rod bushings. I took my strut rods and cut the threaded ends off. Turn them down the ends a touch on the lathe and connect with moly tubing. Make them 3/8" shorter. Pulls the lower arm forward slightly increasing caster. Cheap, strong, light, easy. This combined with offset upper bushings (forward location) will usually get acceptable alignment results, done many.
Doug

John, IIRC you can take the clip out of tge torsion bar anchor, back the torsion bars off, loosen the nuts up on the LCA, and drive them back far enough to get the strut rods out without pulling everything apart.

Bent strut rods will cause odd alignment issues too, but as Mike said, check the frame rail real good.

My copper Duster had been whacked hard enough on the driver's side it had ripped the UCA mounts off. They had been welded back on.

If it has negative camber for sure the lower bushings are toast. Don't mess around. New lowers, offset uppers and good strut rod bushings. I took my strut rods and cut the threaded ends off. Turn them down the ends a touch on the lathe and connect with moly tubing. Make them 3/8" shorter. Pulls the lower arm forward slightly increasing caster. Cheap, strong, light, easy. This combined with offset upper bushings (forward location) will usually get acceptable alignment results, done many.
Doug

Moog makes offset bushings for A bodies too.

What I'm up against.