Fusible link, headlights, and tail light bulbs all blew. My Autometer brand volt gauge fried.

I changed the voltage regulator but it blew another fusible link on the main power wire. Everything appears to be hooked up correct. Could my new alternator be bad?

(1968 Dodge Dart/440/MSD Ignition)

Thanks guys!

eng at a fast idle. battery fully charged (it should be by now!). lights/stereo etc off. voltmeter on 20 V DC. red lead on alt batt stud. black lead on alt case. fast idle for several seconds just long enough to take a reading (digitals might take several seconds to stabilize). box reg/single field terminal alt or 2 field terminal alt/flat reg. if box reg, is it an OE wire wound type (has resistors on bottom side)? any parts or adjustment changes preceding this? what alt type? wired correctly? when dark outside & everything shut off, pull a batt cable off of its post then touch it back to the post & see if you see a spark

Ouch!

The alternator could be bad and worth taking it to an AP store or auto electric shop for a test.

That said, if the alternator is not controlled and goes to "full field" and maximum output the vehicle electrical system and battery will usually take it for a little while until the battery overcharges and fails. Did it run for a while in this condition? I wonder if the battery is cooked and failed?

Another thing to check is the wiring starting with the bulkhead connector and ammeter connections (if equipped). Even if wiring and connections were OK to start with, the over voltage may have hurt something.

Alternator is full fielded. Being it's a 68, assuming it's still stock in regards to the charging system, you either have battery voltage on the field terminal all the time or the the alternator is fubar, some voltage measurements with key on, engine off might help.

Voltage at alternator field terminal
As above with V/R disconnected at the V/R.

If your voltage regulator is not properly grounded it can cause overvoltage issues.

I ran the battery wire from the back of the alternator straight to the starter relay. Solved it and I now have a consistent 14volts. Short was in the steering column harness. I ordered a new one.

On an intermittent poor reg ground: In no ground mode it will undercharge cuz the case needs to be grounded for the reg to meter current in the green wire to ground thru the case then when it makes contact it overcharges to charge the depleted battery back up

Thanks for the assistance everyone. Now when I remove the column harness do I have to yank put the whole column or can I just fish the wIres out from top and then back down?

you can fish it out thru the top, the hard part is the connector half at the bottom end. you might have to remove each terminal/wire from the connector half (that would be a pain) or just cut it off leaving pigtails then resolder the cut wires when going back together (some work but easier than the first one). Are you sure you cant just pull the top connector up and out a bit to expose the wire/connection that you need to resolder/fix as opposed to pulling the whole shebang out of there?

Unsure where exactly the short is in it, plus it feels very brittle and weak. Better off just replacing the whole thing IMO.

Bad Ground Car will run with out column in it all it has is turn and brake lights

If I jiggle the white column wire it pops the fuse. I don't have brake lights or 4 way flashers

the white wire is the output wire from the brakelight switch to the column brake/turn signal switch assy. It's hot when the brake pedal is depressed. EDIT pops the brake light switch fuse I am assuming? there should be no continuity in the white wire to ground. MORE EDIT unless there has been excessive amperage (happens) or strands broken from excessive flexing (rare) or cut insulation making a potential dead short, wires go bad at the terminals/connections on the ends so I would grab your meter & start ohming plus a visual at the top TS switch (where all the constant mechanical movement is).

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I changed the harness, everything worked fine they a fuse popped. The 4 way flasher isn't working and the left turn signal does not work. Only the right brake light works. Both taillights come one when the headlights are on. I'm lost

I'll get back after it tomorrow & find out what needs to be cleared out then we can attack each system piece by piece. 68 dart correct, with OE harnesses/stock routing/no alterations?

first we gotta find/fix the dead short in the column wiring harness. In the TS half of the harness pull apart connector, with the stalk in neutral there should be continuity in the white wire to the (2) out wires to the rear brake lights ( www.mymopar.com ) will have the colors/schematics. none of the wires should have continuity to ground but if there is an indicator light on the PRNDL shifter panel it will show some ohms thru the bulb base to ground. the horn button wire will have continuity to ground only when the horn is pushed. You might pull the connector off of the headlight switch & jump fire to the various terminals & see what lights up. also take off the DR kick panel & jump fire to the terminals on the rear half of the pull apart connector & one wire will light up both taillights and (2) wires for each seperate right and left brake lights. do not put voltage to the wire for the tank sender. check mymopar for the colors. this'll get us started.

Everything is working correctly now except the drivers side brake light. It won't work when the brake is applied and along with the left turn signal. It illuminates when the headlights are turned on. Also both rear tail lights will not flash when the hazards are turned on. The front will however. This just started happening.