As the thread states, I have a fresh built 440 that has been sitting under my workbench for 7 years. I am still about a year or two from having the engine in a running car. I am wondering if it is ok to put some conventional oil into the engine, prime the oil pump and rotate the whole assembly by hand 4 or 5 turns with a breaker bar just to coat everything with some oil and to move the tension on the valve springs. When it goes into my duster I will use actual break in oil to start the engine and drive it. What would be my best course of action for this engine until it goes in a car?

If it was mine, I'd remove the heads n relap the valves. I know of a situation where a friend bought a car that sat for 10 years. He changed all fluids, fitted a new battery n it went. He thought all was good but months later he had some burnt valves. We put it down to rusted seats since the rocker gear was still intact n valves would have been held open allowing rust to start on the faces. But that's just me.

I'd add the breakin oil now & preoil hitting the two sweet spots: #6 TDC compression then turn dampener 3/4 turn CCW (#8 firing & preoil some more) or easiest would be to first get the rotor on #8 then pull the dist/intergear & preoil then turn dampener CW till the slit hits zero on the timing tab then preoil #6. No thoughts on the rust potential but I would want to release the pressure on the springs by pulling the rockers & maybe having a spring or all of em checked or maybe just one that is currently compressed & if it OK then the rest of em should be plus getting under the valve cover would let you visual for any rust. EDIT that HF borescope has been a Godsend when I need it

Go ahead and prime it and then do a leak down test on all eight cylinders to find out if the rings and valves are good I have a motor in the shop I put together in 2002 or so in SO CA before moving here to Bend in 2005, it is sealed up and leaks down good Running them is a lot better than letting them sit but what are you going to do in situation like we have here when you don't want to drive the toys in the wet and snow in the winter

Yes, good call. I think I will put the break in oil in it, put it on and engine stand and fill it with oil and then rotate it around so the oil covers all the internals and then let it sit for a few days before I turn it by hand and then check compression. (friends dad had the engine built for me as a wedding present well before my car was ready for an engine and I have since bought and sold a few project cars). Definitely had the cart before the horse but I can't say no to a free engine

Put in your break in oil and start priming it
first thing... then slowly rotate the crank...
after that then do the leak down

Sounds good. I am putting together the engine stand tomorrow and will add the oil to the engine after I put on my big block oil pan (going in my duster so I have to use my low clearance steel one). After it sits for a few days I will get a compression tester kit and check the readings. I double checked and looks like craftsman has a good quality one for $65 that has a ton of different adapters versus some of the others that had only one or 2 different adapters.

Do your self a favor and buy a leak down tester also
and run both test... do a compression test then squirt
a few squirts of oil into each cyl and do the test again
this tells you how the rings are along with the valves...
then do a leak down on it.. you need to pull the rocker
shafts for this one so the valves are closed... you can
try to hold the piston on DEAD top center but it might
blow down to bottom... test it there... it will be good
enough

It may have already been said, but I would get some fogging oil and pull the plugs, then fog the cylinders along with priming the oil system before moving the motor at all. If it has sat that long the rings and cylinders may be dry.

It may have already been said, but I would get some fogging oil and pull the plugs, then fog the cylinders along with priming the oil system before moving the motor at all. If it has sat that long the rings and cylinders may be dry.

If the engine was properly assembled with assembly lube on bearing surfaces and some type lubricant on the cylinder walls, it's fine. It doesn't go away. If I knew it was assembled right, I wouldn't do anything to it other than maybe give it a shot of something in cylinders to keep moisture out.

Also you say you are installing a pan. So you will be able to SEE if the cylinders are clean or have surface rust. You could also pop a cap off and have a look. Personally I think adding oil and priming it is a waste of time if it appears assembled correctly. If upon inspection it appears to have rust or is dry, it needs to come apart anyway..........so

You are not doing a compression test on a motor out of a car. How do you intend to spin it fast enough to make any compression? A leak down test on a fresh motor is also useless. It hasn't been fired, how could the rings possibly be seated?

Guys also comment on rocker gear holding springs and valves open. This is in no way, shape or form harmful to the springs. Springs fatigue with USE, not sitting in a static position. It's spring steel after all. The rocker gear on the motor leaves valves open, which opens some cylinders up to moisture if plugs are not in. Also has valves off seats which is a source of surface rust...........but it doesn't hurt springs

Thanks for the post Monte,my motor hasn't been sitting 7 years (maybe 5)but you stated what I always thought to be true...I always listen when you talk...Ahh type lol.

How is the climate in your garage? Is it heated and dry, attached to the house indirectly heated? Does it get wet in there in the winter?

I would not use fogging oil at all, it could adversely affect the ring seal when first fired up. Put break in oil in and prime it like Rapid Robert & Pbody says. Leave the leak down & comp tests for something that needs it.

It has no plugs in it because it has never been fired but I will find some fogging oil and squirt it down. Would it be the same if I squirted oil into the spark plug holes and then let it sit for a few days before I rotate the assembly?

I didnt realize that its gonna be a year or more before
you get the end in... but I sure would prime it.. and
once you get it to turn over... then spray in fogging oil
then put plugs in it and cover up EVERY opening on the
engine... then bag it and if you can find those dry bags
that suck up moisture put some in the bag... if it didnt
have plugs in it, it will most likely have rust in the cyls