Quote:

---

Quote:

---

and another

---

? Your attachement doesnt work.

---

ya guess their too big, i'll reduce them and post them later. their within the right size, no idea why they won't work, i'll re-do them later tonite.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

and another

---

? Your attachement doesnt work.

---

ya guess their too big, i'll reduce them and post them later. their within the right size, no idea why they won't work, i'll re-do them later tonite.

---

What are they? *hopes its a test piece with Rust-oelum clear coat on to show its perfection* i wonder

Quote:

---

alright... so ive read through some of this thread, and would like to go about painting my car. Can someone just give me the steps on what to do. All the steps are pretty much muffled in different pages. So if someone could put them together in one post, that would be great!

---

this might help:

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...0432b6d5fe08df8

but i highly getting some beer, and coffee, and reading the whole post, you could start with coffee, then beer, or vs.

Quote:

---

charger, your car's looking good but i guarantee you you could get more shine out of that paintjob with some more wetsanding and a good buffer.

---

there's no doubt in my mind that i could pull off pro-quality paint, but there's one problem > i'm driving the car too much!!!! keep in mind i drive the car alot and hard, to the cottage, practially every day, so paint to me is'nt a huge concern, plus i don't have the time to buff between my many hobbies and wife/baby, i just want to enjoy the car. i'm happy with it the way it is, and in a few years the paint will be redone, going sideways on a dirt road at 60MPH does'nt treat any paint really good !!!! i've learned to accept minor flaws and imperfect paint, i used to be a total perfectionst, but my charger has some flaws, sure it's not as shiny as a ferarri enzo, sure the chrome is'nt perfect, but i like it, and i enjoy driving the car alot, if i went all out painting it myself, i'd be too paranoid to drive the car as much as i do now. since i've had the car, basically on the road from oct 2005 until now i've put on about 15000MI+!!!!! that's usually over 14500MI more then the average mopar garage queen sees in a year, and i've only been driving mine for 7 months and there was a winter there somewhere, but it was sooo mild i drove it all winter when the roads were dry, in Toronto, Canada!!!! and by the way, at 120MPH, it's just a orange blur, shiny paint or not!!!!

Quote:

---

looks really good to me. I feel the same way, if i'm going to fix up my old truck, I want to be able to drive it and use it and not have to worry about the thousands of dollars I spent to make it look good.
I'm almost done with my test hood. Only one more coat to put on tomorrow, wetsand it with 1500 and then polish. I'll probably post pictures later this week. Then I'll start getting the truck ready for paint. This is the BEST thread I have ever come across. Just want to say thanks to 69charger for making a lot of people's dreams of driving a nice looking vehicle and being proud of doing it themselves.

---

no problem, hope i helped someone out. the feel good about doing it yourself is the best part. sharing it with others is even better, from the interest in this thread, it's obvious there's a need to stop the high costs of painting, lets all come together, together we can beat this!!!!

Quote:

---

i have some brush on paint stripper, you think it would be easier so use some stripper and take off the old paint, than to sand it?

---

from my expirence absoultly a big NO on that, messy, stinks, removes skin, ect... you'll actually create more body work for yourself.

Quote:

---

Admac- using full strength coats, I'd be worried about the paint drying completely. One benefit to the thinned paint is that it dries faster all the way through. I have done a single coat of black rustoleum pro and mineral spirits, and after a day it was rock hard and unscratchable (as are the results of others here). But where I spilled black paint here and there at full strength, to this day I can slice it with my nail. I think when it goes on too thick, the top portion can dry before the paint underneath has had a chance to evaporate the solvents, and it stays soft indefinately since the top layer, which might be hard, is sitting on uncured soft paint underneath it..

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Admac- using full strength coats, I'd be worried about the paint drying completely. One benefit to the thinned paint is that it dries faster all the way through. I have done a single coat of black rustoleum pro and mineral spirits, and after a day it was rock hard and unscratchable (as are the results of others here). But where I spilled black paint here and there at full strength, to this day I can slice it with my nail. I think when it goes on too thick, the top portion can dry before the paint underneath has had a chance to evaporate the solvents, and it stays soft indefinately since the top layer, which might be hard, is sitting on uncured soft paint underneath it..

---

interesting. you would think that it would be formulated to dry properly at the mixture it comes out of the can. i'll keep that in mind.

one more thing i am finding is that if you ARE having trouble with bubbles, the best way to get rid of them (and easier than trying to knock them down with the roller) is to use one of the foam brushes that you bought for nooks and crannies dipped in paint. just lightly go over the bubble areas and they're all gone, then the "brush marks" will flow out on their own over time.

---