My buddy (540challenger here on the boards) let me use his garage over the winter so I can get this project moving. Motor is back from the machine shop and I am getting it ready to go. Hopefully I can make it by today to seal the intake manifold up (it's just sitting on top in those pics) and start working on custom building the supercharger and alternator brackets.

Just want to thank everyone here for all the help in all of my threads over the past few months. I'm sure there will be more questions, but I never would have gotten this far without these boards.

To think just in early summer this Ebody was putting around with a .480 lift flat tappet cam, stock LA heads and a 670cfm holley.

Here are the specs of the build for anyone who hasn't seen it in one of my other 20 threads LOL

1970 340 block bored .030 over, factory forged crank, Hughes stud girdle, Eagle H beam rods with the upgraded ARP2000 rod bolts, Speed Pro forged pistons with a small dish cut into them by my machinist. SCR should be around 9.2:1

Top end consists of ported W2 single pattern econo heads from David Dean's old car, flowed just under 300CFM at .600 lift. Solid roller at .609 lift 242/246@.050 112LSA, port matched Indy intake

D1SC procharger
Front mount intercooler
FItech 1200 fuel injection
A1000 fuel system
15 gallon fuel cell
727A/ProTorque converter
8 3/4 3.91 rear
It'll all be run on E85 pump gas

That should be a fun time, keep an eye on the plugs for awhile to make sure your getting good fuel distribution with that Fitech.

I have that same Intake on my 416 but cut for fuel injectors.

Who's lifters are you running? Love the blackout look.

Very nice! I'll be interested how well the Fitech works. Keep us posted.

Nice,and still a 340

BAD340fish, I definitely will. I don't have a lot of tuning experience but I am going to try to find someone local who has a good reputation with aftermarket fuel management and have them tune it on the dyno. From there, I'll probably try to tweak things on my own and keep an eye on the plugs for a bit. I just don't trust myself with getting the baseline tune down and I haven't learned enough about FItech to know how well it is going to adjust on its own in a boosted application.

I am hoping that because of the blower that fuel distribution won't be too much of an issue, hopefully I'm right because it is a big single plane and I don't have any room for a spacer under the TB.

One thing I am worried about right now is just the use of E85. I really want to use it because it is a lot cheaper than race fuel and it is available at a lot of pumps here. It should be a lot safer to run with 10-12PSI or boost than 93.

I read some horror stories about guys having to clean their injectors/flush their fuel systems out all the time from it gumming up even if not left sitting for too long. Once I get the tune down I would hate to have to be checking plugs every time I take the damn thing out just incase an injector was clogging up.
. I'm hoping that is only the case when not running an E85 friendly stabilizer. I may try to see if I could swap the pulley out and store a milder/low boost pump gas tune for the winter so I don't have to keep E85 in it when it may sit for a while. Over the summer I think I'll be driving it enough to keep fresh E85 in the cell. The cycling of gasoline through the fuel system during the winter may help to keep the injectors/lines clean as well.




BALLS, thanks! It took some long deliberation to decide on doing a blackout theme in the engine bay. I loved the old hemi orange look I had, but I think this will look great with all the polished aluminum/stainless steel blower parts. they are Comp solid rollers, I'll get the part number.

made a little progress with the blower bracket. I'm going to take the SD concepts front bracket I bought used here on the forums and modify it to be a little more rigid by cutting out a back piece (the cardboard template) similar to what sbc procharger brackets are like. I also am going to try to run my Dayco tensioner on it as it seems like a much nicer piece than the tensioner that I bought the bracket with.

I'm going to try to make the whole bracket as rigid as possible, then combined with the Dayco tensioner on the slack side and an idler pulley on the tension side I think I'll have enough belt wrap and constant tension to avoid any slip issues (all without having to have massive tension on the belt like most manually tensioned setups I've seen).

I would have been a lot happier if the sd concepts crank pulley was a 12 rib but I think I can do what I want with the 8 if the bracket/tensioner setup works well. I'm only looking for 10-12psi , at least until I can save up for a plan B in case the block decides it's time to retire.

I can make you a 12 rib pulley. I can also help you mod your sdconcepts.com bracket. let me know if I can be of any assistance.

Jerry

Thanks Jerry! I may take you up on that at some point. The 8 rib pulley I purchased from you is a beautiful piece, since I won't be running too much boost I think it may work out for me when using the Dayco tensioner.

Just curious, did your blower bracket originally have a second plate behind it or did it just bolt to the head via spacers? I had a procharger setup on a 96 Impala SS that only used one single bracket with a support bar going to the head and bolted into the water pump and never had any major issues with it. I figure I could have probably done the same with this bracket, but I have a spare piece of .5" aluminum so I figured I might as well build a backing piece like the bracket in the picture I attached.

The setup in your orange car is my dream setup. One day when this setup gets tired/blows up I would love to contact you about helping put together an engine similar to that one.

I'm sure you know about the oil slinger in the gear box on the Procharger. Usually the blue tag is towards the top, then the oil slinger will work. I started with a SDconcepts set-up and switched the procharger brackets moving the blower from the passenger side to the driver's side. If the oil slinger isn't located right it'll take the gears out. That gets spendy as I found out.

That procharger was originally for a different setup (it was on my chevy) so I did re-clock the oil slinger. I was able to get it pretty much dead on at 6 o clock perpendicular to the ground. Tricky little b-ugger to press back in though, I had to put it in the freezer for a few hours.

making progress. Built the back bracket for the procharger, got all the spacing/spacers right and bolted it on. Now I just need to make the tensioner bracket and mount the heavy duty Dayco tensioner where I want it and we should be ready to go!

