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Full groove, 3/4 grove, or 1/2 groove main bearings. #2196595
11/15/16 01:54 AM
11/15/16 01:54 AM
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Sioux Falls, SD
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MGC340 Offline OP
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Hello all,

I recently bought a set of King XP main bearings for my small block stroker motor I'm building. Upon getting them I realized there not a full groove bearing. We've always run full groove bearings in our race small blocks with the theory they oiled better. What's every one running for there high horsepower, higher rpm engines? What are your guys thoughts on full groove, 3/4 groove, and 1/2 groove bearings?

Thanks, Mark

Re: Full groove, 3/4 grove, or 1/2 groove main bearings. [Re: MGC340] #2196597
11/15/16 01:59 AM
11/15/16 01:59 AM
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Oregon
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AndyF Offline
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3/4 is the best if you can find them. Not a lot of choices for some of the Mopar sizes though so sometimes you just have to live with what you can find.

Re: Full groove, 3/4 grove, or 1/2 groove main bearings. [Re: MGC340] #2196598
11/15/16 02:02 AM
11/15/16 02:02 AM
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Sioux Falls, SD
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MGC340 Offline OP
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Any of you guys run the King XP?

Re: Full groove, 3/4 grove, or 1/2 groove main bearings. [Re: MGC340] #2196615
11/15/16 02:29 AM
11/15/16 02:29 AM
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Washington
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madscientist Offline
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If you have factory oil, I always run full groove. You can't get the oil to the rods on time. Never seen one fail because it had a full groove.


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: Full groove, 3/4 grove, or 1/2 groove main bearings. [Re: madscientist] #2196629
11/15/16 04:03 AM
11/15/16 04:03 AM
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Bend,OR USA
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Originally Posted By madscientist
If you have factory oil, I always run full groove. You can't get the oil to the rods on time. Never seen one fail because it had a full groove.
iagree thumbs


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Full groove, 3/4 grove, or 1/2 groove main bearings. [Re: MGC340] #2196663
11/15/16 10:58 AM
11/15/16 10:58 AM

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crabman173
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Never seen one fail because it did not have full groove--King used to make the HP series with a 3/4 groove--I always liked it but--they have dropped it and now only produce the half groove--they swear they have tested it every which way and can't see any advantage ---I have run every type in every combo you can imagine and have never been able to determine one was better than another--Full groove and loose you see it on the oil pressure gauge--other than that it is all speculation what is going on in there.
I have asked my wife that when I die and am cremated--please toss a little of me down the throat of a badd azz engine running wide open so I can finally see what is going on in there--
I do lots of other brands engines that do not offer anything other than half groove--If there is plenty of clearance and no detonation etc they all come through with flying colors. The nightmare of a "spun" rod bearing keeps many folks awake --they Fear it in some crazy way that just does not line up with the fact that very very few folks ever experience that problem--some racers go an entire career without ever hurting an engine--
Irrational fear of a problem that is very rare --

Re: Full groove, 3/4 grove, or 1/2 groove main bearings. [Re: MGC340] #2196738
11/15/16 01:37 PM
11/15/16 01:37 PM
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New York
polyspheric Offline
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One thing a groove definitely does is reduce local pressure at the bearing/journal interface.


Boffin Emeritus
Re: Full groove, 3/4 grove, or 1/2 groove main bearings. [Re: polyspheric] #2196822
11/15/16 04:21 PM
11/15/16 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted By polyspheric
One thing a groove definitely does is reduce local pressure at the bearing/journal interface.


That's true.

The oiling system is constant flow, for the most part. Except to the rods and the rockers. They get timed oil.

If you spin the guts out of them, and don't groove the cam so some oil gets to the rockers all the time, you can blue some adjusters and things like that.

It's the same with the rods. They get timed oil. The problem is, Chrysler got the timing off. It's not usually an issue at lower RPM's. A full grooved bearing takes a timed oil system and makes it constant flow.

You may not get full pressure to the rods all the time, but you get some oil out there, all the time.

Last edited by madscientist; 11/15/16 04:21 PM.

Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: Full groove, 3/4 grove, or 1/2 groove main bearings. [Re: madscientist] #2197108
11/16/16 12:40 AM
11/16/16 12:40 AM
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Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
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Quote:
The oiling system is constant flow, for the most part. Except to the rods and the rockers. They get timed oil.

If you spin the guts out of them, and don't groove the cam so some oil gets to the rockers all the time, you can blue some adjusters and things like that. They get timed oil. The problem is, Chrysler got the timing off. It's not usually an issue at lower RPM's.
that is why I feed the rockers full time and redrill new holes in the adjuster and pushrod sides of the rocker and on thru to/into the shaft so the holes (.100") line up when the valve is closed so they get fed at that point and I solder shut the OE shaft holes on the adjuster side that are way off and also braze closed, the ones on top and the big access holes on the adjuster sides of the rockers (273 iron rockers)


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: Full groove, 3/4 grove, or 1/2 groove main bearings. [Re: RapidRobert] #2197117
11/16/16 12:48 AM
11/16/16 12:48 AM
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Originally Posted By RapidRobert
Quote:
The oiling system is constant flow, for the most part. Except to the rods and the rockers. They get timed oil.

If you spin the guts out of them, and don't groove the cam so some oil gets to the rockers all the time, you can blue some adjusters and things like that. They get timed oil. The problem is, Chrysler got the timing off. It's not usually an issue at lower RPM's.
that is why I feed the rockers full time and redrill new holes in the adjuster and pushrod sides of the rocker and on thru to/into the shaft so the holes (.100") line up when the valve is closed so they get fed at that point and I solder shut the OE shaft holes on the adjuster side that are way off and also braze closed, the ones on top and the big access holes on the adjuster sides of the rockers (273 iron rockers)


I just tap a ball of lead shot into the holes that don't line up.


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
Re: Full groove, 3/4 grove, or 1/2 groove main bearings. [Re: ] #2197143
11/16/16 01:19 AM
11/16/16 01:19 AM
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Canton, Ohio
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Sport440 Offline
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Originally Posted By crabman173
The nightmare of a "spun" rod bearing keeps many folks awake --they Fear it in some crazy way that just does not line up with the fact that very very few folks ever experience that problem--some racers go an entire career without ever hurting an engine--
Irrational fear of a problem that is very rare --



I'm not sure that's a Irrational Fear. IMO, that's the Most common failure, a Spun rod bearing. They spin from lack of crush/clearance or oil. My vote, Full groove for full oiling of the rod bearings. Not a Guarantee, but just extra insurance. 3/4 would be my next pick.







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