My wife's hair dresser's husband has a stroker big block 72 Cuda and asked me to install a Hotchkis TVS kit for him PN # 80112. Looks like pretty major installation, but well within my skill level. I also think I should tell him to get the rear leaf spring shackle kit, new axle U bolts, some spring hanger shim plates, and the matching shocks. What I don't know is how long does this installation usually take? The car looks good on the outside, fresh paint and all. But he just bought it last summer, never looked underneath. From what I remember, it wasn't all rotting out, but it is a 40 year old car. I'm guessing between 15 and 20 hours, allowing for rust and whatever fabrication. Am I close? Is this a good kit for the money? I have never had to do any major upgrades like this before. Ask me about going straight...

You already get the new U-bolts for the leaf springs with the kit. I have them.

And it isn't difficult, just time consuming.

I just did a video unboxing my sway bars for my 71.

Its doable in a day if you have a hoist. If not figure damn near another day. I would start at the front and work back from there. Do the frame connectors before you tackle the rear, like with the car sitting at ride height with the weight on the tires as to not "tweak" it permanently when the frame connectors are welded up.

Hotchkis did a complete one on mine. On a hoist at their shop. Guy had done many others.

Took two days with one guy. Would not bid it lower than that.

Mine did not have to weld in new lca sway bar tabs (had factory sway bar tabs). Had to weld rear sway bar brackets and subframe connectors. Have to cut edge of uca frame brackets for uca's. I already had lca poly bushings and we left them in because they were good and already fitted. My car is a so cal car, no no rust. And I've had every bolt they turned off before (more than once).

When I installed my kit I also replaced the lca bushings and the added the lca reinforcing plates.
Not sure how long it took for the whole kit but it was a lot longer than 2 days and I have a lift but I am a bit slow. Not hard just time consuming. It would be a pain without a lift.

Thanks for the advice, guys. I also found out that this was originally a 318 car. Should I have him purchase a set of big block torsion bars for it also? He isn't complaining about bottoming out, but I don't know if I should change them to balance out the suspension.

Times quoted are on my back in the garage:

Subframe connectors I did by myself in 4 hours (Auto Rust Technicians, installed before Hotchkis released their kit).
I did the front end by myself in about 15hours.
I did the rear end with a friend in about 4 hours. Cleaning and mocking up the sway bar mounts for welding took up most of the time.

The Hotchkis kit uses 1.10 torsion bars
http://www.hotchkis.net/product/41-in-1-03-in-forged-torsion-bars-for-mopar-b-and-e-body-models/
They may have actually use 1.03 bars now? It's different on the website.

I use 1.12 TB's from Firm Feel

When he shows up for an evaluation, I will measure the diameter of the torsion bars. Are the leaf springs dependent on engine size or is there just one set when you order the kit?

There is only one set for the Hotchkis leaf springs. Engine size dosen't really matter but ideally you want less weight off the front end as possible. The yellow E-Max Chally the kit was developed on has a 340.

I'm only mentioning engine size because of the extra weight of a big block. I'm pretty sure that this was a factory A/C equipped car, though. Doesn't have it now. How close a trade off would that be? Should I still get heavier t bars for handling? His biggest complaint is fishtailing. Was thinking about moving springs inboard to fit wider tires, but I'm thinking that this kit will give me enough loss of my weekend(s) for now.

I have thought about getting thicker bars as well as I have always felt my car was undersprung. You mess up the balance of the Hotchkis kit in doing so though and that's why I have not changed things out.

I did get their single adjustable shocks and was getting lots of oversteer (fishtailing) at my last track day. I softened the rears and it helped out a lot.

Does the big block have alum heads/ intake or cast iron?
May be another reason why he oversteers too much. Big block torque, heavy front end, and non sticky street tires could cause that

Steel heads. Aluminum intake. Stock Holley carb (no lightweight bowls or billet blocks). I thought that the 318 bars would allow too much roll and cause fishtailing, also. I don't know if Hotchkis tailors their kits by engine/trans/rear combination. A small block aluminum head motor will be substantially lighter than a big block cast iron head piece. You would think that rear leafs and sway bars should change accordingly.

Hotchkis bars are 1.10", site is incorrect.

The 1.10-1.12 or whatever they are that are available would be real good in that car. I would also call Bergmann Auto Craft and see if he has any left, could save the guy a Benji or 2.