When I got the rebuild parts for my 47RE, the transmission shop gave me a non waved snap ring to replace the existing wave type snap ring on the front direct clutch. I had about a hundred things going through my mind at the time and just want to confirm I'm installing it properly.

As I recall they said I should have about .030" clearance with the flat type snap ring installed. Does this sound correct to you guys?

I tried calling them but they are closed today and I'm looking to button this rebuild up this weekend. Thanks for the help as always guys! -Trent

***Update***

I found that with the "upgraded" selective snap ring, clearance was about.046" which I beleive is to lose.

Anyhow, while researching I came across a diesel site that indicated you could add an additional clutch and steel if you utilized a rear (forward) clutch apply plate instead of the front (direct) clutch backing plate. Doing this requires use of the wave snap ring however. Clearance was about .100" which is within spec according to the ATSG manual. Getting the snap ring in for this mod however is a bit tight.

Long story short, I'm mostly pleased with the outcome. I wish I could have thrown out the waved snap ring but on the brighter side ended up with an extra clutch and steel in there by luck of having the spare parts laying around.

The good news is, if the wave snap ring does break in the future, I won't have to fight removing it which may be a bit rough otherwise. In that aspect, it's a win win.

For anyone who cares, here's the pics from the site I came across...

We did this back in the 70's, maybe that's where Turbo Action 17299 plate idea came from.

Does look similar.

I'll have to see how the interchange with a 727 goes in the future. Apparently it's possible to go from 4 clutches to 7 using this plate. I may have tried for 6 this time around but was just using what I had laying around. Next build I may plan for 6 or 7 though.

For reference, here's a quote from the original post I found...

"Upgrading this pack is really simple, you can use stock .085" thick frictions and steels and fit 1 extra friction and steel for a total of (5).
Or you can buy stock .070" steels and .065" frictions and fit a total of (6) frictions and (6) steels. If you really want to go extreme, you can fit (7) of the super thin alto frictions and (7) kolene .068" steels but those parts alone will run around $110."

As you add more frictions to the clutch you add capacity and with that harshness. Unless you are going to do some real serious hauling four is more than adequate, 5 is extra insurance. As a suggestion don't attempt to grind any material from the area around the snap ring trying to get a flat or othe type snap ring re - the plate you are using will break the ends off. That plate was designed to be compressed in the other direction and in a different way using that large radius against the Belleville plate.

I always wondered how the plates reduced mass would handle the heat. The steels toward the pressure plate tend to show more heat.
Doug

Doug - you seeing this in your street racer or drag car? What reaction shaft support/input shaft/rear clutch piston support combo are you using?

I've seen it on a few. Scott's turbo car with the heavy billet drum. My aluminum drum looked good. We use the wide bushing and later 2 ring stator support. Stock piston, 15 springs
Doug

Even in the 60's. Be aware there are two different thickness rear clutch pressure plates.

Doug - you keep the front pack on the tight side for clearance ?

What are those plates pictured out of?

Thick plate is pre-'65 727 rear clutch front pressure plate (pre-wavy snap ring to retain the Belleville) thin plate is later (used with wavy snap ring).

Usually around .060" on a 4 plate.
Doug

The good news is, if the wave snap ring does break in the future, I won't have to fight removing it which may be a bit rough otherwise. In that aspect, it's a win win.

On diesel builds normally the wave snap rings are fine from what i have read they are used so you get a smoother engagement, where i had problems with the snap ring was on the overdrive unit (holds the 800 pound spring) it broke in around 8 pieces because of the wave, still held in there but when i changed the fluid i found a piece of it stuck to the magnet in the pan, still worked fine for a couple more years till i pulled it apart for a rebuild. My trans was a 48re but they are very close to the 47re, mine was the first year and had alot of the parts carried over from the 47re. The 47re are a very strong trans as they hold up to quite a bit of tourque on built diesels.

IN A 727 PRO TRANS WHAT ARE THE LITTLE RED RUBBERS USED FOR IN THE FRONT CLUTCH ?