I looked around for quite a while to figure out what to do for my next motor to prep it for a little abuse (can you say "Autobahn"? ;-) ).

There is a lot of info out there, but I did not find an easy to follow "how to" with working pictures. I closely followed the "Stroker build and block oiling mod question" thread. This is what me and my friend Robert (who owns a machine shop) came up with after some internet reasearch and several hours at his shop to discuss and take pics.

All ideas and some pics stolen from other people by Florian and Robert in 2016.

Ideas:
Provide as much oil as possible at high rpms, so work the suction side of oil pump like the factory did for the Hemi
Distribute sufficient oil to main and rod bearings equally to keep main no. 4 and corresponding rod bearings alive longer than stock

Provide sufficient oil to the heads full time

Provide only as much oil as needed to the cam bearings to leave as much as possible for the mains and rods

Material:
2 pcs. Restrictor-Kits Moroso part no. 22050; use only the smaller plugs, discard large ones. They are 5/16“-18 und have a 1.3mm hole out of box
Tap ½”NPT for oil pump pickup
Tap 5/16“-18 for restrictors
Optional: tap 1/4NPT
Optional: plug ¼“NPT
Optional oil pump with external conenctions:

http://store.440source.com/Billet-Aluminum-External-Oil-Pump-External-Filter-Version/productinfo/200-1102/

https://www.atechmotorsports.com/parts/mil-21235

Procedure:
-Drill and tap for 1/2" NPT pickup (Hemi pickup)
-Port suction side of pump and block (open all holes to inner diameter of pickup, port-match pump to block, round corners as far as possible)
-Bore or ream all main oillines on pressure side to 9/16“ from pump all the way through to main oil gallery and port-match block and oil pump
-Drill new connection between main oil galleries and oil feeds to heads (1/8“ or larger), to provide oil to heads full time directly from main oil galleries; plug hole to lifter valley, for example with 1/16"NPT plug.
-Drill oil feed from main oil gallery to mains number 2 to 5 to 9/32" all the way through.
-Install restrictors in bores from main saddles to cam bearings; drill restrictors to .080" (2mm).
-Install cam bearing no.4, so oil feed holes to heads are blocked; make sure oil feed FROM main to cam bearing is still open 
-Add restrictors to heads. Restrictors should be installed so they can be removed without pulling the heads. Drill restrictors to .080“ (this is very conservative).
Other Values I found for those restrictor holes: .040"; .050, .062, , .073" (Moparts member said workes for him with bushed ductile iron rockers and 50wt heavy oil)

Watch out: Each head has two oil holes; either install two restictors per head or mark heads for left and right bank. 
-Optional: open cross passage between right and left main oil gallery at rear of block to 3/8“, respectively 7/16"; use ¼“NPT plug accordingly

Drill and tap for 1/2" NPT pickup („Hemi pickup“); if necessary move hole to get more „meat“ around the boss.

[img:left]1 pickup by Florian Scherer, on Flickr[/img]

Port suction side of pump and block (open all holes to inside diameter of pickup, round corners and port match pump and block)

[img:left]http://2 oil pump suction by Florian Scherer, on Flickr[/img]

Open all oil runners on pressure side between pump and main oil gallery to 9/16" (14.2mm) all the way, round corners and port match block and pump
3 oil pump pressure by Florian Scherer, on Flickr

intersection hole 1/8“ (or larger) through head oil feed into main oil gallery, plug hole 1/16"NPT (both sides of valley); make sure plug does not stop flow to the heads by being too deep

[url=[url=https://flic.kr/p/K1PDkC][/url]4 head feed by Florian Scherer, on Flickr[/url], on Flickr

Oil holes to the heads obviously on both sides of valley
[img:left]4 head feed 2 by Florian Scherer, on Flickr[/img]

Open feeds from main oil gallery to mains number 2 to 5 to 9/32” (7.2mm); do not drill feed for no.1 main.

