So what is the preferred method for keeping the front end low going downtrack on a car that likes front end travel on the starting line?I have a low 10 sec. b-body with stock front end,.840 bars,and qa1 singles.Has a glide,so the slr isnt bad.Have limiters with about 3" of travel and this last weekend we had a nasty up and down headwind that threw me for a loop.Got me to thinking that maybe it needs to be lower and out of the wind more.Limiting front travel is what Im thinking but I dont want to sacrifice the starting line.Thoughts?

Put a front spoiler (chin spoiler) on it.. as
speed picks up it will have more effect and still
gives you your lift at the line

as mr p says, add a front spoiler, you might have to add a back one too as i found out.

You can also experiment with taping/blocking any part of the grille as long as you can keep temps under control, best done with a front spoiler. Also keep in mind, any changes with airflow at the front, effects almost every surface that follows, hence the earlier comment of maybe also needing a rear spoiler/wing, but added control is likely your result/goal.

I think you need to loan me your car for a few months so I can work it out!😎 LOL.

Buy better shocks and limit the front end travel. Install a bracket on the frame rail and install a bolt and jam nut to limit the upper A arms.

Getting the air coming through the radiator out of the engine compartment somewhere other than under the car will help some. If you can allow it to escape from the back of the hood at the base of the windshield, you may even get a bit of downforce out of it.

Danny

I like the idea Mr.P,didn't think of that.Something flat black and mostly out of sight sounds interesting

Rich there's not many people I'd have drive my car,but you'd be on that list.I see you've been playing musical cars lately,lol.

daddy dave is nose up

His nose is up and looks as unstable as heII

Most cars carry the front as high as the shocks or limiters will allow it to.

Where is the toe and caster with the front in the "up position"? As the front end rises the chassis angle goes level or over center. This will give a greater effective caster angle at speed. If the toe is is correct 2.5 degrees should be plenty. Mine runs 150 straight and true. But you are correct when it gets 10 mph+ head/cross wind it does move around a bit. No toe out at the raised height is key.
Doug