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OK! No more BS. Time to start working.

Posted By: sgcuda

OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/22/15 12:34 AM

After my mother-in-law passing away this week, I decided that life is too short to procrastinate on everything you want to do. So the garbage got thrown out, everything else got put in a spot, the Cuda finally saw daylight after, I don't know how long, bath and up on jack stands. Tomorrow, measure, measure, measure, disassemble and measure.

Attached picture ground zero.png
Posted By: ProSport

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/22/15 12:48 AM

I wondered what happened to that car. Glad you're back on it.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/22/15 01:07 AM

Measured frame rail widths. Front rails are 33" on the inside where the notch is to clear the header tube. Rear backhalf is 31" on the inside. Headers are 28" on the outside. Going to cut right in front of the notch and go straight back to the ladder bar crossmember, and stay 1/2 above the rocker sill (stock rails are about 1" lower than rocker sill from front wheel well opening to transmission crossmember). New trans crossmember and driveshaft loop crossmember will get added. Old loop member is welded in and creates issues when removing trans. 4 speed input is very long.
Posted By: Dragula

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/22/15 04:10 AM

That will buff right out...
Posted By: MadMopars

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/22/15 04:35 AM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
After my mother-in-law passing away this week, I decided that life is too short to procrastinate on everything you want to do. So the garbage got thrown out, everything else got put in a spot, the Cuda finally saw daylight after, I don't know how long, bath and up on jack stands. Tomorrow, measure, measure, measure, disassemble and measure.



Sorry to hear about your mother-in-law. frown The car looks like a fun project, everyone else's stuff always looks more fun than mine though.biggrin Is that the same car that's in your signature pic? If so, what was your reason for tearing it down in the first place?
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/22/15 06:16 AM

Well, I got in a bit of trouble some years ago, so I sold the car to a co-worker. After sanding it down and sitting out in the weather for 2 years, I was able to buy it back. Not quite the same shape as before, but at least I got it. I wasn't happy with the first attempt, homemade front end, so that got torn out. Engine in avatar was almost done, until I got some new ideas.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/22/15 10:31 PM

Well, disassembled and pulled the rear end out today. Internals look great.

Attached picture axle.png
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/22/15 10:33 PM

But serious damage was just around the corner on the right side. Something weird causing the right axle shaft to move around. The inside of the drive studs started to cut through the wheel cylinder. Could have been nasty.

Attached picture axle wear1.png
Attached picture axle wear 2.png
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/22/15 10:38 PM

Measured both axles flange to retainer, drivestud distance, checked for differences in wheel cylinders, mounting studs for retainer, backing plate depth. Checked axle bearing registers, heights, etc. The only thing I see is that there is a grease line around the seal on the right bearing where it oozed out a little. The left bearing is sparkling clean. Could the rollers in the bearing be worn? It had to move over .100". I didn't notice any motion when I tore it down. Going to call Moser during the week to see if they could shed some light.
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/23/15 04:43 PM

Glad to see you're getting it out and working on it again Kenny! Sorry about your MIL...tell Diane I'll be thinking about her.
On the axle...take a good look at the machined surface the bearing is pressed onto. It must be worn and letting the axle/bearing slip in and out...IF the bearing itself is still in good shape.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/24/15 02:27 AM

Thanks, Chip.
Nope. Bearing isn't walking on the axle. I think the inside step on the race is worn. Changing both axle bearings.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/26/15 04:37 AM

Thinking of going with a set of outlaw bars. Anyone use them yet? Any other companies make them at a better price?

http://chassisengineering.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=25_223
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/26/15 04:55 AM

Does anyone have a coupon code for Chassis Engineering???
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/27/15 01:54 AM

Figured out axle problem. Housing was deeper than bearing thickness, plus gasket thickness, plus backing plate thickness, allowed for .150" motion. Will fabricate up shims.

Ran a ride height line along the side of the car and set the rear slicks in place. Setting up for about 4" ground clearance in the front and 6" in the rear. Significantly lower than before. For the first time, the lower ladder bar will actually be able to adjust above and below parallel to ground.

Attached picture ride height 3.jpg
Attached picture ride height 2.jpg
Attached picture ride height 1.jpg
Posted By: 496 A-body

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/27/15 02:34 AM

Hey Kenny, here are some outlaw bars at a better price

http://smithracecraft.com/index.php?page...rt&Itemid=1
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/27/15 02:56 AM

Thanks, Neil.

