How does it cool ?what are you cooling?

my old 65 dart 318 DD. 2 row core $189 to my door (eBay). cooled fine but my app ain't gonna stress it any. I had to redrill one mounting hole in the dr side flat flange (no big deal). reportedly some of em have flatness issues and the oval tubes ain't as big as some radiators (I never woulda thought of that till someone posted it here). there might or might not be an issue fitting/mounting a schroud, I think someone mentioned that but I dont remember if mine would have been easy to drill/mount a schroud cuz I did not use one. iirc there is a guy on here who sells em with an unconditional guarantee (cant beat that). If you dont mind the look of the square tank, I think functionally and pricewise they are a good deal

I put one in a 68 Dart convertible, had to drill one new hole and I did not use a shroud. Seemed to cool the 340 just fine with an electric fan, but like said above there could be some flatness issues as it potato-chipped when I bolted it in, but it straightened out after the last bolt, I was just worried about creating a stress point.

Which one did you get and how many rolls I have a 69 dart that I want to put it

I put a 3-row cc526 in my 68 but I'm using a 70+ water pump and pulleys. Lower rad nipple is on the passengers side. I built a shroud for it. I hope it works out...I haven't run it yet.

I would suggest a 3 row core and use the pump housing that would put the hose on the opposite side of the timing marks & the rad lower nipple to match of course & your set. If I had a real high HP eng and a tornado fan/schroud setup I might get a 4 row. Rhino I was thinking that a nut or spacer between the rad & rad support might keep it from being stressed but it would look hokey (how far was it twisted?). they must be doing something wrong as far as secureing it when they weld

I was concerned about that after reading some replies however mine was straight. I needed to slightly clearance one hole but didn't need to drill a new one.

I bought one from Ebay for my 65 b body.Was leary as it was only 150 shipped.My 440 is built with 12.5 domes etc.Runs on the street.has march underdrive.Suprised how well it works.My 65 runs cool even in the 90s.Only problem I had was bottom hose is 1 1/2 inch rad and my 440 is 1 3/4.Just used an adapter for 5 bucks.Did have to make a new upper also as it was in different position than the 65 rad.Pleased with it though.Rocky

One came in the Duster project I bought. Cools a 512" RB just fine using a plastic shroud I bought from Speedway and a stock fan. I did use a smaller fan pulley to speed it & the pump up a little. Shroud mounting required some thought & fabrication.

I have had 3 Champion radiators and all were twisted. One was so bad that I couldn't use it, but they waranteed it, no problem. All cooled good and didn't leak. Just the twisted issue.

Ditto...I think it was the bottom pass side hole...
Mines been in for a couple years now with no cooling issues whatsoever...

Couldn't keep a 408 cool in a Duster with a Spectra 22" 2 row. Switched to a Champion 3 row and it's been fine ever since.

I talked to this guy on the phone for a while. I had concerns about the poor welds and twisting that I'd heard about. He's made me feel at ease. He has almost 5600 feedbacks with 100% positive reviews and he wants to keep it that way. If I had a problem, he wanted to know.

Champion Radiator guy

Put a Champion 22in 3 core in my 68 B-body with a warmed up 440. OEM style fan and clutch no shroud. Stays at 185 around town and 195-200 downd the freeway in 90 degree weather. Might add a shroud but happy as is.