Gents, I have a good block to start with. I would like your feedback on the best option for strengthening a stock block for 900+ hp. I know a race block built to the task would be better, but I'm building a stock blcok. I know there are quite a few mfgrs, I'm looking for products you have used and kept the bottom end together until something else gave way. Main caps obviously, steel or aluminum? Girdle worth it? Mfgrs for both? This is another of those issues where I don't want to save a penny and waste a dollar, but don't want to spend bigger $$ when less will do with a margin of safety. Thanks in advance, Merry Christmas.

You're not going to like the answers as stock block and 900hp dont work together. Anything you do is a band aid and will fail. Just a matter of when, not if.....If you want to spend wisely, spend on an aftermarket block.

By the time you pay for a good girdle (BCR) and have it installed plus good machine work on a stock block, you will be a $1000 short of a prepped good block. Plus 900 hp on motor is not easy in a flexing stock block. Save longer and buy a good block.

His race class requires a stock block. You have a center weighted crank right. In another post another member recommended one and it seems you bought one?
Throw all the band aids you can at it, Girdle and a maybe hard block it

Aluminum caps and longest, lightest, strongest rods available. Piston and pin weight at dead minimum. Maybe an SBC wrist pin?

900 horsepower with a stock block is doable but its doable for a limited amount of runs. Besides doing all the band-aids I would recommend finding a good church and Praying as often as possible. Throw salt over your right shoulder, and attend more car shows than races. Good-luck. Oh and PLEASE stay away from detonation and 7500 plus RPM. An engine diaper is also good insurance too.

The BCR full kit girdle with aluminum maincaps seems to be best of current options. Maybe even consider magnesium alloy main caps for even greater vibration damping.

Center weighted crank is a very good idea as well. S/F....Ken M

I know it's probably been asked, but has anyone ever made a bedplate system for the mains (mains/girdle are all one piece)? Like they use on newer cars? I know it would be $$$, but it might be an option. Aluminum rods would help as well

As stated above get ready to spend some money. I started off with the original BCR girdle with the aluminum main caps, It looked so good I really had a hard time putting the oil pan on just covering up such a quality piece. This is NOT a bolt on system . As with any after market main cap install the block must be align bored. Then with the girdle, the bottom of the block [ pan rail ] and main caps must decked to make sure they are flat. The girdle is stud bolted to the pan rail and the girdle is stud bolted to the main caps tying it all together. Acid clean the block before any hard block is installed. This should be done and cured before any machining is done. I don't run anywhere near 900 Hp but it has held up for over 8 years for me

Are starting with the thick main web 230 block?

Answering for the OP here so forgive me if I get it wrong, but he's building a Daytona clone for salt flat racing, and the class requires a stock block from an engine that was available in that chassis. Daytona's only came with 440's and 426 Hemi's so it has to be a 440 block, he can't use a thick web 400 230 block unfortunately.

Here is what you need, a factory crossbolt wedge block ( I was told it is a nascar casting) this is nos

That is cool.

Define good block please
I like and use Ductile Iron main caps with ARP main studs on all my builds that will exceed 600 HP on pump gas. I also choose to use and build 400 blocks for any wedge build, regardless of fuel type used, for motors built to make over 700 HP also
As already stated a good race block is the best choice to start with on any serious race build
PM on this for more information and help, if you want it

Will they be allowed to use power adders such as a turbo.

900 wedge HP without power adders is almost impossible/ at least very hard without 4.5 inch bores
and it is silly to think that a stock block will hold 900 HP for long no matter what the heck you do to it ( unless perfectly tuned turbo or the like)
Please call Marsh Perf 336 283 0800 and get a new 440 block from him--he has two in stock ready to go --not cheap but hey he has the only two on the market I am guessing
DRY SUMP DRY SUMP
A Hemi is the right direction for that job but bet the bar is already set pretty darn high in that class
Just no good answer on making that goal with a $50 block and spending a grand+++ to slightly improve it is still a crapshoot
Wet sump in that application is rolling the dice

Real funny, been reading David Vizards book on porting. He shows on one page a 410 cu in small block Chevy single four making in excess of 1000 hp and we can't even get close. What a shame or are we talked out of it before we even try?

How long did that SBC last, though

I assume this was a N/A engine... thats 2.44 HP
per ci.. thats a ton.. sounds like one of those
happy dynos

When I read his carb book I really got that same feeling.