Can't wait to get this heavy piece of old metal running. Next weekend I'll be working on the tensioner, polishing the blower/brackets/crank pulley, replacing some of the mock-up hardware with nice stuff and hopefully dropping this monstrosity back in the car.

Speaking of monstrosities, this is the alternator bracket I welded up after realizing the 140amp gm 1 wire was too thick to mount directly to the head. This setup works great, but I want weld up something a little cleaner out of a aluminum down the road.



I ordered a 4.75" pulley for the procharger, no idea if that that'll put me on the right track to start with (looking to start out with about 8psi for now) but from my research it seems like I may end up in the ballpark.

Who wants to take bets on power, how long the block will last, 1/4 mile E/T's or how much weight I just added to the car with all this junk on the block ?:-p

Hey guys, more updates (i know, nobody cars about some Frankenstein supercharged old motor build lol).

I set up the blower tensioner bracket and it came out great. Despite the size of the dayco tensioner, I was able to mount it in a location giving me plenty of belt wrap and I think it will be a much better piece than a procharger tensioner. I shimmed the blower pulley .080 and using a straight edge I am pretty sure I am within less than 1/16th of an inch (this is with accounting for the difference in pulley lip widths). Don't have a laser tool, but it's close enough that I'll just run it and see what happens.


Also swung the motor in the other day. I'll take pics once I bolt the trans up and bolt all the blower stuff back on.

Ended up going with a magna fuel 4303 pump. Also got my TTI 1 7/8ths race headers in. They have an LA port design but they actually overlap with my W2 ports pretty well. When I layed the header gaskets down on the ports, there is only a 1/16hth of an inch sliver on the right side of the port where the gasket covered the port. Putting the gaskets up to the headers, the header ports were a slight bit bigger so I don't even think I'll have to do any grinding inside the header to make them work. Ideally I probably should have built adapter flanges to transition the ports better, but with how tight these headers fit that may have become an issue.

On a sad note, I built this setup to hopefully be able to beat a Hellcat so I didn't have to worry about bone stock late model Challengers outshining me.


Now with the Demon the benchmark fell from high 10's to mid 9's, so I guess I'm back to square 1 again LOL

Question for any procharged small block guys that may be following....

What pulley sizes are you running and how much boost is it making on what kind of motor?

I really had no idea where to start. With the 8" crank pulley, procharger recommended starting with a 4.5" pulley to make 10-12 PSI. I wanted to run a little less boost to start with until I can get more experience with the FItech and iron out any kinks in the setup so I purchased a 4.75" pulley hoping it'll make 5-7psi.

I really have no idea if this is even close though. Something tells me I am going to end up with a far smaller pulley, like a 3.75 to make 10-12PSI but maybe I'm wrong.

That's cool take pride in your work , hats one of the reason i'm here on this site to see what's being fab. we as mopar people don't have the available parts so we do what we have to do. get that car running and go hell cat hunting.

I'll give you my advice based on my experience. I help a guy with a 383sbc that had a D1SC. He was running up to 12psi reliably before he had all sorts of belt problems. He started with an 8 rib belt. After going smaller on the top pulley to get up into more boost, the belt started slipping and boost would flat-line. He went with the same pulley combo, but in a 12rib, and got to about 16psi before belt slip. Both instances were with a spring tensioner. We tried a solid tensioner and really gained almost nothing. He decided to go with a cogged belt. That got him up to 23 psi, but the belt would not last more than about 6 all out 1/4 mile passes. This car is mostly a street car, and never had belt failure or even any wear using it on the street. The blower bracket was a 3/4" and 1/2" combo. That bracket was not flexing. We did some investigating, and found the crank was flexing causing the belt issues. We were going to add a snout support, but he through in the towel, and went with turbos.
I don't recall pulley sizes. I would suggest if you are going to have pulleys made, to go larger on the bottom instead of smaller on the top.

Thanks racerX! I am pretty happy with how some of the fab work came out. None of it is what I would have done under ideal circumstances, but I am very limited on both budget and time with this project so i'm just happy it's not a COMPLETE redneck hack job. Maybe just a little LOL I'm saving doing any shop quality work for when I fully restore the car hopefully in 5 or so years. I just need this setup to last me till then. I'd like to do something much more extreme in the future, probably using a late gen Hemi and turbos.

TRENDZ, that sounds like a lot of crank flex! Was it a forged crank?

I'm not sure if this was your friends problem, but I have noticed on every procharged setup I have seen that the factory procharger tensioners are garbage. They barely allow any travel, they bind up and they seem to provide inconsistent tension. This means that if you were getting belt stretch or even crank flex, it's likely that tensioner wouldn't have kept up well. A lot of guys have swapped over to the Dayco tensioner have been able to hit some high boost numbers on just 8 rib belts. It's no surprise to me that he didn't have luck with a manual tensioner either, you lose all the ability to account for belt stretch/bracket flex/crank flex with that. I have a pretty large 8" crank pulley and I don't think this motor could handle more than 12PSI reliably, so I am hoping I won't have to go too small on the crank pulley to get what I need out of it. time will tell though.

I'll get some pics up today but the motor and trans is in, blower bracket all setup. Everything looks great. I'll just be working on the fuel system, plumbing, wiring, piping, welding in sub frame connectors and a few other things today.

Biggest problem I ran into so far was there was no way in hell my TCI trans shield was clearing my TII headers. The easy fix would be to go to a trans blanket, but I just worry about those creating heat issues with it being a street car. Option 2 is to weld some steel plate into the floor from the inside. If I did that, I just have to make sure I can still make my center console work. Welding it in from the underside really isn't an option as I don't want to have to take the trans out again LOL