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Hey. Do as JEFFS says. It works. I would appreciate anyone out there to tell me how to post the pics. of my results. I have a digital camera, the right c.d. on my computer etc. but can't seem to post. Please bear with me as I am a computer idiot, and my 15 year old wiz has better things to do. The easier the better for me. Thanks

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I spent way more than 50$.. maybe around 200 at least. That is because I had to buy tools Seems like everytime I would buy a socket set the next bolt I would need to take off would need a different type of socket not in my set -_-

-Serpent

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Your in the same boat as me, but i have done body work before. Same boat meaning tool wise. I have done body work on other cars but to such an extent as to this car, then again this car isnt as bad you make yours sound. My car has virtually no rust and only a few dings.

I'm still cracking up about you using the HD Parking Lot, i'f i'm right their garage which isnt really a garage but is just a parking lot underneath right? They allow you to do that? what about at night times no vandals? Good work none the less.

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haha, ya.. it is going to be rough... and mostly because they dont "allow" those types of things to take place on their grounds. When I primed it the goof patrol caught me while I was taping up my windows (newspaper and ducktape haha) and I already sprayed one side of the car. They didn't stop.. when I noticed them drive by me I just pretended I was reading the newspaper advertisement... which happened to be for womens underwear..... worked like a charm I should have taken pictures of my car taped up.. good stuff.. But yes it is a covered lower level with good air flow and is dry. Weather has been good the last few days with temps about 70-74 and humidity levels around 35% around 5pm.

Game plane:
Arrive early on a saturday morning and strip my car of mirrors, lights, seals, and window sweeps.

Thin paint and roll like there is no manana.

After first coat take a break for 7 hours... buy somethign at HD so they don't tow me right off the bat...

About 4pm do another coat and hang out for a bit.. wait until 11pm and drive home.

Do another coat next day or next saturday.

This should be interesting..

The alternative is to do it in the apartment parking lot... but I don't know if I can handel all of the people bothering me about me and my roller haha .. I might just do it here though.

To make the situation worse- this is my daily driver.

There my words.

-Serpent

PS.. not sure if you guys checked out Krylon but they have bee around for ever and make rust prevention paints too. Not sure if they have quarts and gallons. I used to use it on my bicycles when I lived in FL.

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Serpent -

FWIW, it sounds like you're already commited but...

I would STRONGLY recommend that you try this method on a test piece first. There is definitely a learning curve to this technique, and unless you've at least tried it out once on something else, ANYTHING else, I think you're going to be unhappy with the results - especially the way you're trying to accomplish it. Don't let all the efforts you've invested so far (time, money and energy doing the prep work) go to waste. If you cant find something to try it out on first (a junkyard door, fender, even an old washer or dryer, ANYTHING...) then do yourself a favor and just work on one section of the car. Hood, fender, even the rear deck lid in your case. Personally, I think a fender is the true test as it has both horizontal and vertical surfaces, creases and curves - a little bit of everything.

JMHO

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I would listen to this man. I'm telling you from experience, i did the same thing as you Serpent, well only that you havent done it yet. I painted my whole cae with no prior experience or a test piece and got my self it to alot of trouble!! Now that i have had experience my new GLOSS WHITE Coat is going on soo smooth, 0 BUBBLES and its laying down excellent with a mirror like finish not to mention Hard as rock and i've only done 1 COAT soo far. The trick like every one has been saying is PUT ON THIN COATS, heres what i've changed from my initial start to now:

A) Instead of having the roller full of paint and then just letting it drip down and then rolling it on to the car (which causes alot of thick spots where the roller first touches) I drain the roller very well so its not completely soaked and then just pressing down somewhat hard get thin coats.

B) Work fast and dont spend 5 MINUTEs on one area trying to get rid of bubbles cuz if you have odorless, atleast in my case, they bubbles are evaporating by themselves and what r left over i just go over with the roller slightly.

C) In my case i had to keep rethining the paint in the bucket (i mixed the paint and mineral spirit in a bucket then pour it into a tray) Because it would dry and slowly get thicker dunno why but its not that extreme.

d) Last but not least from experience, learned mixtakes and a boat load of useless/pointless labor, take your time, go slowly cuz if you try to rush it boy, get ready for alot of hard work.

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Okay roller freaks, I just tried
my first test with gloss black
pro-rusto-lium. I got it all drippiddy
wet just like 69 said, just enough
to get the roller full, ONE drop of
fish eye remover. 30 minutes it's
very dry and I can't scrape it with
my finger nail, not tacky at all.

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Serpent -

FWIW, it sounds like you're already commited but...

I would STRONGLY recommend that you try this method on a test piece first. There is definitely a learning curve to this technique, and unless you've at least tried it out once on something else, ANYTHING else, I think you're going to be unhappy with the results - especially the way you're trying to accomplish it. Don't let all the efforts you've invested so far (time, money and energy doing the prep work) go to waste. If you cant find something to try it out on first (a junkyard door, fender, even an old washer or dryer, ANYTHING...) then do yourself a favor and just work on one section of the car. Hood, fender, even the rear deck lid in your case. Personally, I think a fender is the true test as it has both horizontal and vertical surfaces, creases and curves - a little bit of everything.

