I bought a project truck and the guy who sold it to me wasn't sure the motor would turn. I can't get it to turn by hand for certain, not sure if I can even figure out how to get a socket or how big it would need to be.

I am looking to get going on this project after a VERY long delay. Any ideas on freeing this motor up and how to make it turn would be welcome.

1948 dodge power wagon. 215 motor. It was rebuilt in 1955 according to the tag on the block. That should be recent enough...

Pull the head and see what the cylinders look like. I've seen many that are probably never going to turn over again. The head gasket would be a cheap expense if the motor looks good, but it could save you a lot of time jacking around, you will know for sure if this is the motor you want to exercise your efforts towards.

1955 was a long time ago, lots of stuff could have happened to that motor over the last 61 years. I've seen rebuilt motors that didn't last a month....Gene

Years ago a guy at an antique tractor show said denatured alcohol would break a frozen motor loose every time. I've never needed to try it, maybe someone else will chime in.

I've have good luck using CLR on rusty stuff, and it will loosen things up.

Good luck. Sounds like you have a cool project.

pull the spark plugs and spray some PB Blaster down the holes. Let it sit over night and try a breaker bar on the crank nut. If it's really that stuck though, don't expect it to run too good when you get it going.

PB Blaster is awesome stuff.

Here's the deal.....You can get it to turn over if you are patient and smart. If the engine was under a hood or if it had the aircleaner on to keep water out of it it's probably not that bad inside. Again we're talking about a 90 hp engine that even on its best day wasn't very strong.

So, I'd say pull the spark plugs and put some Diesel fuel or acetone and ATF, or PB Blaster or the like and let it sit for a week or more. Then drain the oil pan because there could be a gallon or two of water in there, it came from condensation. I'd put in used oil from a daily driver until you get it to spin at least.
Then air up the tires and hook something like a pickup to the front end and stick it in high gear, keep the clutch in until you get the truck moving, then engage and disengage the clutch a few times. Sometimes that's all it takes to get it to spin. If not, put in some more of whatever you're pouring into the cylinders and let it sit for another week. Then try it again. I suggest leaving the spark plugs out when you are pulling it so you don't hydrolock the cylinders.

Once you get it turning, then it's time to try to get it to run. But first things first.

And don't let the doom-and-gloomers get you down. Nothing quite as exciting as resurrecting an old beast!

R.

Ditto on the PB Blaster or similar followed by ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil. Once it soaks and you get a bar on it, it may take some back and forth rocking + patience.

Its also pretty easy to pull the heads on these... and NAPA can likely still get a head gasket or a specialist vendor will have one for sure. Maybe pull the head if the first approach does not work.

I run a flattie in a Power Wagon. It is mostly retired but does work a little each year. Two trips with 2 1/2 yards of mulch each were its summer work this year. Handled it like a champ.

I agree with all of the above. A friend of mine got a VW kit car that was hugely neglected with the spark plugs removed, nothing over the open carb and left in the Florida weather for a couple years. The crank case was 50/50 water/oily muck and the motor was ceased. We drained the crank case, filled the cylinders with ATF and the crank case with a mixture of kerosene and ATF (because that's all the "junk" he had laying around). It was an experiment, so... He left a breaker bar on the crank bolt and we leaned on it just a little bit pretty much every day for a month or so. One day after roughly a month of playing with it, it broke loose. Within a couple more days of working it slowly back and forth, it rotated smooth as silk. He never did attempt to get it running and sold it as a core. But my point is...give it a shot and don't be too hasty...it'll probably break free with a little effort, and then you can do a compression check to see what you have. Good luck!

I second the take your time and rock it with the marvel pour it let it sit day or two and go to it. take your time and life may be sweet with a little oil burn ..its a six its not dead , great engines tough to kill. IMO

I had a 39 Plymouth coupe, the flat 6 in it was locked up big time when I bought it.

Tried all the mentioned tricks, nothing worked, first time that ever happened.

Pulled the pan and the bore's looked good.

Pulled the head and the bores all looked good, except for one bore where the water in the cooling jacket corroded thru the cylinder wall and that bit of rust was what locked it up.

Scrap metal then.

I have plenty of PB and will let it soak for a few days. I will let everyone know what happens. This was a basket case from someone else, and it has not been stored outside. We will see.

Just got back from dropping the son off at college, so now I can play with it a lot more easily.

Thank-you

while this engine turned over I did the same. I soaked the cylinders down, turn it a little sprayed some more, let it sit. Then I changed the oil. I then did new points, coil, wires and distrib cap. It was a smokey Joe for a while. (I drained and flushed the tank as much as possible. runs good thou. Good luck. Like said IF it has been under cover or at least the engine out of the elements it should turn. This had no air cleaner for probably 20+ years. 51 Dodge

P.S. Use a 12v battery and it will really turn over! Just remember it is Positive to Ground.

Been sick and unable to work on it. Grrrr!!! I will get on it soon.

Finally feeling up to work on it.

I can't find a socket to get on the front big enough to pry with. I think it is a 1-1/2 inch. If I knew for sure I would order one on Amazon.

Started to think about pulling the head and not sure how to get the studs out.

My problem is the truck is in pieces and it doesn't make sense to start putting all the other parts on if the engine won't turn. On Monday when the parts places open, I will look for the right socket.

Good Luck!

Also on these the whole front clip can be removed and installed as a single unit fenders and all. I'm not sure how far apart it is but you could get the front end assembled as a unit off the truck.

The factory service manual has the particulars on how to do it and is available as reproduction from Vintage Power Wagons. I made a lifting bar out of a 4x4 and steel straps and used a typical cherry picker to get mine off and back on when I pulled the engine.

Old farmer's trick, squirt oil in the cylinders, then hold a palm sander / jitterbug on the side of the block. the older vibrating air palm sander is what I saw used. It broke free a slant 6 out in the field that was used as an irrigation pump and when it fired, it blew out a half pound of rust, then ran all week...

Finally had time and the right tool to take a go at getting it to turn over. It moved without any problem at all. Did not even feel as though I needed it to "break" free.

This truck is in total pieces, so now I will feel better about putting the pieces back on it. I did not want to put the transmission and all that stuff back on if it didn't turn. Figured I would get another motor if I had to.

Congrats!