73 Challenger Brake Upgrade
#2255598
02/18/17 07:15 PM
02/18/17 07:15 PM
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Posts: 35 San Antonio.TX
JohnGlenn
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Some of you that halped me out during my issue, Brake Help thread, this is what I did. Figured I would put it all in one place for easy viewing.
I upgraded my front discs to 03 Cobra disks, basically the 13" setup sold by Doctor Diff, who by the way is awesome! He tried to help me sort my world, even though I didn't buy from him. Honestly because I'm cheap, and I wanted the challenge.
After the above issues, which I'm almost positive were caused by crap vaccuum, I decided to upgrade everything. Enter oddball rear brakes and 03 Cobra hydroboost.
If you have questions, just fire away, the project is done now and I'm posting so others laugh and nit pick.
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Re: 73 Challenger Brake Upgrade
[Re: JohnGlenn]
#2255604
02/18/17 07:35 PM
02/18/17 07:35 PM
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Posts: 35 San Antonio.TX
JohnGlenn
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So, heres the basic numbers. I was going to provide coords from my DRO, but it started skipping, and I wasn't going to stop to clean it. You can duplicate the way i did, layout dye, punch a spindle center, and create arcs useing calipers. Find what looks good with known bolt hole spacing and center punch, drill on center punch marks.
I used the old bearings when i set it up on my lathe, worked, but i was planning to replace them anyway. Your going to need carbide tooling to cut on the hub, that thing is HARD. Also, at the bottom is a comparison of the SN95 hub vs the cut down E body. I was concerned about strength, until I saw how thick the e body hub really was.
Basic Drawing and DimensionsRemove factory brakes, cut disk from "hub" with plasma cutter.Place "hub" in lathe on centers, clean up plasma cut, turn hub snout OD to accept mustang disk, I also faced off the mounting surface.
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Re: 73 Challenger Brake Upgrade
[Re: JohnGlenn]
#2255608
02/18/17 07:48 PM
02/18/17 07:48 PM
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 35 San Antonio.TX
JohnGlenn
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Next layout the brackets, and cut. I used some thin aluminum to layout everything based on spindle center, then once i had a good grasp I used it for a template to center punch what would become my brackets.
Previous post I forgot to reinstall. So here ya go. Interestingly enough, I checked runout prior to lathe work and after. Out of round was within .010, surface was within .007 after cleaning with wire brush. After lathe work both tolerances were underboth brackets were cut from 6061 T6 aluminum I had laying around, it was 1x4 bar stock.milled down to .757 thick, as perscribed in the drawing, also rounded edges a little by pivoting on center of holes in my vice, sorry, don't have a rotary table. Also, test fit.
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Re: 73 Challenger Brake Upgrade
[Re: JohnGlenn]
#2255623
02/18/17 08:12 PM
02/18/17 08:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 35 San Antonio.TX
JohnGlenn
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Rears are next, didn't have much to start with, so lots of part #'s. Here's what I used:
Rotors - 03 Cobra Mustang, Duralast 54036 x2 $80, bolt holes are too small, so you'll have to open them up for it to sit flat.
Calipers - 01 Jag S-Type, similar to mustang, but more available. Pick and pull $20.
Hoses - 01 Camero outer's, Duralast 78537 x2 $24 (Metric Bubble flare ends)
Brake line -M10-1, 4 ft $7. To replace from center hose to disk hoses, no luck making bubble flares here, easier and cheaper to buy the dang line and redo center hose flares.
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Re: 73 Challenger Brake Upgrade
[Re: JohnGlenn]
#2255844
02/19/17 02:31 AM
02/19/17 02:31 AM
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Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 35 San Antonio.TX
JohnGlenn
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Now for Hydroboost.
01-03 Cobra Mustang, got the booster, master and prop valve off ebay: $114 shipped
Brake Lines: Don't have the reciept, but less than $20 Dorman 071340BP (3/16 double flare to m10x1 bubble flare adaptor, for front line) Dorman 785-434 (7/16 female double flare to 3/16 male double flare, rear line to wilwwod prop valve) Dorman 785-462 (1/4 tube nut, front line into above adapter) 3/16 double flare line and fittings, dependant on how your brakes are currently setup.
Hydraulic Lines: From Summit $154.73 RUS-620421 $15.97 X4 (90 hose end) RUS-648080 $11.97 (-6 to M18x1.5 o-ring adapter) RUS-670530 $4.97 (-6 to M16mmx1.5 adapter, also requires Dorman 82540 nylon sealing ring $5) RUS-632620 $50.97 (PowrFlex Hose) AER-FBM2964 $8.97 (flare adapter for PS pump) RUS-648010 $13.97 (o-ring 1/2-20 adapter for steering box) I tried some cheap junk yard alternatives, a main hose from a 97 sunfire would get close, just needing some bending and a double flare for PS pump. But, the hydro to steering box hung me up, it's 3/8 down to 5/16 with an o-ring seal. It would have been cheaper just to go with the above summit order, way less headache.
Mounting: 4x5x1.5 material of your choosing, I used a sandwich of aluminum, one inch thick, plus another .5 plate. 4 x 5/16x2.5 inch bolts.
General Idea: The Ford booster from mount face to eyelet is 1.5 inch longer than the factory booster. Also, if mounted right side up, that would expose the lines, and generally ugly it up, so I flipped the master and mounted it upside down.
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