They look as good as the chassis engineering piece, minus the coil over brackets. I'll give them a call and see if they have a bracket upgrade.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/28/15 11:52 PM

So, I have come to the conclusion that when in your 20's, since priorities are sex and alcohol (and not necessarily in that order) maybe welding should be left to the more experienced. Finally repaired/redone/finished the parachute mounting crossmember. My level of expertise at that time was "Make sure the snow plow doesn't fall off the front of the boss's tow truck!".

I'm getting close, Chip. Take a good look at the pic. Your going to be seeing this view a lot this summer. beer

Attached picture chute mount.jpg
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/30/15 08:09 PM

I should hope so Kenny, but remember mine looks the same as yours. biggrin Only you can see my mufflers, small tires, and license plate from the rear. smoke
Just let me know when you're ready to TRY. biggrin
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/05/15 10:48 PM

I had the motor pro built while I did the chassis and suspension back in the late 80's. Not knowing anything about coil overs, I went through an extreme learning curve, including 1 time veering off the track on a 2-3 full power shift. Didn't wreck, minor damage, but knocked out the mirrors in the headlight buckets. Never got around to putting them back after I sorted out the suspension... until now.

Attached picture front end.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/05/15 10:49 PM

And here's my pit crew

Attached picture pitcrew.jpg
Posted By: LSP

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/05/15 10:57 PM

Cool car, stick going back in it?
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/05/15 11:08 PM

Thanks. Yes. Gears are going back to Libert for overhaul. Not sure if just going back with pro shift rings or maybe upgrade to face plate. Haven't talked to them yet on price difference. Going to also put on a Passon aluminum case, tailhousing and side cover.
Posted By: FastmOp

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/05/15 11:13 PM

I like it !
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/05/15 11:16 PM

I have red and yellow LED bulbs that I was going to use for a street project, but I think I will install them in the Cuda. They are the old 1157 style, so I could put the high elements on during the day. Should look cool.
Posted By: hemi-itis

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/06/15 04:12 AM

Lookin GOOD! scope
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/06/15 05:38 PM

I could use some input for front bumper alignment. Anyone have any front end shots of their cars? My Unlimited Fiberglass bumper never really fit right. I don't know if the bumper is supposed to overlap the lower part of the grill and the valance at the same time. The angle of the bumper never really matched the angle of the front of the car. The center of the bumper is tight against the car, but the ends droop and are wide from the fenders. Might be time for a replacement. Any recommendations?
Posted By: 496 A-body

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/06/15 07:11 PM

Can't go wrong with Glasstek or AAR/Stinger
Posted By: ProSport

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/06/15 09:16 PM

Nice Duster!! ^^^
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/06/15 10:29 PM

Today's project. The wheelie bar brackets were welded on at a slightly wrong angle. By the time I got the pinion angle right, the bars were only an inch or two off the ground. Tightening the adjusters made the bars look like a bow and arrow. Tires being fairly worn and poor shock adjustments, made them slap so hard, you could see smoke on the 3-4 shift. Oh well, didn't need those anyway.
So, I modified the brackets and got the adjustments right. Axle is on a 15 3/4" centerline height. Housing is level. Wheelie bars are 8" off the ground with 2" of adjuster threads showing.

Attached picture wheelie bars.jpg
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/07/15 06:11 PM

Sent a couple pics to your email to help w/ the bumper.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/08/15 02:35 AM

Thanks, Chip.
Look what was on the Chrysler technical website this morning.

Attached picture chrysler site.JPG
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/16/15 04:47 AM

Talked to Josh at Smith Racecraft today. Ordered custom cut Triple Adjustable Ladder bars, diagonal link and crossmember kit. Great guys. Gave me a great price. Not sure if they will be in time to go under the Christmas tree. Oh well. Pics to follow.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/20/15 02:28 AM

Got metering blocks, throttle plates, axle cover coming in for Christmas. Axle cover is Strange piece in black. My question is: do I paint my rear housing in black or in silver? I thought that the silver contrast would look different. Will be painting the ladder bars black. Rear shocks for now are Koni (red) but will probably be upgrading to Summit or QA1 aluminum pieces. Frame rails, springs will be black.
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/21/15 03:36 PM

I'd paint the rear black. Check w/ Viking for shocks.
http://vi-king.com/
Posted By: Alchemi

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/23/15 09:24 AM

Anything welded or known to crack, silver or white
off color lateral lines along things that twist - tail shaft/diff tubes

Easier to spot issues, may save $$ and time
Posted By: ProSport

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/23/15 08:04 PM

I think satin black looks great on most everything underneath a car.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/24/15 02:44 AM

Either way, silver or black, I was going to clear coat it afterwards. Lighter colors to shows early signs of fatigue sounds like a good idea. But who really checks stuff like that. If it cracks, I'll find out on the next run. Black is always a killer look, but everyone and their brother has it painted black. First, I'll put the 4.10's in and clean the housing. Maybe purple??? Santa
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/29/15 06:05 AM

Finally got my Christmas present!

