I'm trying to research which type grease to use for my Torsion bar sockets?

It appeared the factory used a heavy (peanut butter) type lube if my low mile car had it's original lube as it appeared. Chrysler called for "Multi=mileage Lubricant, Part Number 2525035 originally.

On my Disc brake wheel bearings I used Mopar wheel bearing grease. Click here LINK

I' would think that a moly grease would be best for the ball joint sockets and tie rod ends? This is the new Mopar multi mileage grease apparently good for ball joints but it say's it's barium based: click here LINK

What have you had success with long term? Do some greases in certain components break down the closer to header heat they might be?

Thanks

Barium, huh?


http://matrix-lubricants.com/product/417/370/productgroup/Grease_Barium_Complex

Looks like it would work in a TB socket just fine.

I've been using Mobil 1 red in everything. Have yet to see a reason to change yet. Redline would be my next step up.

On TB sockets, other then a daily driven car, my feeling the main goal is corrosion prevention, I'm not convinced any wear would cause a problem in less then 100K? miles, and if it did, no real downside performance wise. That being said, maybe a light coat of synthetic grease, and FWIW, I don't use the TB boots anymore, driving on dirt roads though, with grease might be messy I suspect. On a similar line of thought nobody(?) greases the ball end of the TB adjuster screw.

On some other greasable/lube points, I might lean towards the frequency as a better plan then over great concern about the type of grease.

I use conventional high temp wheel bearing grease in the T bar sockets. It is nice and thick and little risk of dripping out.

If the sockets are dry, the T bars will creak and groan as they work. I think they need the lube and protection from dirt, moisture and corrosion.

I use the same conventional high temp bearing grease for the wheels and "heavy duty" moly grease for suspension joints.

This has worked well and keeps things simple.

" the T bars will creak and groan as they work."

Actually, if the chassis was perfectly stiff, I don't believe there would be any movement in the last 1" to generate any noise from a TB end mount hex. And TB's are always preloaded to the minimum of the chassis weight (ie no slack take up), and I would think if a TB became completely unloaded/relaxed during driving, any sound generated would be severely masked by other road/tire noises. Since everyone's chassis stiffness is different, we all might have different outcomes.

I believe a TB does shorten as it is twisted a small amount, not sure by how much or how dependent that shortening is on TB dia. Need to do some homework.

I had some work done on my chassis which required pulling the bars. They were re-installed dry. When I got it home and drove it there was a lot of creaking. A good shot of spray lube on the T bar sockets cleared it right up until I could pull the bars and pack with grease. Just my experience.