Adding comp engineering frame connectors and have to cut the torque box's to weld the outside flange on,Do the torque box's become not an issue because i'm tieing the frames togather,In other words if i completely remove the torque box's does it matter-Steve

Keeping the torque boxes will only help once the frame connectors are installed...

I have both...

-Michael

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Do the torque box's become not an issue because i'm tieing the frames togather,In other words if i completely remove the torque box's does it matter

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It matters. You want to keep the torque boxes and add the frame connectors. They both contribute to chassis strength. I would cut the frame connectors to fit the torque boxes rather than cut the torque boxes.

I had to cut a slot in my torque boxes to slide the US Cartool subframe connectors up into place. Then I welded the subframe connectors and then welded the slot I had cut in the boxes to the connectors too. Here's a shot before I did any grinding to dress up the welds.

Later, I sealed all the welds with 50 year black roof and flashing caulking and coated the bottom with Resto Rick's undercoating. It looks a lot better now than it does in this pic.

I want to install torque boxes and frame rail connectors as well. Can these be installed on a rotisserie? or a lift?

Tack everything in place while the car is supported on jack stands. This ensuresthe car stays in its static mode. You can then put it on a rotisserie or lift to do the final welding.

It is a challenge to weld it while up on jack stands, on your back, with gravity pulling your molten puddle the opposite way you want it too, but it can be done. I used 12-ton jack stands under the front control arms and the rear end to simulate the resting load on the chassis. They allow the car to be raised pretty high up in the air. The stands were moved after welding/ undercoating in this pic, so I could finish undercoating the rest of the undercarrige. To the untrained eye, they now look like part of the original framework.

Another view...

The final job on that looks great JBC426.

I welded t boxes and connectors in my Cuda a couple years back on my back. It sucked.

I now have a lift and it is wonderful. I am in the middle of doing the same to my Super Bee and it is a night and day difference. I actually LIKE to go out and work with it up in the air!

I think I'd like to seam seal my welds as you did JBC and try to get it a little less noticeable. I am painting the underside though, so it might be a little tougher to pull off. Heck, I don't know... the more I think about it, the more I think undercoating would just make my life easier. Don't ever have to worry about nicks under the Cuda, and it's nice.

PAINT IT BLACK- When you welded your torgue boxes and connectors were you concerned about the body flexing before you welded? Maybe a body won't flex much if on a lift, but I think so.

Thanks, sometimes I would just lie under the car and admire how beautiful the undercarrige came out....lol It's true. Now, if I can just get the top of the car to look as good, I'll be happy.

My main concern was to match the exsisting, sound factory undercoating as best I could. The 50 year black, paintable roof flashing and gutter sealer did fill some unsightly pits and holes in the weld seam as well as smooth out some less than perfect spots, but it was mainly to seal out water, sound and exhaust etc.

Resto Ricks undercoating and a Shultz gun allowed me to almost perfectly match the factory finish except where the factory stuff was really heavily oversprayed. Rick can match it perfectly, but he is the Master Blaster! His products and advice rock.

You know all the subframes that don't weld to you floor pans(like Hotchkis)? The instructions are very adamant about welding them in with the car resting on all 4 tires. I wonder whats different about these laser cut ones where the US Car Tool's website shows it done on a rotisery. I wonder what the difference between the 2 is. I understand easier installation, but who cares about that if it doesn't function properly?

Just my 2 cents

BTW- I cant wait to get these on my Belvedere!

I think common sense would dictate that ANY frame connector be tacked in while the car is in its normal stance. The rotisserie welding would then simplify and improve the final welding.

I've always questioned that if you have frame sag in between the wheels if it wasn't better to raise the car in the middle a little bit and then weld in connectors. Perhaps more of an issue with convertibles? This is just my own idea on the subject, not sure if these cars actually have any sag or not, never actually tried measuring it yet.

My 69 GTX convert had some sag evidenced by a very tight door gap on the passagener side. When I unloaded the front suspension I pulled the gap out a bit so I welded by connectors in that way. I called US Car Tool and they confirmed this was the right thing to do.

Steve