Attached picture dana cover.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/01/16 06:07 PM

Back to the axle bearing issue. Will probably be upgrading to rear disc brakes. That means the drum brake backing plates will be removed, taking .100" of motion out of the equation. Should fix the issue. My question is, where does the Wildwood rear brake caliper bracket attach to the housing flange? From the back or front of the flange. If it attaches from the front (axle shaft side) I'm guessing that I will have to grind the drive studs pretty short. Does anyone have a pic of the bracket on their rear axle?
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/04/16 01:01 AM

Running out of room, quickly, in the garage.

Attached picture cuda project 1.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/04/16 01:06 AM

Got some Harbor Freight flapper wheels. Makes short work of removing rust. Door bars cut out for more room. Floor is out. Measuring up for new frame rails. Rear rails are on 33" centers. New rails will go front to back on 26 or 27" centers.

Attached picture cuda project 2.jpg
Attached picture cuda project 3.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/10/16 02:59 AM

Well, on cold rainy days like this, I find inside jobs to do. I've been modifying my carbs, with some great guidance from ThumperDart. I purchased some metering blocks and throttle plates from SpeedMaster. I'm just going to say that after hours of inspection and modification, I've decided not to use these pieces.

Throttle Plate Issues: 1) Pivot shafts for pumps are smaller than Holley, which would be ok if I was using the supplied arms, but I have 50cc pumps on the secondaries. Thread pitch is different, so you must retap to use Holley pivot shafts. 2) Blade screws are generic, large head, with lockwashers underneath and blades do not close properly, no matter how I've tried to adjust them. 3) Holes for main body are extremely large, center holes are not drilled.

Metering Block Issues: 1) Emulsion air bleed jet threads not drilled on center of flats. 2) Too much material around main jet bosses, fuel bowls will not center up. 3) Nylon inserts in idle mixture screw holes act as threads for needle valves, no threads machined in metering blocks. Again, needle valve pin holes not drilled on center.

On the plus side, I have found everything to be machined square, nice anodizing. I do like the secondary stop screw linkage also.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/24/16 01:10 AM

Snow days. Good day to get some work done.
Got one of my carbs done today. Thanks to ThumperDart for his expert guidance.

Attached picture carb1.jpg
Attached picture carb2.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/24/16 06:45 PM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
Snow days. Good day to get some work done.
Got one of my carbs done today. Thanks to ThumperDart for his expert guidance.


Don`t know about expert but glad I could help and thankxx for the vc`s............ thumbs
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/27/16 04:08 AM

Finally got my ladder bars, diagonal link and crossmember from Smith Racecraft. Holy Crap!!! This stuff is absolute max killer. I don't think a rocket launcher attached to my car would even flex these things. And, boy, Racecraft doesn't skimp on making sure you are ready to go. Safety loops are double layered. Axle brackets are 1/4" full tube wrap profiled with lightening holes, with shock mount holes and what may look like wheelie bar holes also. They even give you a new set of lower shock mounts with hardware. Ladder bar front mounts are profiled with lightening holes also. All joints are what look like Teflon heim joints. I'll post pics on the weekend side by side with my old school Alston ladder bars. This looks like smurfs vs. King Kong. The only thing I'm pissed about is now I can't put this killer setup on my crappy old rusted Dana housing. Glad I didn't make up a race budget this year, it's about to go right out the window.
Posted By: TheTieWrapKid

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/27/16 04:33 AM

Looks like no more BS to me! Great stuff !
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/31/16 01:21 AM

New ladder bars from Smith Racecraft (Home of the Assasin Bars)

Attached picture ladderbars10.jpg
Attached picture ladderbars8.jpg
Attached picture ladderbars9.jpg
Attached picture ladderbars7.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/31/16 01:24 AM

More Pics

Attached picture ladderbars6.jpg
Attached picture ladderbars5.jpg
Attached picture ladderbars4.jpg
Attached picture ladderbars1.jpg
Posted By: pittsburghracer

