Could someone show me a pic of wear the dots on the crank and camshaft should be when rotor is pointing at # 1 reday to fire.I plan on installing a new cam.Thanke in advance.

cam gear 12 o`clock and crank 6 o`clock

generally the cam is at 6 o clock and the crank is at 12 o clock...to line up the dots...but that is number 6 firing....once dots are lined up ...turn engine of one full turn to get no 1 firing...with cam dot at noon..and crank at noon...

Hmm, my 70 FSM shows small blocks with the timing marks opposite of what you say. Cam 6, crank 12. I don't have an FSM that covers a 360, so unless it's special I think you may have it wrong.

Yes, your right after seeing what I had posted. Sorry, OP

You really need to degree the new cam in so you get all the help from it you can If you bought a new timing set with the three keyways on the crankshaft gear you need to look at it real close and read the instructions so you know what keyway to use to get the cam timed on the intake lobe centers where you want it There will be three different marks on the crank gear above the keyways and three more like the ones above the keyways, a triangle, a dot and and a rectangle out under the teeth on the gear. Those are the marks you need to use to time the cam Is the motor in the car? If so take your time to get it right. If it is on a engine satnd, which is much better for this job, then make sure and degree it
I've had cams be as much as 8 degrees retarded by using the stock marks No motor Mopar V8 will run worth a hoot with the cam retarded even two degrees
Good luck, let us know your results when your done

Engine is on the stand,i hope i9 can get someone to come over with a degree wheel to help.

If your going to build more motors buy the degree wheel and a decent one inch travel dial indicator with a good magnetic base and learn to degree them yourself now
There is a lot of information available from cam companys and on line on how to degree the cams To avoid confusion on the terms used in cam timing the intake lobe center at max lift is used in relation to top dead center, moving it closer to top dead center is advancing the cam and moving it away from TDC is retarding the cam. Advancing the cams normally give the motor more bottom end power at the lower RPMs and will limit the peak RPM that the motor makes peak HP and torque, retarding the cam does the opposite, not good
Always degree the cam on the lifters, not on the valve retainers The rocker arms increase the ratio of lift and change the cam timing at the retainers just like thier designed to do I do check the lobe centers at the retainers also once I have the cam installed at the lobe centers I want on the lifters, I also check the valve to piston clearances at the same time
IHTHs

tell Tony what he's won...

Cam at 12, crank at 12 is #1 firing.

always a good idea to degree a cam. with the dots at 6/12 o'clock as said #6 is firing. it's much harder to visually line up the dots at 12/12 cuz the crank snout is in the way (but why the cam lobes ain't mfr ed so #1 is firing at that point is beyond me, it ain't mentioned in any manual I have ever read & we lost a race way back cuz of this & EVERYTHING starts with #1). With #6 firing, clock the intergear so the dist tang can be clocked so the rotor facing rearward & slightly toward the drivers side which lets you maintain the OE plug wiring diagram which lets them lay the neatest with the shortest lengths possible & helps prevent future mistakes. First put the dampener at 15 BTDC #6 compression, then turn the housing till the magnet is dead even with the tooth with the #6 cap terminal/plug wire above the rotor. EDIT regarding rotor tip to cap terminal alignment, the can will shift the rotor position in relation to the cap terminal above it (Rotor Phasing) CCW (on a SB) from the at rest (no vac on ported at idle) position