...it's been asked a million times before, go read other threads...I get it, and I have. But I'm getting conflicting suggestions. Mainly, from Mancini where I bought their billet rear main cap with the 4 side seals (2 on each side).

Where exactly do you put the sealant?

I always heard you loaded up the side seals with them, but when you push the cap on, the fit is so tight the sealant slides right out the top and seems pointless. I'm definitely using the side seals and not just tossing them and loading the grooves up with silicone like mentioned in other threads I read.

A rep at Mancini recommended NOT putting silicone (contrary to the instructions) on the side seals but instead putting vaseline on the side seals so they go in easy and the engine heat would burn off the vaseline after it was started the first time. Is this correct?

Also, do you put any sealant on the surface of where the cap mates up to the register in the block?

Do you put a small dab on the end seals?

I do have the seal halves offset just a hair like mentioned in the other threads.

I'm just paranoid and don't feel like having to mess with this again once the engine is in the car.


Thanks for any help

ask all you want brother, that is what we are here for is to solve ours' and others' issues. I would put sealant under the seal halves where they rest in the half moon recesses (reasonable amt) and a slight bit on where the ends meet and a VERY slight coat on the holder to block mating surfaces & you can either use sealer on the sides of the seal holder in lieu of the side seals or use the seals & coat them with sealer then wipe off the excess when you push the holder in place either or side seal with no sealer & none is better than the other & people do em either way of the three to effect a barrier that the oil cannot pass. #1 clean the excess & you want no pathway for the oil

In the past week

What I did the first time with my Mancini Billet Retainer

Installed both half seals parellell or flush with the block . No black rtv on the sides of billet retainer , I would of thought that was the purpose of the o-rings , you know to seal the sides . Anyways

A dab of black rtv on top where the o-rings slide into the small holes and then wrap over the sides

Used the alignment pins supplied , had everything in place . Torqued down the bolts to 30 ft #

Used superformance gaskets on new 402 oil pan and factory wind age tray

THE REAR MAIN SEAL LEAKED WORSE THEN THE ONE IT REPLACED , Ugly Even Just At Idle



So a few days later , everything apart again

This time , Clocked the rear seal halves at 12 and 6 on advice of my engine builder

Then I took the billet retainer dry , and slid it down the alignment pins to see where the seal halves would align in relation to the billet retainer , remember seals clocked at 12 and 6 , seal lips facing towards the front of engine

Everything looked very nice

Kept and still used the o-rings in place , however a nice swipe of black rtv down the sides of billet retainer over the o-rings , and again a small amount of rtv on those corners. And yes , some rtv got swiped off when sliding down the retainer against the block over alignment pins

Just make sure those o-rings get started nice and even on both sides without getting pinched
The black rtv will actually act like a lube when sliding up the retainer , went together flawless

Another word of advice , make sure everything is very very very clean and oil free where the black rtv is used . Block and retainer

Used a little oil where the actual seal contacts the crank

Did not use rtv or anaerobic sealer on the actual seal ends themselves or where the seal halves sit inside the billet retainer


Waited 24 hours , fingers crossed , fired it up and waited and waited and waited

Two days of back and forth to Iola WI

Honestly not one single drop , drip , smear or smudge

SWEET !!!

I really appreciate it guys.

bee1971...I LOVE your car. Would love to see more pics of it..

I do have a couple of questions about the seal halves:

1) When you say clocked at 12 and 6, are you saying the seals were halfway in and halfway out of the block...rotated 90deg from having them parallel with the block/cap?

2) With the engine in the car (assuming you didn't pull it) how were you able to rotate the seal below the crank? Did you loosen the main caps or will it rotate with a little persuasion?

Mine sticks out of the block maybe 1/16"-1/8" at the most. I'm not sure how I could rotate it more without loosening the main caps and I'm hesitant to do that because I've never done it before.

Also, my engine is still sitting on the stand...so I'm probably acting a little more cautious than I need to be...

Thanks so much.

Never touched the main cap

When you slide the first half in , yes the bottom is at 6

You can just move the seal over on the crank very easily to slide the other half in

Then it's just a matter of mating both halves at 6 on the bottom

That why I did a dry fit with the retainer , making sure the seals where perfectly matched on the bottom and then centered with the billet retainer


Great thread I found after the fact believe it or not while I was crossing my fingers for 24 hours

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...dal-update.html

Yes , when your laying on your back with the transmission still in place

You don't have the luxury of seeing how the seal halfs mate together with the factory retainer or any retainer in place for that matter like on a engine stand

That's why 1/8" offset or the suggestion of clocking at 12 and 6 came into place I would think

Thanks

Right now I have the bottom seal installed, under the crank. So I guess I don't know how I can rotate that seal so that the ends are at 12 and 6 instead of 9 and 3 without lifting the crank. And even if I could, how would I ever get the other half seal started without lifting the crank some?

I did look at the seal lips and it looks like it's contacting the crank good on both sides.