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/31/16 01:55 AM

Nice to see someone getting something done. I worked on a set of AFR chevy heads this week and that about it. I gotta get out of this funk.
Posted By: moparx

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/31/16 02:19 PM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
New ladder bars from Smith Racecraft (Home of the Assasin Bars)


what brand were the old bars ? reason i asked is the diagonal link with the clevis mounts[3/8" bolts yes?] look a lot like the junker i replaced on my setup when i fabbed up a 1" bar with 5/8" heims and 1/4" front/rear mounting brackets.
beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/31/16 05:00 PM

The older bars are Alston, from the 80's.
And I have a question for you guys. These axle brackets are full wrap, 1/4" thick. They seem to be more like four link brackets than ladder bar brackets, meaning ladder bar brackets are normally a half shell mount. Does anyone see any problem if I either cut a notch out of the back or just cut them in half, install and weld everything back in place on the rear? The only other choice would be to but a housing with loose ends and install the brackets first. I would prefer to get a housing with the ends welded in place already, but I realize that might not be an option.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/01/16 02:30 AM

Carbs are done. Just have to mount linkage and decide on fuel system. Leaning towards a Magnafuel pump and 4 port regulator with return.

Attached picture carbs.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/01/16 02:36 AM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
Carbs are done. Just have to mount linkage and decide on fuel system. Leaning towards a Magnafuel pump and 4 port regulator with return.


Lookin good man............... thumbs
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/01/16 02:45 AM

Thanks to you...
I might need someone to test them out since my car won't be ready for a little while. drumhit
If nothing else, I might make up a test run stand since all I have left is installing the pushrods and rockers and shortening one oil line.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/01/16 04:00 AM

After I get the most out of this combo and if I keep the car, I may step up to a t-ram someday............
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/02/16 08:27 PM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
Thanks to you...
I might need someone to test them out since my car won't be ready for a little while. drumhit
If nothing else, I might make up a test run stand since all I have left is installing the pushrods and rockers and shortening one oil line.

I may have a "test car" for this application.

Attached picture road%20runner.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/03/16 12:55 AM

Hey Chip,
Is that the old 509 cam motor beater? Looks real good.
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/03/16 03:18 PM

No, this one has the 446 that the hemi replaced. Heads got sent to Dwayne for the full treatment, new cam, new intake. The only remaining parts from your old motor are the pistons, pushrods, and rockers. The heads and carb got redone.

The 509 cammed 440 is in dad's car w/ the 6 pack setup on it.
Posted By: dvw

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/03/16 03:48 PM

I'd cut the ends off the housing. Blast it so it's pretty. Install the bar mounts. Then weld the ends back on. That way every thing will be square. No worry of warpage when attaching the brackets.
Doug
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/03/16 07:05 PM

Hey Doug,

Tubes are already warped. Ends offset welded. Old brackets are on tubes now, along with shock mounts and wheelie bar brackets. New setup is all incorporated into one piece which is very convenient.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/22/16 12:14 AM

Finally cut the cage out today. It sure is nerve racking to make that first cut on (what I used to consider) a perfectly good cage. But I am glad I did it. That mild steel really adds up in weight. Lots of new ideas for the new build. Since my old frame rails were so wide, I will probably leave them in for support and run my new rails to the inside of them. Remove the old ones after the new ones are welded in place. Going to bite the bullet and run front struts on this go around.

Attached picture cage.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/22/16 12:25 AM

On the plus side, I have plenty of tubing to build an engine runup stand. Maybe firing this beast up will give me a shot of adrenalin to get in gear already.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/22/16 07:40 AM

Looks like a lot of work but you`re gettin it done fo sho man............. thumbs I`m looking for a good used or new low deck t-ram manifold for my junk after I get a few more passes under my belt and hopefully a new best or two............
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/29/16 12:48 AM

Holy $h!t. Grinding off all of those rear axle brackets was a ton of work. I don't think my back will ever be the same again! But it's done. Housing prepped. Ends are now cut off. I have 2" of engagement on each axle shaft, but there are 3" of splines. Is it safe to cut 1" off of each shaft. Moser 35 spline shafts.

