I have a 1972 413 and i was wondering if we could use a different waterpump with this block rather than the behemoth that came with it

New blood! welcome aboard. I would be surprised if the block openings/bolt pattern is different precluding using the std regular pump. I'd measure bolt spacing for a start. I cant say I've ever seen one of the ones you describe but I heard something about it way back

Since I can only assume it is in a motorhome ? If you have the odd heads with the extra water jackets and raised water pump, not really sure of how using a normal car style water pump and housing would be able to plumb up to what you have ?

It came out of a truck and has water ports in front and back of heads but the back is plugged off, the head numbers are 2899943. we were just curious if we could plug the front off too being the waterpump from a 77 440 we have lines up with the ports on the block

Those heads are all done at 4500 rpm. Of course, it depends on what you plan to use it for, but it would be much easier to use the standard car or pickup waterpump housing and a set of regular big block heads.

with the external head cooling being for addit'l cooling for that industrial heavy duty app I would think that there would still be std cooling flow from the deck/head/head gasket cooling passages. Unless someone knows for sure & says no, I would block off the front of the heads as you mentioned & see if it cools OK with a std pump setup you have in mind

Depending what you're gonna put it in, you may have trouble if you can't use the exhaust manifolds. The motorhome engines I've used had a goofy bolt pattern for the exhaust.

I've always just put a normal set of heads on em.
Getting pulleys to line up was a bit of a pain with the thick balancer also.

The normal route is to strip it down to shortblock and replace everything with passcar/light truck stuff. I see no trouble if you can get waterpump to line up and leave no holes uncovered. But I haven't done one of these.

Who knows what the heads will actually flow? I don't remember ever seeing flowbench data on them. But they do demand their own exhaust manifolds. Years ago I think there were headers for that head, for a motorhome. I have seen one set on Craigslist.

For so many reasons, the swap to car stuff makes sense.

R.

I have used two of those blocks in passenger cars for 426 Max wedge engine builds, they are usually way better on the cylinder wall thickness than any passenger car block I have sonic tested. I used all the OEM timing cover, timing setdistributor, oil pump drive ,M.W. heads, rocker gear, oil pan and pick up and so on
I bored both of them to 4,250 so there was room for future engine builds, I could have bored one of them to 4.310 and still had over .200 cylinder wall thicknesses on both the major and minor thrust surfaces
If you want to know how thick the walls are on yours before boring it have it sonic tested by a good shop

Were putting it in a truck, though the pump gets in the way of the torque storm. It does have the std cooling passages so no worry there. And i also have old headers that work for 413 only.

Thanks for the info cab!! Thats what we eventually want to do, have you ever sold your duster? And were curious whats the best way to get power out of a 440 on pump gas? And what are M.W heads?

M.W. = Max Wedge.

And keep in mind, your engine in as-is condition has about nothing-to-one compression ratio probably. so watch what cam and such you choose if you upgrade it before use without going with higher compression ratio, different heads, etc.

I traded the Duster off several years ago for light weight tube chassis 1970 Cuda that I race now, it is a S/P,S/ST, S/G car that runs 9.0 in the 1/4 mile at Woodburn in the summer off the stop
As far as making decent or good power from a 440 block start off with a good 400 block first and stroke it( I like 4.25, 4.300 and 4.375 strokes ) with a set of really good heads and large carburetor
My Duster motor was 400 block 4.300 stroked motor with 518 C.I. with a set of Indy SR heads with M.W port size intake and a Indy 400-3 intake and a Holley 1050 CFM Dominator, it ran it's best at Woodburn of 9.993 at 134.8 MPH weighing 3450 lbs. with me in it with both the air cleaner and full exhaust on using 91 octane Oregon non ethanol pump swill

These guys are steering you correctly.

The car water pump housing is a direct bolt on. You will need to block the water inlets on the front of the heads. Pretty easy task. A flat plate and some gasket paper makes short work of that problem.

As stated, the pullies can be a bit tricky due to the fat damper.


Industrial and motorhome manifolds clear truck chassis without a problem.


Oz hit the important part. The engines have disturbingly low compression.


I had a 1973 413 that was a real odd ball. I stuffed it into my 1980 D100 but ran out of time to finish the build.

My dad has one in a super bee with 906 heads a small cam and headers. It's not a speed demon but runs good on regular gas. It will still fry the tires from a dead stop. Just gotta be smart on component selection

What's a "torque storm"?

R.

can a "regular" internally balanced dampener be used??. Pulley alignment probs can be aggravating. I ain't sayin pull the heads but if you do, see how far down the pistons are

It's one of them whirly-gig huffer charger things.

& fits under the hood!