Re: 383 piston with 440 crank and rods
[Re: Moparnut426]
#2105908
07/07/16 09:32 PM
07/07/16 09:32 PM
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 490 IL
EchoSixMike
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mopar
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IL
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mallory at my local shop is ridiculous, like 100 bucks a slug If that's with labor, that's the going rate here in Chicago. It's kinda a PITA to put heavy metal in right. S/F....Ken M
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Re: 383 piston with 440 crank and rods
[Re: EchoSixMike]
#2105916
07/07/16 09:55 PM
07/07/16 09:55 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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mallory at my local shop is ridiculous, like 100 bucks a slug If that's with labor, that's the going rate here in Chicago. It's kinda a PITA to put heavy metal in right. S/F....Ken M Thats the price I paid installed... had 3 chunks put in.. always from the sides
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Re: 383 piston with 440 crank and rods
[Re: Moparnut426]
#2106024
07/08/16 01:06 AM
07/08/16 01:06 AM
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 609 Boise
Moparteacher
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mopar
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I put a 440 crank in a 383 25 years ago. I had the counters turned down to clear the pistons and the block. I used beam polished 383 rods and modified TRW pistons. This was before cheap stroker kits were on the market.
I cut .175" off the top of the piston and trimmed the bottom of the pin bosses. It shaved about 200 grams off each piston.
The TRW l2315f-30 slug still had well over .2" of material in the center and thickened up considerably as you moved out towards the ring lands. In fact, the centering hole in the middle of the head on the forging used to mount the piston on the lathe was still visible.
The crank took at least six slugs of mallory and over $1k to finish and balance.
Just sayin' save a little on the pistons and rods now may cost you more in the long run when it's time to balance.
Last edited by Moparteacher; 07/08/16 01:07 AM.
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Re: 383 piston with 440 crank and rods
[Re: DARTH V8Я]
#2106202
07/08/16 12:48 PM
07/08/16 12:48 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,008 Finally a HUSKER again
Moparnut426
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[censored]... positive .179 LMFAO. Sorry
That shows a 1.5 compression height, THe pistons diamond makes, and the one I listed is wrong. I posted the wrong number before.... Fits: Big Block, 383 w/440 Rod Bore (in): 4.280 Stroke (in): 3.750 Rod Length (in): 6.768 Piston Material: Forged aluminum Piston Style: Flat Top Compression Distance (in): 1.320 Dish Volume (cc): -4.0 Pin: .990 x 2.930 Piston Ring Grooves: 1/16" x 1/16" x 3/16" Quantity: Sold as a set of 8
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Re: 383 piston with 440 crank and rods
[Re: Moparnut426]
#2106225
07/08/16 01:24 PM
07/08/16 01:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,008 U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
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I Win
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that puts me at .025 in the hole I have to do the math , it shouldn't be that deep , have you had the block squared yet ? If not do it FIRST , order piston in the bore size you need and tweak the CH
running up my post count some more .
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Re: 383 piston with 440 crank and rods
[Re: GTS340]
#2106360
07/08/16 06:12 PM
07/08/16 06:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,376
dogdays
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I repeat: Complaining about 20 grams in an engine that came stock with piston/pin assemblies that were over 1000 grams is hilarious.
Yes I know the generally accepted balancing formula for V8s. Take 40 grams off the piston/pin and the 20 grams goes away, IF the extra weight is concentrated at the big end. If it's the result of a slightly heavier than stock rod beam then it'll be less than 20 grams. Lightening the rod journal would be my fix, like Chrysler did on the 340.
Suggesting someone will need Mallory because of an extra 20 grams in connecting rod weight is pure and simple "putting up a straw man to knock it down". That doesn't fly at the debate club and not here, either.
R.
As for the Chinese lying about metal composition, if they are indeed trying to do that, it's why we aren't buying directly from them. The middlemen, i.e. the Eagles, Scats, 440Sources, RPMs, Hughes, etc are doing the due diligence. They have to keep tabs on the product or else go out of business. That shouldn't be too hard to understand.
Last edited by dogdays; 07/08/16 06:18 PM.