Attached picture axle housing.jpg
Posted By: dvw

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/29/16 04:52 AM

As long as the axles don't bottom on each other it won't matter if they're long. If they hit, trim them.
Doug
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/29/16 05:08 AM

I don't think the splines in the spool go all the way through. The axles stop after 2" of engagement. It's not the axle shafts hitting into each other. I'm yanking the spool out Tuesday night. Will get a better view of the inside of the spool at that time. If the spool splines are the cause, I'll find out if my local machine shop can cut the axle shafts down an inch. Tried it on my saw. These things are really hard.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/03/16 06:20 AM

Well, small amount of destruction found. Pulled the spool and ring gear out. Way too many shims on the bearings, case was stretched out. Shims show signs of damage. 2 ring gear bolts are gnarled up, 1 is stripped. 4 broken splines found in spool. This was built by a local shop a long time ago, but never found it necessary to take it apart, until now. This is why I like to do as much stuff by myself as possible. This was supposed to be built with all new parts. I just don't think that happened. Oh well, an order has been placed with Doctor Diff.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/12/16 02:56 AM

Got my new spool, bearing and shim kit, and billet housing ends from Dr Diff. Was able to cut my axle shafts with my grinder, but something is really tight. Guess I'll send the axles out and have them resplined. If something shows up, I'll just get new axles. Found a Nash/Richmond 5 speed on RJ. Bought it with Long 5 spd vertigate and Ram clutch setup. Should have it mid week. In the mean time, I took a couple of vacation days and hopefully I should have the frame rails in by next week, too. Didn't get home as early as I wanted to today, but got to modify a set of collectors. 2 1/8" x 3 1/2" hookers modified to 4". Stock length without primary slip is 12". New collectors are 17 1/2".

Attached picture collectors.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/12/16 05:41 AM

Gettin there homey............ biggrin
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/14/16 03:51 AM

Small mishap today. Cuda fell off the jackstands. Lifted it slightly in the rear and it went sideways off the jack. Minimal damge when car landed nose high in the air and quarters on the ground sideways. Wife came outside. Don't know if she is totally oblivious sometimes or just puts that much faith in me. She just says " I'm going to the supermarket. Do you need anything?" I hope it's the latter. On a plus note, by the time I got the car back up on the stands, the 1/4" twist in the left front rocker sill was gone. Frame rails should be in tomorrow.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/16/16 12:11 AM

Burned up a couple of vacation days and got the frame rails done. One header is done also. The other has to have the tubes reangled. Next weekend.

Attached picture Frame rails.jpg
Attached picture frame rails done.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/16/16 12:31 AM

Damn, where`s the car.......... laugh2
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/16/16 01:22 AM

Crap! I knew I forgot something...
Frame rails are going to be bolted to the rear bumper sill and both rocker sills. The body will be removable. Easier for cage fabrication and upgrades down the road, or if I want to change the body altogether. Plus, I found a lot of dead weight all throughout the car while cutting her up. She's going to be low and light.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/16/16 01:23 AM

I GUESS.............. realcrazy
Posted By: racerx

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/16/16 03:12 AM

What weight and ET you shooting for?
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/16/16 12:52 PM

I was aiming at 2700 lbs race ready, but I think it might come in a little under. Shooting for high to mid 8's.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/19/16 11:48 PM

Got my clutch and tranny. It isn't the box with the center support, or the torsion tube, but it's still a far cry tougher than my Hemi boxes, and it's a 5 speed. Oh, and it came with a long style pistol grip vertigate shifter.



Attached picture DNE.jpg
Attached picture long shifter.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/26/16 11:07 PM

Welded up the Racecraft ladder bar kit, cut the rear down to a final size, and assembled. Tomorrow, the ladder bar cross member and shock cross member will get welded in place. The rear suspension will be in place for mock up only at this point.

Attached picture rear suspension.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/28/16 01:29 AM

Today went along fairly smooth...up until the shock cross member. You would think that this is the most straight forward, easiest part of the whole job. Had shafts in place to simulate race height shocks, ladder bars in place, rear axle in place. Cut tube to length, mount shock tabs, install. Pretty simple, right? Yeah, well, I went to tack the cross member in place, and I watched it roll over the rear axle, even though I had it cinched in place. Leveled and measured, leveled and measured, leveled and measured. Sure enough, get everything tack welded in place, find out the left ladder bar slid on the axle tube 3/8" of an inch inboard. But all in all, a productive day. Decided to stop and continue next weekend.

Attached picture rear suspension going in.jpg
Attached picture rear suspension complete.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/10/16 08:54 PM

Cold this weekend. Plus, nothing really worked/timed properly. Made a spacer block for the TR linkage. Got the dashboard out of the car. Heavier than I thought. 44 pounds, without wiring harness.