5 main feed by Florian Scherer, on Flickr

Install restrictors in ALL feeds TO the CAM bearings (from the mains). Drill restrictors to .080” (2mm)

6 main to cam transfer by Florian Scherer, on Flickr

Install no. 4 cam bearing, so original passages TO HEADS are CLOSED, but passage from main to cam bearing is still open; quick + dirty alternative: install with all passages closed and drill feed from main


[img:left]7 cam bearing alignment by Florian Scherer, on Flickr[/img]

Install restrictors in heads (so they can be removed by just taking out the rocker shaft). There will be some grinding involved…. Attention: Each head has two of those oil feed holes. Either install restrictors in both or mark heads for left bank / right bank


[img:left]8 head restrictors by Florian Scherer, on Flickr[/img]

Optional: open cross passage between left and right main oil gallery. Open passage to 3/8” and 7/16” respectively and use 1/4NPT plug on passenger side


[img:left]9 cross passage by Florian Scherer, on Flickr[/img]

You need to make sure that the bearing clearances allow sufficeint oil flow to cool the crankshaft and valve springs at substained RPM like the roundy rounder motors do and make sure the oiling system has enough oil volume in it to not allow the oil pickup to suck air at any time Many of these mods where done to bandiad the original problems, not enough oil volume in teh oil pan, hence the addition of the Accusumps and other pressurized external oil reserviors I'm not a big fan of the 1/2 inch oil pickup mods on any of my street and strop motors, but I don't run the motor at or above 5000 RPM for more than 30 seconds either
I do remeber being passed on the Autobahn by a Mercedes with a BMW on it rear bumper flashing it lights at or above 130 MPH back in 1968 near Frankfurt and Hanau Crazy bunch of Hermans

Oil cooler and large road race pan are a must for me anyhow ;-) With some internal block detailling to improve oil return to pan this should work.

I just wanted to put together a "how to" for the internal mods with pics. As I could not find one. there was one on big Block Dart, but the picture links are dead.

I am open to feedback about oil flow to the heads to cool valve springs. I think the .080" restriction to the heads is pretty small. But that was the LARGEST I found!

Greets
Flo

I make my own oil fow restrictirs out of either # 6 or #10 Brass set screws and then open them up to the size I want. You have to drill and tap the oil passages for them so I do, the rocker arm oil passages can be done fairly easy, same thing on if you want to put the restrictor in the oil passage in the heads instead of in the block I had one old SS 440 motor that the Rod Shop had built originally, they had used the brass set srews in the oil passages between the main bearing bosses and the cam journal bosses with around a .030 hole in them, I wouldn't do that on the #4 cam journal oil passage though if I had modded the oil passage to the heads to restrict oil to the heads BTW, I do groove the #4 cam journal on the cam to oil the rockers full time on all my roller cam motors to help oil the valve springs full time That ends up making the differences with the rocker arm type on the size of the restrictors, bush or extruded aluminum rocker arms don't need as small of a restrictors as the full needle bearing roller rocker arms do Same thing on the valve springs, high pressure solid roller cam springs need a lot more oil on them than a non solid roller valve spring will need at the same RPMs

The procedure I describe does not use the grooved cam bearings and does not "steal" from no.4 main. that is part of the whole deal.

Oiling mods depend on the head and the rocker arms. For example, if you use T&D rocker arms you can oil thru the pushrods and then you don't need all of those block mods. Indy heads oil externally so once again you don't need to do all of the block mods.

I understand most of this is for stock / 440 source / Edelbrock heads.

I would still think most of those mods are useful when the ehads passage is blocked off completely though! Limit flow to cam ebarings and increase total oil flow.

Keeping oil around the oil pickup can be help by using a crankshaft scraper which also frees up some HP above 4500 RPM You need to keep in mind that some of these mods are really old and pertain to the BB that use to have oiling issues cause by other problems like insuffecient oil supply in the pan to provide suffeceint oil volume to help keep parts cool For extended RPM usage make sure and use full groove main bearings also I like and use the Federal Mogul,Seal Power brand narrow full groove truck main bearings, RB part# 4095M and low deck part # 4094M