OK my mind is blank right now. I have a 64 newport with 361. I had to use a screwdriver to jump the starter relay to start it. Now it won't start with the key won't even crank. Has new relay. Any advice is appreciated, Thanks.

(1) Oh that's the story of my life (2) see if the yellow wire at the starter relay is hot when a helper holds the key to "start". if it ain't hot then seperate the bulkhead & see if the back half is hot (key held to start). if it is hot at the SR then have him let off the key and you with a screwdriver jump from the large threaded batt stud on the SR to the brown wire terminal with the mini bolt that is next to it on the SR & see if it cranks & if so that tells you the starter the solenoid the battery and the large cables are up to snuff. if no crank holler & we'll continue on

Bulkhead connections. Pull the connections and clean them with electrical cleaner. check the bulkhead connection to insure the pins line up and are tight.

Hi Rapid Robert sorry took so long. Just haven't had time to even work on it. I did get a chance today, with key held to start I have power at yellow wire. Jumping the stud and brown wire with stud it will crank. But still won't crank with the key, nothing at all not even a click.it acts like maybe a bad neutral safety switch, ignition switch??? Thanks for your help so far appreciate it.

Absolutely no rush bro (Here we have more time than money). pull the electrical connector off of the terminal on the side of the trans and ohm the male pin on the switch to the nearby trans case with it in park or neutral & there should be good continuity. then ground the connector/wire that you pulled off of it to the trans case then go back up front & see if it will crank. if it is the trans switch you can ground the male "grn" terminal back up at the starter relay to the SR metal case to bypass that safety feature for an easy fix if desired or take out the switch from the trans and reinstall it is the threads may have lost continuity to the case (not likely cuz there is alot of contact area) and or work with it on your bench with your meter and look in the trans to see if anything has come undone from the rooster comb. I am assuming this is a single wire connector, if it is a 3 wire then work with the middle pin and the middle wire. reportedly some replacement switches have the wrong length inside pin that contacts the rooster comb & wont work right so don't toss the old one if replaceing. EDIT you might wanna jack up the dr side to minimize fluid loss

Push button right?
I had a 64 New Yorker and it was push button.
Long time ago and I don't recall just how it worked.
I seem to think it was button in neutral and there was definitely a lever for park.
Don't recall if start wire ran through the park lever or the button for neutral. I would think neutral should be it.
Maybe something going on in that circuit?

The park lever puts it in neutral as it goes into park, or it should anyway. Neutral switch is on the PB assembly, IIRC and there is an adjustment for it.

the neutral switch is on the transmission. however, there is a slight adjustment that insures the push button goes into neutral when the park lever is moved. the backup lamp switch [if equipped with back up lamps] is located on the push button assembly and has a minor adjustment to it.

Got them backwards in my mind.

So, no adjustment on the neutral switch, assuming trans goes into N during park. In converted my 64 300 to automatic years ago, so the wife could drive it. But it's been many years ago.

There are types of single pin neutral switches. One has a steel plunger, one has a white nylon plunger with a steel pin in the center. They are different lengths. Using the longer nylon switch with the wrong valve body can inhibit the movement because the threaded portion of the switch will contact the rooster comb. It may or may not go all the way to the neutral position when moving the park lever. Then the starter circuit will not ground causing a no crank condition. Using the shorter switch on the incorrect valve body will cause no ground for the starter relay as the switch will not contact the valve body.
Doug

So no neutral button at all?
I got that one way off.
It has been a few decades.

No, there is a N pushbutton as well, just that when you put the park lever into Park is also pushs in the N pushbutton, they are mechanically interlocked. P also engages N, but N does not engage P, if that makes sense.

Supercuda is correct.On early ones the N button had the starter circuit on it.My 57 did as they ran it up to I think 59.I know 58 for sure.No park on them.Just a drum on trans as park brake.Some 62s supposedly came with park levers.My kids 300 did not as did the 62 Dodge we had years ago.Every 63 up we had did have park.

rocky, i think the park levers came on all the aluminum case 62-64 transmissions. the 62 880 and the 62 newport wagon i had did not have the park levers, and they were the iron case transmissions with the parking brake drum assembly on the rear of them.

Nope my kids 62 300 had aluminum trans and no park.Same with the 62 Dodge wagon we had years ago.Last iron trans was 61 with 8 bolt crank.Still have the trans from his 300 as he went to a CRT one for racing.Rocky

was the 62 wagon a dart wagon ? i remember pulling the trans from the newport wagon and it definitely was iron [and heavy !] and i was surprised to find an 8 bolt crank. this combo most likely was a transplant, because i bought it from a junk yard. when the car came in, it did not run, and the owner didn't know what was wrong with it. so with an 8 bolt crank, the crank end would be the [around] 1" longer stick out, no ? i don't own anything other than a '62 imperial FSM, and looking up the transmission section, you are correct in that transmission was aluminum with the e-brake assembly on the tailshaft. so i guess the question would be : exactly when did the park lever come to be, and in what body line being the first to have it ?

IIRC it was a Polara Wagon.been decades since we had it.My kids friend had a 62 newport and it had no park.My other son had a 62 Imp.It also had no park lever.Might have been some made in late year that got the park.I do know the 63s and 64s we had did have park.

62 b bodys should be aluminum, have a park lever, and normal park brake in the rear drums. C Bodys had the external park drum.
Doug

Chrysler service manuals including 1964.

1964 Hewport,park lever,1962 Plymouth,park lever,1962 880 park lever,1962 Dart no lever,first park lever was 1962.No A-488 cast iron T/F after 1961 in passenger car.