JMHO

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I am right there with you man. I loved your beer fridge project and learned a lot from it. Since I have removed all of the ground effects I was going to test on them first- on the patio of my apartment. The ground effects are a combo of long smooth surfaces, curves and creases... it is going to be a pain. I wouldn't mind getting my paint in a spray can form for the ground effects. I got off work early today so going to go experiment

Great advice- I will be following it ^_^

-Serpent

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Serpent -

FWIW, it sounds like you're already commited but...

I would STRONGLY recommend that you try this method on a test piece first. There is definitely a learning curve to this technique, and unless you've at least tried it out once on something else, ANYTHING else, I think you're going to be unhappy with the results - especially the way you're trying to accomplish it. Don't let all the efforts you've invested so far (time, money and energy doing the prep work) go to waste. If you cant find something to try it out on first (a junkyard door, fender, even an old washer or dryer, ANYTHING...) then do yourself a favor and just work on one section of the car. Hood, fender, even the rear deck lid in your case. Personally, I think a fender is the true test as it has both horizontal and vertical surfaces, creases and curves - a little bit of everything.

JMHO

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I would listen to this man. I'm telling you from experience, i did the same thing as you Serpent, well only that you havent done it yet. I painted my whole cae with no prior experience or a test piece and got my self it to alot of trouble!! Now that i have had experience my new GLOSS WHITE Coat is going on soo smooth, 0 BUBBLES and its laying down excellent with a mirror like finish not to mention Hard as rock and i've only done 1 COAT soo far. The trick like every one has been saying is PUT ON THIN COATS, heres what i've changed from my initial start to now:

A) Instead of having the roller full of paint and then just letting it drip down and then rolling it on to the car (which causes alot of thick spots where the roller first touches) I drain the roller very well so its not completely soaked and then just pressing down somewhat hard get thin coats.

B) Work fast and dont spend 5 MINUTEs on one area trying to get rid of bubbles cuz if you have odorless, atleast in my case, they bubbles are evaporating by themselves and what r left over i just go over with the roller slightly.

C) In my case i had to keep rethining the paint in the bucket (i mixed the paint and mineral spirit in a bucket then pour it into a tray) Because it would dry and slowly get thicker dunno why but its not that extreme.

d) Last but not least from experience, learned mixtakes and a boat load of useless/pointless labor, take your time, go slowly cuz if you try to rush it boy, get ready for alot of hard work.

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Muhahahaaarrrr... I learned a lot from reading your previous posts! haha Things like not jumping right in and doing the whole car- like you mentioned haha A couple of your posts made me cringe... especially when you broke out the wagner and were talking about fence painting haha Not that it is bad or anything- but the equivalent of my HD painting scheme.. it just rocks This is probably the best thread I have read on the internet because of the contributions of the users. And Bakuryu, Thanks for the additional information in your last post. I will try your method first and see how it works out. I figure it will probably be better try start off learning thin than to pile on the paint and maybe have to do some heavy sanding.

There my words
-Serpent

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wow, that's funny, home depot parking lot.....you got balls!!!! i would try to find a garage, it'll make it alot eaiser, you could just do 3 coats, wetsand, and then 2 more so you got a good base of paint, and then the final wetsanding and polishing you could take your time with while you drive the car. maybe go door to door and ask people if you could rent their garage for a few days, anything to get the car indoors while you paint, otherwise you;ll have bugs/dirt/hair in your paint like mad. and trust me you will have this problem, like when you wash your car, guarenteed to have a bird [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] on it within 5 mins, and rain within a few hours!!!! definetly practice on something, does'nt have to be metal, just a smooth non porus surface, so you learn how to work the paint properlly.

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Affirmative, I have balls.... ^_^ I would really like to "rent" a garage or something but there isn't much around here.. mostly apartments. I am still kind of new (almost 2 years now) and just work, come home, and sleep. I will keep my eye out for any pterodactyl in the area.

Have you tested out the clear coat yet? After seeing the results from other users I am not sure if it will be really required. JeffS' results look great with black.

There my words
-Serpent

PS thanks for posting the info to the thread and hanging around to answer questison and give input!!

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I started yesterday! Two tone paint, one is flat black rustoleum professional, other is Ultrahyde (the only rust paint they would tint at my home depot)

Which will be turquoise

some things to remember

1. I suck

2. For once in Arizona's history it rained while I was doing this

3. Im OUTSIDE!!!

4. Its windy

all that said, I couldnt be happier!!!

AWESOME!

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LOL, "for once in ARIZONA history it rained" hahaha thats classic, good luck to you man. Looks like alot more people are in the same boat me and HD-GARAGE-GUY are in, No GARAGE LOL..join the boat.