I am in the market for a 24 foot tag trailer. I fund some good deals on fully loaded trailers made by Luck, Cargo Craft and United. Do any of you have any positive or negative information on any of them? I do not know anyone that has one.

Thanks,

Raul

I just placed an order for a 26 foot United trailer from a friend 6 weeks ago. Hopefully it will be done soon and I will be picking it up in Indiana to save a few bucks. I sold my 24 foot Hailmark trailer to a friend

I have owned 2 United trailers over the years. They were good middle of the road trailers IMO.

When I went to buy my first 24' tag, Bruce Litton talked me into a 26' one and that was the best advise I got on that sale and was really glad I got the 26 footer.

2-3 years later I was upgrading to a 40' united goose. Trailers are never big enough.

Went to buy a 24' got a 26' and now wish I had a 28'. You are right never big enough.

I know it's not what you asked.... but if they cannot do a 16" wheel option, I'd pass. Much better tire selection. My life in the desert with trailer tires in the 15" arena has proven you'll be on the "two year and throw them away" program.

How big is your car... myself I feel that a
24' is too small unless you only pull just a
car.. by the time I put my car in and some
equipment your out of space.. I started out
with a 26' and that was barely big enough..
but that was with a golf cart also.. and my
car is small... now I pull a 43' fifth wheel
rig with a small LQ

Get 16" wheels and tires, do not consider 15" wheels you will regret it if you do get one with 15" wheels because they do not have enough weight carrying capacity.

Bruce Litton sold nothing but 16" wheels and tires on his united trailers.

At the same time my buddy bought a haulmark 24' with 15" wheels. We traveled together to many races. He blew many tires on that trailer and I got stuck helping him change them on the side of the road 3 times, that sucks!! We had the same stuff in our trailers and mine was 2' longer and I never blew any tires. His trailer did not have any fenders left on it.

Got to thank Bruce Litton for that for not selling the cheapest trailer he could.

One time we got to a race and my buddies rear tire on his rear engine dragster caved through the plywood floor in his trailer. Come to find out his floor supports underneath were 24" on center and the floor supports were 18OC on my united. Less supports means lighter trailer but there is a limit if your gonna haul cars.

My old trailer was overloaded (3500 pound axles) by time I loaded the car, alcohol, quad, and spare parts. In pa with lots of racing and out of state trips my 15 inch tires would last 4-5 years before issues. On my new trailer (5000 pound axles) it was only 400.00 to upgrade to 16 inch wheels and tires so that was a no brainer.

I got lucky on my 26' trailer.. I had ordered
it but didnt know it was gonna come with 15"
wheels.. but it was also suppose to be a 24'
trailer.. when I went to pick it up at the
plant in Indiana it was a 26' with 16" wheels..
they offered to change it but I had them leave
it as is.. worked out great.. because they lowered
the price and I got a nicer trailer

I bought a 26' and wish I would have bought a 28'...now that I have the longer B-body cars, you need the extra room!

I'll comment on the tires too. If you go 16", you'll probably run the Goodyear G614's, as they are speed rated to 75 mph. If it's new anyway, might as well go to the 17.5 wheels with G114 Goodyears, about the same price. They are speed rated to 75 mph (All the Chinese and Michelin's are 62 mph), H load rated, and the same overall diameter as the 16". Probably the first and last tire you will ever buy for it!

As far as size, whatever you buy will be too small. I'd go at least 28' with a generator cabinet. Can always add it later. If you bring the wife and/or kids, A/C and a bathroom is always nice! In floor winch option and E-track type tie down strips makes life easy as well.

Biggest "options" to consider are 16" centers (walls, celing and Floors) 16" tires, next are 48" side door, Gen door and any lighting your are considering. it will be cheaper in the long run to have the factory wire it for 110V ( lights and outlets)

I also added the mouse hole so its ready for my winch, extra electrical outlets, outside outlet, and had 4 speakers, and an antenna, and stereo box so everything is hidden. Gotta have a stereo to hear the pa in some tracks if you part far out. options are pretty cheap during the build.

They are HUGE money down under, this is all I have.

Thanks for the information. I will tow the trailer with a 2016 Ram 1500 with a Hemi. I don't want to over do it with a big trailer. I don't carry much to the races and a 24 footer will work. I already decided on 6000 or 7000 pound axles and 16 inch tires. The guys I race with told me the horror stories of having 15 inch tires especially driving in 100 degree summer heat here in the desert. I have decided that the trailer needs to have an escape door. Sounds like a United trailer is a good choice. There is a 2013 United for sale near me, and I should be able to upgrade to 16 inch wheels. I race a 1976 Aspen, do not plan to get a bigger car.

Raul

Most trailers in North America are built by Menonites in Indiana. They pretty much have the market sewn up but by the same token, have to compete with each other. They must pay their workers peanuts because you'd be hard pressed to build one yourself for what they sell for. Sure, you can build a piece of crap that looks home built for less but to build something that looks comparable will cost you almost as much, not to mention your time.

Maybe you should look at that as a business opportunity down under !!

I love my Continental Cargo 28' with cabinets (racers package) and 8000lbs axles. Plan on adding a winch or driver door for ease of loading. It been on many 1200-1500 mile trips with no issues. Just grease the bearings and check tire pressure. People forget that a trailers need maintenance also. If you go with a 24' look at a V-nose that your cabinets can be made in. It will still give you 24' floor space.

The tires are available for 16" wheels are much taller than the standard 15" stuff. Many trailers with 16's are built with a larger wheel well or sit higher from the factory because of it. Don't buy a trailer with 15's and expect to just bolt 16's on without some work.

FWIW, I worked for a guy who hauled high-end cars enclosed: 1 in the truck (GMC7000/Oleynik box) & 24' enclosed trailer. Wasn't unusual to be carrying a million $ worth of cars to Pebble Beach or cross-country.
His trailer had 16" centers, electric winch, no lights (or anything) mounted to the ceiling, and he ran Cooper tires. Steel-frame trailers with butcher-block-like wood floors, but otherwise as light as it could be. Many times I cursed the lack of a left-side door but as the skinny guy, I got in/out of cars OK if necessary. As I recall, the trailers had 3-4 flat tires during their lifespans from punctures. Trailers came out of KY.
Every million miles, he'd replace the trailer. I recall some of the roads in Calif being bad enough that you'd hit your head on the cab ceiling - that's 1 reason for the no-ceiling-fixture rule, rough roads that could knock stuff loose. The closer centers kept the walls from wrinkling.

1. I pulled a 24' Interstate enclosed, with a car much lighter than yours in it, around the Mid-Atlantic area with a half ton Dodge with a 360 for a year or 2. Never again. The trailer was fine. The half ton truck with a small block was not. Got into a diesel dually and it was night and day. Nice to be able to relax a bit, not have to be up on the wheel and watching the mirrors the whole time, and not being worn out when you get to where you're going.

2. Finding a nice used mid or higher range unit and letting someone else take the depreciation hit will save you some money and/or allow you to get into a better quality, better equipped trailer and stay within budget. Hard to find those sometimes though.

3. The minimum options would be some cabinets and cupboards, radio and/or sound system of some sort so you can listen to the PA or tunes, a bench or countertop, 120v lighting inside, outside if you can swing it, and a good winch with a decent 12v system to run it.