Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working.
[Re: sgcuda]
#2083872
06/01/16 03:31 AM
06/01/16 03:31 AM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318 State of confusion
Thumperdart
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318
State of confusion
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Hopefully that translates to a good hookin/handlin car.......
72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
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Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working.
[Re: sgcuda]
#2083875
06/01/16 03:41 AM
06/01/16 03:41 AM
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,096 Australia
ozymaxwedge
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,096
Australia
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Well done mate, it's looking great.
1963 Plymouth Max Wedge 1971 Barracuda
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Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working.
[Re: sgcuda]
#2087442
06/06/16 11:39 PM
06/06/16 11:39 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243 Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
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Got the brackets for the trans crossmember welded in this weekend, although I might swap out the dropped crossmember for a straight bar, since the engine and trans are sitting higher than expected. Ladder bar diagonal link is finished, also. Got the majority of the X brace between the trans crossmember and the ladder bar done. One more section left. I also figured out my welding problems. Evidently, the AllStar tubing I have been buying through Summit is not only coated on the outside with oil, but I found out the tubes are coated on the inside. The oil on the inside has been boiling and steaming out through the gaps, giving me fits. A little brake clean and some air went a long way to fixing that problem.
[image][/image]
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Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working.
[Re: sgcuda]
#2087593
06/07/16 08:54 AM
06/07/16 08:54 AM
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 369 Indy
496 A-body
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 369
Indy
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Got the brackets for the trans crossmember welded in this weekend, although I might swap out the dropped crossmember for a straight bar, since the engine and trans are sitting higher than expected. Ladder bar diagonal link is finished, also. Got the majority of the X brace between the trans crossmember and the ladder bar done. One more section left. I also figured out my welding problems. Evidently, the AllStar tubing I have been buying through Summit is not only coated on the outside with oil, but I found out the tubes are coated on the inside. The oil on the inside has been boiling and steaming out through the gaps, giving me fits. A little brake clean and some air went a long way to fixing that problem. Kenny, DO NOT use brake clean before welding anymore! When heated it will create phosgene gas and it can kill you! You need to stick around to enjoy the fruits of your labor.
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Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working.
[Re: 496 A-body]
#2087601
06/07/16 09:56 AM
06/07/16 09:56 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,548 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,548
north of coder
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Got the brackets for the trans crossmember welded in this weekend, although I might swap out the dropped crossmember for a straight bar, since the engine and trans are sitting higher than expected. Ladder bar diagonal link is finished, also. Got the majority of the X brace between the trans crossmember and the ladder bar done. One more section left. I also figured out my welding problems. Evidently, the AllStar tubing I have been buying through Summit is not only coated on the outside with oil, but I found out the tubes are coated on the inside. The oil on the inside has been boiling and steaming out through the gaps, giving me fits. A little brake clean and some air went a long way to fixing that problem. Kenny, DO NOT use brake clean before welding anymore! When heated it will create phosgene gas and it can kill you! You need to stick around to enjoy the fruits of your labor. POSITIVELY CAN'T BE EMPHASIZED ENOUGH !!!! please guys, DO NOT EVER use brake kleen to clean joints before welding !!!
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Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working.
[Re: sgcuda]
#2088001
06/07/16 10:22 PM
06/07/16 10:22 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243 Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
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OK. I'll make sure I don't forget this one. I'm so glad they changed the chemical composition of brake clean to help out the birds and the frogs. FYI, with the heat and humidity here, I wasn't doing any welding without everything being bone dry. How about cleaning out the tubing with rubbing alcohol?
[image][/image]
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Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working.
[Re: sgcuda]
#2088023
06/07/16 10:49 PM
06/07/16 10:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243 Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
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I can use acetone even if I don't have nail polish on that day? All kidding aside, I appreciate the valuable input from you guys, once again. The outside is easy enough to clean with soap and water, but the inside of the tubing is coated in oil as well.
[image][/image]
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Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working.
[Re: sgcuda]
#2094162
06/18/16 10:41 PM
06/18/16 10:41 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243 Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
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Well, X brace is in, but I mounted it flush to the top of the frame rails, and I think I am going to have an interference issue with the driveshaft. I meant to mount it low, but forgot. Will probably end up cutting it out and putting a new X brace in lower in the frame. Added doubler tabs on the trans member mounts. Changed to a straight tube for the trans and still have to add a mounting pad. Painted the ladder bars and axle housing. Cut the front cross braces out from the frame to the rocker bars, so that I can fit in bent tubes to clear the headers. Man, that C/M tubing is tough stuff. Went through 3 Dewalt SawZall blades before I broke out the grinder with a cutoff wheel. Right side header fits better than I could ever build. Left side fits like crap. Touching the frame rail, seriously pointed down. Not sure yet if I am going to modify it or just build my own left side header.
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Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working.
[Re: sgcuda]
#2103495
07/04/16 11:42 AM
07/04/16 11:42 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243 Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
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Thinking about a set of side exit headers. Probably exit through the lower fender in back of the front wheel. Does anyone have any experience with them? Do the exhaust rings really work as far as keeping the fiberglass from burning? Do those collector exhaust cones help keep the noise down without sacrificing too much power?
[image][/image]
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Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working.
[Re: sgcuda]
#2103812
07/04/16 07:11 PM
07/04/16 07:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243 Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
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Trying to get back on track. Set the tranny height to get my driveshaft angle close. Adjusted the ladder bars to get the pinion angle in line, too. Mounted the body back on, ran some jigs to keep the steering column and pedals in line. Then I unbolted the assembly from the firewall and weighed it. Another 35 pounds. Will probably mount a race steering column kit and pedals to the cage. I like the idea of the reverse mounted master cylinder, too. Just make an access panel on top of the new dash for fluid fill.
[image][/image]
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