Re: SEM on interior parts
[Re: Stanton]
#2133853
08/15/16 09:16 PM
08/15/16 09:16 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,255 Columbus, GA
Michael Ecks
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,255
Columbus, GA
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I've found it holds even better on soft parts. It will of course come off if it is scuffed repeatedly, but doesn't flake off with age like it does on hard plastic, at least hard plastic with chalking areas.
Prep... It's been a while but I think I scrubbed my seats good with purple power, then with Dawn and water, and finally a couple of wipes with water before allowing to dry thoroughly.
I think they also make an adhesion promoter, "Sand-Free" or some such but I've never used it.
"The happiness of your life depends upon the quality of your thoughts" ~ Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius
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Re: SEM on interior parts
[Re: Stanton]
#2133973
08/15/16 11:49 PM
08/15/16 11:49 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157 Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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So far I've used SEM on some hard plastics parts and I'm impressed. How does the stuff hold up on stuff like dash pads? Any prep tricks? I've found that color retention, abrasion resistance, and clean up is even better if you topcoat with one of the following SEM products during the color change/redye, by using either SEM Low Lustre,Satin or Gloss clear coat depending on the desired finish, the Low Lustre clear is the most natural appearing of the clear topcoats for interior colors, invisible to the eye, yet preserves color retention and aids against scuffing esp on light colors
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Re: SEM on interior parts
[Re: Stanton]
#2134523
08/16/16 06:33 PM
08/16/16 06:33 PM
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,367 Iowa
burdar
Owen's Dad
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Owen's Dad
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,367
Iowa
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I have a couple of questions on shooting the clear over the color on plastic parts: 1. Do you have to do scuff up and clean the color again to remove contaminants prior to clear coating? 2. If it's been a few days since doing the color, what prep work do you recommend prior to shooting clear? - probably same as #1 question. 3. Do you just put 1 light coat of clear? Apply the Adhesion Promoter per the instructions on the can. I believe you spray one light coat and wait 5 minutes. Then one med/wet coat and wait 15-20 minutes. Then you can start spraying light coats of color. If you spray light coats, you don't have to wait very long between coats. Spray 1 or 2 light coats of clear after you have 2-3 light coats of color on the piece. You don't let the color completely dry before spraying the clear. I like Landau Black for plastic interior parts. I use Trim Black for metal parts and plastic parts that aren't in the interior.
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Re: SEM on interior parts
[Re: Stanton]
#2134752
08/16/16 10:31 PM
08/16/16 10:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,871 Central Florida
larrymopar360
Stud Muffin
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Stud Muffin
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 15,871
Central Florida
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I've used SEM sprays on steering wheels, dash pads, hard plastics and door panels and it has always held up very well. Super high quality stuff, imo.
Facts are stubborn things.
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Re: SEM on interior parts
[Re: Stanton]
#2141590
08/26/16 11:51 PM
08/26/16 11:51 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938 Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
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That's exactly how SEM recommends it. Its not for color changes on carpets, its for restoring the original color.
I love how the stuff lays down - wish all spray bombs were that good. I've used SEM on all surfaces including armrests, dash pad and rimblow center cap rubber and dash. I couldn't be more pleased. My paint jobber had me use POR Marine Clean to wash the parts to be painted. Then follow up with SEM Sand Free to prep the surface and give it teeth. Then I go 3 coats of SEM Color Coat. If I am changing color from black, I always shoot a couple thin coats of SEM white Color Coat. It covers the black and really makes your color POP. Sorry. I'm a little bit proud of my work. Only car I've ever done to this extent.
Last edited by Big Bad Bee; 08/26/16 11:53 PM.
I’m listening.
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