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Re: 383 piston with 440 crank and rods
[Re: dogdays]
#2106454
07/08/16 08:08 PM
07/08/16 08:08 PM
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 403 Romulus, MI
GTS340
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mopar
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Romulus, MI
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Yes I know the generally accepted balancing formula for V8s. Take 40 grams off the piston/pin and the 20 grams goes away, IF the extra weight is concentrated at the big end. If it's the result of a slightly heavier than stock rod beam then it'll be less than 20 grams. Lightening the rod journal would be my fix, like Chrysler did on the 340.
Suggesting someone will need Mallory because of an extra 20 grams in connecting rod weight is pure and simple "putting up a straw man to knock it down". That doesn't fly at the debate club and not here, either.
R.
Aren't you an engineering professor? A data driven field where ASSumptions can yield catastrophic results? How do you know what bobweight his current crank was balanced at? Yes the rod is 20 grams heavier total, it also has a .104 smaller wrist pin bore, who is to say the rod is not 85 grams heavier than a stock rod on the big end? My point is no one in this thread has the data to determine if the crank will balance out fine or need mallory and no need to call in the debate team
Last edited by GTS340; 07/08/16 08:12 PM.
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Re: 383 piston with 440 crank and rods
[Re: Moparteacher]
#2106576
07/08/16 11:41 PM
07/08/16 11:41 PM
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 490 IL
EchoSixMike
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mopar
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Posts: 490
IL
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I put a 440 crank in a 383 25 years ago. I had the counters turned down to clear the pistons and the block. I used beam polished 383 rods and modified TRW pistons. This was before cheap stroker kits were on the market.
I cut .175" off the top of the piston and trimmed the bottom of the pin bosses. It shaved about 200 grams off each piston.
The TRW l2315f-30 slug still had well over .2" of material in the center and thickened up considerably as you moved out towards the ring lands. In fact, the centering hole in the middle of the head on the forging used to mount the piston on the lathe was still visible.
The crank took at least six slugs of mallory and over $1k to finish and balance.
Just sayin' save a little on the pistons and rods now may cost you more in the long run when it's time to balance.
For reference. I'm putting a 452 together right now using a factory 3.75 440 crank. Because I have parts laying about. I took .120 off the counterweights with a lathe, and still had to heavily bevel the edges and grind the block for clearance. Using a 1.12 CH Icon piston(IC827-granted, super light) and a Manley 6.965 hemi rod(heavy thing like 960 gms IIRC), the bobweight is just over 2320grams, I have to take over 180 gms off the crank on both ends still. A 1.200 inch piece(what commonly fits in BB cranks) of 1 inch diameter Mallory adds something like 120gms gain to a crank. I'm at home of else I'd actually look. 6 pieces is roughly +300gms on either end. I find that incredibly hard to believe on a wedge build...any wedge build. I think you got sodomized by the guy balancing that crank, or maybe they went crazy when turning the CW's. S/F....Ken M
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Re: 383 piston with 440 crank and rods
[Re: EchoSixMike]
#2106727
07/09/16 10:24 AM
07/09/16 10:24 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 12,008 Finally a HUSKER again
Moparnut426
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OP
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For reference. I'm putting a 452 together right now using a factory 3.75 440 crank. Because I have parts laying about. I took .120 off the counterweights with a lathe, and still had to heavily bevel the edges and grind the block for clearance.
Using a 1.12 CH Icon piston(IC827-granted, super light) and a Manley 6.965 hemi rod(heavy thing like 960 gms IIRC), the bobweight is just over 2320grams, I have to take over 180 gms off the crank on both ends still.
A 1.200 inch piece(what commonly fits in BB cranks) of 1 inch diameter Mallory adds something like 120gms gain to a crank. I'm at home of else I'd actually look. 6 pieces is roughly +300gms on either end. I find that incredibly hard to believe on a wedge build...any wedge build.
I think you got sodomized by the guy balancing that crank, or maybe they went crazy when turning the CW's. S/F....Ken M We figured were gonna have to take .150 to clear. I sure hope cause Im having a hard time finding a machinist who wants to do it. They all seem scared to make the cut. I told them all its no big deal, I wish I had a lathe good enough cause I would do it myself but the one I have access to is way to outa spec and would sing like a canary if I chucked it up.
Last edited by Moparnut426; 07/09/16 10:43 AM.
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