I'm getting ready to install 2"x3" frame connectors in my 65 Coronet and my question is how far should I slide the frame connectors into the rear longitudinals? I am also moving the springs inboard at the same time. Is it possible to incorporate the two together and also use the connectors as spring mounts??

anybody!! I could sure use some help/suggestions

Ill be doing the same to my 65 Belvedere soon.Im thinking about moving the spring holes an inch also so I can run the 67 up springs instead of the shorter front 65s.Rocky

Why would you want a longer front segment?

I just installed 2X3 connectors in my 65 sedan. I bought the connectors in 4' sections, but next time I will go longer. I could have extended them another 6" into the longitudals. It probably isn't that big of a deal, but I'll take all the rigidity I can get! I welded up some connectors in a freinds dart and he made his the way you're suggesting. He fit the connectors in the car and extended them all the way through the frame to the relocator hanger. Once the original frame was notched for the relocator hangers, we welded the hangers to the connectors and slid them through the original frame and welded them in. I thought this was a pretty cool idea at the time, and if I was using a relocation kit I would have done it the same way. Good luck!!

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I did my 1964 Plymouth a few years ago and I welded the frame ties in the same location as the stock rails. I used 2" square tubing to do mine. I cut the rear of the frame ties to the same angle as the rear rails and weld them in place, I did not shove them into the rear rail itself. I held them up with a floor jack to bring it in tight, then welded them to the trans crossmember in the front. I mini tubbed the rear wheelwells up to the rear framerails which gained 2.200". I cut the filler to that width and welded them in butt jointing to the split wheelwell. I then metal finished them smooth. You can't even tell they were widened except for the look in the truck. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the replys. I want to leave the outer wall of the longitudinal,and the outside wall of the frame connector to locate my spring mounting bolt holes, and then either fab an inner longitudinal wall, or use the spring re-location ready made boxes. thought this might be maybe a little stronger? Any suggestions?

I left the outside wall of the rear framerail in place and welded the new box into it as you stated. The springs are directly below (actually a little inboard) of the original rails. The rear spring mount is now through the rail itself. Weld the bushings in the rail to hold the spring shackles. I have 16.5 x 31 Mickey's tires in the rear which measure 15.5" wide on 12" rims, if they were 14.5 it would be better but they have to be centered perfect in the wheelwell. I believe I narrowed the rear end 6" to fit 12" Cragers under with 4.25 backspace.

Thanks for the info/photos guys. I was a big help. Great site, and I appreciate the help. Litz