OK, straight up has anyone here installed Bilstein ride leveling shocks and 35" tires on the original 20" wheels on a newer Ram. Looking through Ram forums is maddening. 61 pages and no straight answer.

Depends how new you're talking. My 05 is torsion bar front, I've heard multiple times 35" tires fit okay on the stock wheels, torsion bars may need to be cranked up a tad to clear in normal driving. I think when they went to coil front you can do a coil spacer instead, just like with the Jeeps.

what year are you asking about? what model of Ram are you asking about?

While I didn't do the work because I bought the truck already done, but my 06 cummins 4x4 has a level kit and I believe a slight lift. it's running 35" tires on 20" rims.

what exactly are you wanting to know? If you're asking about the bilstein shocks only, I can't help you there, because mine is done with either spring spacers, or new springs.

It is a 2014 with the coil overs. Most guys are in agreement that Bilsteins are the way to modestly level the front and not damage the suspension. What doesn't seem to get answered without some type of twist is with the front leveled can the truck take a 285/60R20, 295/60R20, 285/65R20 or even a 295/65 R20. No goofy offsets, spacers, grinders, hammers, holes cut or after market wheels. Just plain and simple, lift the front 2" and what is the most satisfying tire to mount on the stock rims. Is it the stock size? One thing besides rub to consider is that the factory set up has the tire right at the edge of the fender well on the outside. If a wider tire is mounted would it require flares to keep the road grime from slinging all over the body?

Ordered the Bilsteins. Once installed then I'll figure out the best tire for the factory 20s. For sure the tires will be eventually Toyo Open Country AT IIs.

I am a member over at Ramforum, and they have some pretty good info over there. Don't quote me, but 285/60/20s fit no problem, I think 295 60 or 295 65 is the most you can go without scrubbing. Are you setting the bilsteins at 2.1 or 2.8?

Initial and hopefully final setting will be 2.1.
Yea 285/60 is a sure bet at .5 taller and .4 wider than factory
295/60 is .9 taller and .8 wider- still sounds safe
295/65 jumps on up there to 2.1 taller and .8 wider- sounds risky but maybe not.
There is 20 mm between the factory tire and the a arm so any of these widths would clear there not considering sidewall flex.

How did the Bilsteins work out for you? I have a 2011 1500 that needs to be raised a couple inches in the front, just wanted to make sure this was the way to go.

The shocks are great. Installation was not a problem. Set the adjustment to the position second from the top and it put the truck dead level. Next are the tires.

dfsmopars,
I just posted a topic here in the truck forum regarding this. I just completed a 2.8" Bilstein level with 35s on stock 20" wheels. I am very pleased with the results. There is also a breakdown of the parts and some pics.

Thank you, I appreciate the response. Truck looks great.

Update. Went with 275/65R20 Toyos. On the conservative side. Fills in the fenders better. Much better look than Wranglers. This tire is a little over 34". I like it because I drive it every day and pull a camper. When these wear out I may be ready to put 35s on it.

Rear

Ram 1500 with leveling kits conjurs up thoughts of tow ins with broken ball joints. Just seems to be an amazing coincidence I guess....

Bilstein shocks are not a leveling kit. They do not comprimise the geometry of the front suspension.

We see a lot of upper ball joint failures with leveling kits. The added height causes an excessive side load on full extension. Once that happens the upper joint actually push out of the upper arm. Zone and a few others make upper control arms to prevent this from happening.

They most certainly are a form of a leveling kit. How else do you think the truck gets higher in the front/leveled out? Any form of lift changes the geometry. The newer 1500 upper arms are weak and the upper ball joints will bind as the angle has changed with the extended drop in the suspension. Just google upper ball joint failures with leveling kits.

Something I remember in my research last Summer, the general consensus is if you stay under a 2.5" lift the factory components are safe. The Bilsteins go from something like 0.7" to 2.8". My understanding is throwing a 3" block on top of the shock tower is where the trouble begins. If I got bum information I guess I'll find out in a few years. I put about 8,000 miles a year on my truck so it may take a while.

It does not matter if you space the strut, replace the strut with an adjustable, raise the torsion bar, or preload the spring. They are all methods to raise the truck changing the geometry and side loading the upper ball joints on suspension extension. Some get away with it and some dont get off the hoist.