Hey everyone, after years of posting here and taking advice from everyone for my planned built I finally began getting to work on something cool. For those who haven't seen my build thread, the setup goes something like this:

340 bored .030 over, half filled, factory forged crank, Eagle rods, Speed Pro pistons
Ported W2 heads that flow just a hair under 300cfm's at .600 lift
Ported Indy 360 manifold
ATI D1SC Procharger
Front mount intercooler
Running it all on E85 through a 727 and 4.10 rear.

Wont be sure of exact compression until I tear the motor apart (mocking up piping first before I do that) but I am guessing with the W2's it'll fall somewhere around 9:5-10:1 . A little on the high side for boost, but from what I have seen it should be fine on the corn fuel.

I'm not looking to spend $500 on a custom cam, I was hoping that there would be something off the shelf that would work for my application. The springs in the W2 heads were set up for a roller cam with up to .650lift. My block isn't set up for a roller cam so I was going to run a flat tappet (hopefully hydraulic but solid if that's what it takes to make these valve springs work).

What would you guys reccomend for this setup? I want to keep my power band somewhat low with the boost as I don't think that short block isn't going to take boosted 7500rpm runs.

if you design your own cam, a flat tappet comp cam is less then $200, a roller is less then $350 and you will have it in under a week.


Joe

I'd go roller. Comp will custom grind you a cam and get it to you in 3 days

You should know what the spring pressures are before
you do anything... if they are the MP springs.. trash
them... my W-2 said good to .650 lift... when tested
they were more for a mild hyd cam

I think Crower list cams for blown cars?

I would not use a hydraulic lifter on your combo. Engine acceleration rates go up quick with a blower.
You have a decent head and a great choice for a blower. The engine should really make some steam. Don't handicap yourself with a hydraulic lifter.

Thanks everyone, I would love to go roller but what is going to be required to get a roller cam/lifter to work in this block? I am quickly going out of budget (I tore the motor apart today to find that it had Eagle SIR I beam rods and not the H beams I thought it had, I don't want to push those I beams so far so it looks like I am going to be dropping a lot of money on new rods and balancing)

Mr. P body, I will definitely check but the forum member that sold me the heads had been running a .600 lift cam and had his 2800 pound A body into the mid 9's on the springs so whatever he had in there was working well for him. The heads start to fall off after .600 lift anyway so I don't think I'd be going past that point. It's a street car as well that only sees a little track use so I am not too concerned with getting every last hp out of it, just as much as I can but still be streetable/reliable. I figure the boost will do the heavy lifting lol

TRENDZ, why not hydraulic? I understand going roller for the ramp rates but without turning any crazy rpm's or running any super high boost numbers you don't think a hydraulic would work? Just curious as it would make life much easier for me to not have to be adjusting valve lash.

http://www.crower.com/camshafts/mopar-do...cam-304-hc.html

Taking 451's advice I found this on Crowers site. With the 1.6 rocker arms on the W2's I can get a little more lift out of it. Think this cam is going to leave a lot of power on the table?

You already know the answer to that question.

I def wouldn't use a hyd cam in it, but if I "had" to come up with something it would be a Crane H-302-2.
I don't know how quickly you'd be able to get one though if you can't find one on a shelf somewhere.

I'd put a solid in it.

Definitely not doubting what you guys are saying about going solid roller, just wondering why? Don't throw stuff at me, but most of my knowledge is with Chebbies, specifically Gen 2 LT1 stuff (not much different than gen 1 SBC though). I had a 590whp procharged 383 working fine with a hyd roller using factory GM lifters and another 396cid stroker with a custom grind comp cam right around .600 lift that made over 650 to the tires with hyd roller (again, using GM lifters) and never had any issues. You actually don't see too many guys at all running solid cams with those motors, just wondering why the LA motors are different? Is it something to do with base circle or lifter size that makes them less able to make big numbers with the hydraulic stuff?

I really don't mind going solid, just a little more maintenance but not the end of the world and it won't cost me much more money now which is important. I'd love to reap the benefits of a roller with the more aggressive ramps but I'm not so sure about a cheap way of converting this block to a roller lifter. .

I think we need to clear something up......
When you said "hydraulic", I assumed you meant hydraulic flat tappet.

If you're talking either solid roller or hydraulic roller, that's a (slightly) different story.

Solid roller lifters for mopars are generally less $$$ than hyd roller lifters......all the other stuff costs about the same between the two.

And yes, I'd still go for the solid(or solid roller).

I have a solid flat tappet cam, couldn't afford a solid roller, and didn't want a bronze gear.


Never had have any luck with hyd cams.


950whp turbo sb.

I think that might be the way I am going to go, although the springs in the heads now were set up for a roller so I am guessing that may be too much seat pressure (I'll know real soon when I check).

I REALLY want to go solid roller, but $350 for the cam and $400 for Hughes solid roller lifter conversion makes it one hell of an expensive cam swap. I'm thinking I can do a solid flat tappet and lifters for easily half that cost. Of course, if the seat pressure is too much for a flat tappet then I'll be pretty close to the cost of a solid roller when factoring in new springs.

Given the choice with your combo:
1) solid roller
2) solid flat
3) hyd roller
4) hyd flat

Yup