Hi, both of mine are leaking. Want to make sure a shop is in the ballpark. How long will it take and what is a fair flat rate for them to quote, assuming no other issues. Estimated total cost including parts??
I had a backyard guy do pinion seal last year. Paid about $400 and still leaks like a sieve. Not going back to him..

You PAID a backyard hack $400 to change an $8-18 part ???

When you say pumpkin seal do you mean the gasket between the chunk and housing ?

If the yoke is scored/rusty where the seal rides it's never going to stop leaking. Is the dust shield still in place , what case number is it ?

One more thing , are you SURE it's the pinion seal ???

It could be leaking out thru the yoke splines and from under the pinion nut washer ...

John, it is a 742 3.23 posi unit. It had a drip from somewhere so I cleaned the vent tube. It has progressively worsened and now leaves a good puddle after a few weeks of sitting. I have refilled.
I don't like working under cars on jack stands and rely on mechanics for this kind of work. I also have never pulled axles and worry about getting it back together properly/setting axles right. I actually have not cleaned it and cannot pinpoint the leak and will get some brake cleaner and go to town to try to. I am just preparing for a worst case and thought those two would be worst case. Obviously the case could be cracked, etc.. Puddles in two spots a few inches apart, so may have multiple issues.
The backyard guy was a Ford tech for 20 years but has about 8 old Mopar projects in his backyard in various states. A good friend vouched for him, but I did not say "change the pinion seal". I said, fix my leaking rear end. Fail..

I doubt the case is cracked , they are pretty robust.

Is it leaking worse now than before Mr. Ford tech worked on it ? You have a big leak that should be fairly easy to find if it's leaving a puddle big enough that you have to refill it .

Mr. Ford tech owes you money ...

I will clean it and then post pics. Rear functions well with no noises.
I know he owes me and I am not taking my Mopar back. If my '70 Bronco ever needs work I will take it and ask for a discount.
For a house in the city in Northern Va, he has some big time cars rusting outa stuffed in a small back yard. A 440-6 Roadrunner, a 440 cuda, a few Charger R/Ts. All outside, under covers, but probably beyond repair. They are toast..
I should try to handle this as I just finished a first time head swap (Edelbrock head/CH4B) successfully. You may have seen some of my first timer questions from that one. All wrapped up and just looking for drop base air cleaner base that will allow my stock lid..
This is not a job I would want to do twice, and I know I can screw up rear if preload not set properly, which I have no idea how to do.

I edited my post , I meant to ask leaking , not working.

Setting the axle bearing preload is somewhat intimidating the first time but if you did a head swap it's not above your skill level. It's just tough humping the chunk in and out of the housing. All you need is a dead low hammer and a Dial indicator with a mag base. Gaskets are easy to get, but if the rear has never been apart it's a good time to change seals and regrease the bearings ..

I don't think you're going to get anyone to do that job at flat rate and even if they did they would have to have some old books to even quote the time.

There is no flat rate on a 49 year old car. It is now time + materials due to age, rust, and incorrect prior repairs. $400 to have it leak worse is a rip off.

If it leaks sitting there it is either the pinion seal or gasket between housing and third member.

I appreciate the responses. What I initially wanted to ask was estimated time and materials but thought someone would chime in and give the flat rate. I really just want a guess on how long, worst case with stubborn bolts, etc. it would take to fix the pinion and housing seal on a 742..

Flat rate on a pinion seal would be about .8 hr. If you had to drop the center section to change the gasket, I'd say about 2.5 hours MAX. Both axles would have to be removed to get the pumpkin out.

I am able to swap a third member in 35 minutes with a hoist and air tools. That was on my own car that was clean and been apart before so no surprises. I'll agree with 2.5 hours for,the seal and housing gasket.

THat is great input. I will let everyone know what the shop says.
Can I reach the torque needed myself with a 1/2" torque wrench under a car by myself laying on the ground?

200-250 lbs? Not likely. How big / heavy are you?

Where do you need 200ftlbs on a 8 3/4 rear end?

742 calls for 240ft lb

Wow, ok I am 170 and throw around some weights but that isn't happening. Shop it is.

I don't see why you couldn't attain that torque setting under the car , I've done it , use the ground to support the yoke holder that you use so you can get 2 hands on the torque wrench.

thinking part of the job here should include verifying where the leak is coming from. Get some brake clean and rags and make it grease free. Leaking just sitting makes me think the chuck to housing seal isn't so good.... but you need to verify that there isn't an oil trail leading from the pinion area. 8.75 at proper level should have no oil sitting at the seal area at rest.

742 also runs shims on the pinion so it's not like you have to worry about the crush sleeve like the 489. Actually when I do pinion seals on those we'd just mark the nut and the end of the pinion and put the nut back to it's original position.

I am going to clean it up tonite. Some housing bolts are crusted over with goo. Will lay down paper and trace it..
I am always freaked out when pushing hard on anything with car on jack stands. Just weird claustrophobia, fear of mine of getting trapped under there...

If the pinion seal is driven in until it seats, it's going to leak due to the chamfer on the yoke. Make sure whoever changes it is aware of this.