I want to take off the oem iron heads and replace them with alum 452 heads. I've looked @ what is available, and decided the mopar alum 452 heads are my best bet. Is it that easy? Off with the old, on with the new. I'll be using the same bolt-ons.

Is there a reason you want to use open chambered heads instead of closed?

That's as easy of a swap as there will be.
The only other parts you'll need is a set of arp head bolts.

The MP 452 head is just an Ede rpm closed chamber head with straight plugs and core plugs in the ends.

aren't those the most expensive, least desired head choice? All of the new aftermarket heads have accommodations for "bolt ons". I'd probably go with stealth heads before mopar 452's. The only thing you'll gain is weight savings.

They are the most expensive of the "OE replacement" type heads.
But if you want American made with straight plugs, those are pretty much the only choice.

Other than price, I wouldn't say they are any less desirable than a set of rpm heads(since that's what they are), and depending on which headers you have, or stock manifolds, they might be more desirable for a particular set of needs.

Personally, I'd rather have the MP 452 heads than a set of stealth heads.

What are you trying to gain by swapping heads?

when you pull the heads, measure how far in the hole you are/valve relief CC's/gasket compressed thickness (if going back together with the same type, alum might change that) & CC's of both head types (everything needed) to see what your actual SCR gain will be. I'm assuming that you're in the hole far enough that quench ain't even possible

Yes, the MP 452 Alumin Heads work great with straight plugs.



And they take the same CNC porting as the Ede

Daytona Turbo-I'm running 906 heads.
Stumpy-the purpose is get rid of my junky 906s. They've been milled repeatedly; three manifold bolts don't torque down b/c of being stripped; I believe gravity is holding down one valve cover b/c of stripped bolts. Basically, it's time to retire the 45 year old iron and go 21st century.

I opted for these heads as fast68 stated b/c they suit my needs (I think).
Cam is a Comp 268AH-10 w/ .464 lift, duration 222*I/226*E duration; lobe separation is 110*; recommend install @ 106*; actual install @ 105*.
The pistons are even w/ the block; CR 9.5/1. Manifold is the Mopar dual plane aluminum. I'll be using all these parts again.
If this helps:3.55 gears, 727.
Timing is 18* in the dist; 36* total
So, I believe my setup is best suited for the 452s.

All you need is the heads, head bolts, and gaskets.
Thats a decent upgrade, It should run noticeably stronger with the new heads.

Duh- forgot headers 1 7/8"
Holley 3310 750

The only possible "issue" I see from the info you posted is, you said the 906's have been milled a lot.
If you don't have an adjustable valvetrain, and are using custom length pushrods, those may not work with new, unmilled heads.

Valvetrain is adjustable iron ductile roller tips; adjusters have 2-3 threads showing. I agree about the pushrods. I've got them on my "be prepared to buy" list. But final assembly brings on all the details.

I run the aluminum 452 heads on my '65 Coronet for the same reasons. I use HP exhaust manifolds and the Edelbrock heads had angled plugs. After melting a few plug wires I sold the Eddy heads and bought some 452 heads.

If you have zero deck all you need are .039" thick head gaskets for perfect quench. It might even tolerate 87 regular fuel if the CR winds up in the low 9's.

Don't use the 1009 Felpro as they overhang the huge chamfer most big blocks are cursed with. For a 9ish:1 engine the .039" gasket that comes with the "regular" Felpro kit works well.

Make sure to send the heads out to a competent machine shop to verify guide clearance and fix the valve job while they are in there. No such thing as ready to go OOTB.

Kevin

Adding to this post; re-posted to give an update rather then give a summary of it.
Waited too long to buy the aluminum 452 heads from Summit; original selling price was about $950 per head back in the fall; price has gone up to $1400 per head making them not a good option to purchase. Was following the Promaxx thread posted last week(?), but it was not informational enough to answer my questions. Did appreciate one Moparts member stating the heads are a quality cast and made in USA.
Question 1: are they factory bolt ons? My goal is to drive the car! Not looking for speed, maximum flow, HP, or torque.
Ok, now for some soul searching. All the information about heads, and types, and work needed on them, and pros and cons has made me indecisive & slightly crazy. Need some guidance Moparts!
Question 2: have any of you purchased bare heads, & swapped your old valves and valve springs in the new heads?. Springs are Comp 928(?) 105/280; cam is Comp21-305-4, 268AH-10. Valves and valve springs have 11,000 miles on them I like this idea b/c of cost factor, but it opens a new can of worms. I see the potential to have the machine shop say, "well, some valves weren't able to lap to fit well", or some other such problem occurs (I'm officially beyond my skill set in this department). Now I'm chasing valves and valve springs and the car sits longer.
Or, is the wiser course to buy completely assembled heads. Pull them out of the box, send to a machine shop to get checked & cc'd, and install, and drive the car.
The Promaxx look like a good deal for the $$$. Closing comment-heads will not be ported. Also, any other pertinent info is appreciated!

Have you considered the Indy EZ heads? Unlike Indy SR heads, they don't have raised exhaust ports and they don't require special headers. Just a thought...
Good luck.

Most of the after market aluminum replacement heads use 11/16 valve stems, not 3/8 like Ma Mopar used on all the iron OEM heads
Your old valve springs may work with the new heads and valves with the proper valve spring retainers and keepers, maybe not The installed height, pressures and coil bind distance need to be looked at first before deciding

Promaxx cast,made in America ? dont think so. so I fixed my missing X

Promax are heads made or imported (not sure which) by that crook Ben Gorman in Indianapolis. The ones (iron SB) he sold me as genuine Australian EQ's were actually chinese knockoffs. Promaxx is a different company entirely.

I'll add with the goal of keeping (near) stock fit, the Edelbrock RPM or Stealth heads seem the best choice.

Starting with 906 heads the closest aluminum replacement would be the open chamber (88 cc) Edelbrock head. Closed chamber and quench would be nice but that depends on the compression ratio and other aspects of the engine.

I think the assembled Ed head with valves and springs is the best deal. With a moderate cam, the supplied springs should be fine. The valves are good also.

It is worth getting the valve job and valve to guide clearance checked/corrected by a good shop IMO.

The Promaxx heads are not the same company as Pro Max carbs in Indianapolis.
The company used to be called Patriot Heads.

The Promaxx heads are imported(Chinese) castings, with American guides installed over here, and the heads are finished and assembled at their facility in Alabama.

The only head that's like an edelbrock head for a bb mopar, that's made in the USA.....is the edelbrock head.

There are a few other USA made heads, but they aren't really "direct replacement" type heads.

Shameless plug...... I have some new-in-box, prepped, bowl blended Sidewinder heads listed in the for sale section.

Csk & Rapid Robert-thanks for the info on the Promaxx heads; was unaware of all info you shared. Got some misinformation on Promaxx.
Cab_Burge-that info helped me to go w/ heads assembled. As stated, looking for easy swap w/ minimal downtime.
Will be doing some research here on Moparts into Edelbrocks & Stealth heads. Thanks to all for your input!!