I have a duster that I am bracket Racing.I don't have very much money.I have run a best of 15.72 in the Quarter mile.
Here is my set up.
68 318
600 cfm edlebrock carb with a performer intake
j heads 1.88 intake 1.60 exhaust
340 manifolds
727 transmission
8 3/4 rear end 3.55 suregrip.
Cam is 260/268 Duration 430/450 lift.


I don't want to hear go to a 360.This is what I have.
I just want to go a full second faster.
3.91 rear end is in the works.
Thank you to all who repley.

What convertor?

What camshaft are you running? I think headers will help you. Not big honking race headers, you want smaller primaries for that smaller engines torque.

A good budget converter
A better intake (performer RPM)
Headers
Cam in the 235 @ .050 range (thinking summit lg. Cam)
3.91's
Strip the car of ANY extra weight.

Should be a pretty solid 13 second package.

What MPH and RPM are you trapping at now?
Cam lift and compression are what normally needs to be addressed in a 318.

I am sorry The Cam is 260/268 duration.430/450 lift

If you didn't mill the heads a fair amount, the cr is likely pretty low.

Do a compression test and see what cranking pressure is now before thinking about swapping in some big cam.

If ET is really the goal....Put headers on it, use plenty of stall & plenty of gear.

You don't want to hear it, but the reason people are going to tell you to do a 360 is because in the end, that's really the best way to get where you want to be.

This was my combo in my 70' Dart w/ 318

340 iron intake
Thermoquad carb
The cheap headman headers (small tube)
484 purple shaft cam
un-ported 360 heads
4.10 8 3/4
26" Mickey Thompson Street ET tires
lame converter
manual valve bodied 727
Full exhaust
60' in the 2 second range (garbage converter)
Best ET 14.02 @ 102mph, Would run consistent 14.1x @ 100mph all day

If I had a good converter, would have gone in the 13.xx no problem. Loads of fun on the street from a 20 roll

Gear and good convertor are your best friends with a little motor

Best bang for the buck is a small plate of NO2.

318 @ .030 over
Eddy Alumn. single plane intake
750 race Proform carb
headman headers (small tube)
484 hyd. purple shaft cam
Worked 318 heads
4.10 8 3/4
27" Mickey Thompson Slicks
4200 converter
manual valve bodied 904
Full exhaust
60' in the 1.90 second range
Best ET 13.93 @ 102mph, Would run consistent 14.00x @ 101mph all day long.

Should have kept that combination, very simple and very easy on the pocket book.

Not needed. Way to easy to do it with a 318 to need nitrous. Why do guys always choice the EASY way??? Take some pride in yourself and get your hands dirty.

THIS/\

'71 ring and bearing 318. Very loose!
360 J heads with 1.88 intake
.480 comp hydraulic cam
M1 Single plane
750 Holley 3310
Cheapie headers, 2.5" exhaust, turndowns at axle.
2500 stall
3.23 gears

3460 lbs.

I managed 95 mph in the quarter which equates to 13.6-ish. I only got it to run 14's on crappy 245 street tires.

He wants to go racing and doesn't have much money

My 318 numbers in my signature. Could be a good bit faster with more upgrades to the car around it.
Some of which I am going to do over the winter.

I am launching in 2nd gear(column auto) 1st to 2nd, and shifting at about 5200 rpm.

Like everyone else said, more gear converter and cam. 4.30-4.56 gear, super short tire if you are stuck with 3.91, 4000+ converter and the biggest solid cam you can fit. The cheapest way is never the most efficient or streetable...

3.91 gear is a good start. More will be needed shortly, though. A compression test will give you a good baseline number. From there, I would pull the heads for milling. If pistons are deep in the bores, the block should be decked, too. But I understand money is a concern, so the heads would be the cheapest compression increase. Use OEM steel shim gaskets to keep compression up. A nice cam in the .480 lift area shouldn't hurt the pocket too bad. Install it advanced. If you don't have the funds to upgrade the intake, put a 1" spacer under the carb. You will need to determine if it likes a 4 hole or open spacer best. Small tube headers and a decent converter. If you are running a stock converter, I'm sure anything you can find 2,800-3,500 rpm will do fine. Start gutting the car. Spare tire and jack, back seat, passenger seat, heater box, wiper assembly, radio, amp, a/c.

I don't know how thin your budget is, but you can do some changes for cheap.

First, keep the 600 and performer manifold. They are plenty adequate.

The CR is going to be really low. Either mill the heads, or change the cam to a modern lobe to get the cylinder pressure up, or both. Something like a Lunati 10200701 would be my choice.

Add a set of 1.6 roller rockers, properly set up of course. Here is where I can really help.

Skip the 3.91 gears and go straight to 4.10. 4.30s might be better yet for a 318.

If possible, ditch the 727, and put the 904 that's supposed to be there back in with a true 3000-3500 converter. Your wasting efficiency with a heavier than necessary transmission.

Bowl port, or have ported, the j heads, and port match the manifold.

1-5/8" primary tube full length headers.

If you can do everything except the machine work yourself, you should be able to stay under $2000.

If a low compression 360 with this basic combo can run 12.90s, you should have no problem going 13.90s with your 318, unless it's just plain wore out.