Attached picture firewall 1.jpg
Attached picture firewall 2.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/10/16 09:53 PM

You ain`t done yet homey LOTS of metal to remove yet........... biggrin
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/10/16 10:04 PM

Not really much left. Half a firewall and just a bit of the floor.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/10/16 10:06 PM

SYCH...........
Posted By: racerx

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/11/16 02:27 AM

Got the dashboard out of the car. Heavier than I thought. 44 pounds, without wiring harness.

Good time to trim the dash, and put an plastic dash cover in loose some weight. sawzall weld
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/18/16 04:54 AM

Felt off this weekend. Today I came down with something, I don't know. So I didn't get as much done as I wanted. Fabricated rocker rails and mounting brackets. Was going to just sandwich bolt them together, but ended up welding in tubes through the 2x3's and using grade 8 bolts and fender washers to hold to the mounts. The object is to make the body lift off. All assembled, but the brackets still need to be welded to the rocker sills.

Attached picture rocker rail 1.jpg
Attached picture rocker rail 2.jpg
Attached picture rocker rail 3.jpg
Attached picture rocker rail 4.jpg
Posted By: racerx

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/18/16 11:20 AM

This is Hot Roding at it's best sawzall weld(fabrication) thumbs......Good luck with it.
Posted By: 590 Challenger

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/18/16 01:19 PM

She's looking good
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/18/16 06:36 PM

Lookin good man..............hopefully soon you`ll be drive
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/24/16 01:29 AM

Welded rocker rail brackets to rocker sills today. Bolted up rails and tack welded in c/m tubes in the rear. Holds the body from flexing around. Have to get another tank of gas before I can finish them up. Meanwhile, I made a copper ground contact out of an old length of battery cable. I think it is working much better, now. Mig welded axle housing to tubes. Was a walk in the park. Single pass. 150 amps.

Attached picture rocker rail 5.jpg
Attached picture rocker rail 6.jpg
Attached picture housing welded.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/24/16 01:33 AM

I used 1 5/8 x .083 c/m to go from the rocker rails to the main frame rails. I'm pretty sure for 25.4 cert, I need diagonal bars also, and a cross bar on the drivers side. Does anyone know the thickness spec for this? While I'm at it, does anyone have the SFI 25.4 paperwork they want to e mail me for a nominal fee?
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/24/16 02:22 AM

Lookin good man.............I hate you fabrican fools............. bow beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/30/16 05:11 PM

Since I want to make sure this comes out right, I got my own SFI cert book. Wow! Didn't realize how many regulations there are on cage construction. Probably, the best $40 I've spent in a long time.

Attached picture sfi.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 01:22 AM

After a bunch of years, the engine has finally come off the stand and has made her maiden voyage into the engine compartment for sizing.

Attached picture engine in 1.jpg
Attached picture engine in 2.jpg
Attached picture engine in 3.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 01:24 AM

Needless to say, the stock front frame assembly is only there for engine height alignment. All being removed in the very near future.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 02:36 AM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
After a bunch of years, the engine has finally come off the stand and has made her maiden voyage into the engine compartment for sizing.



Nice Kenny and you`re one step closer............
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 05:25 AM

Was wondering if I could recoup some of my expense by selling the dashboard. Is this worth anything?
The good

Attached picture dash 1.jpg
Attached picture dash 2.jpg
Attached picture dash 3.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 05:26 AM

The bad

Attached picture dash 4.jpg
Attached picture dash 5.jpg
Attached picture dash 6.jpg
Posted By: racerx

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 05:30 AM

So what is your pan for a dash? Glass?
Posted By: MadMopars

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 06:11 AM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
Was wondering if I could recoup some of my expense by selling the dashboard. Is this worth anything?
The good




Holy crap, your car is a 6 Pack? shock

Not that it shouldn't be beat on, that's what they were made for. up However, if that's the original Vin for the car make sure you keep that tag if you sell the dash. twocents

Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 04:17 PM

WASa six pack. I bought the car summer of '79 with 32k on the clock. Drove her for about a year. Got my first trophy at National Speedway in Long Island, NY and got the bug. Went into the garage and started racing her in '82. Never looked back.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 04:20 PM

Originally Posted By racerx
So what is your pan for a dash? Glass?


Aluminum. Strictly race. Don't need the extra weight, work, mess of fiberglass.
Posted By: MadMopars

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 07:07 PM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
WASa six pack. I bought the car summer of '79 with 32k on the clock. Drove her for about a year. Got my first trophy at National Speedway in Long Island, NY and got the bug. Went into the garage and started racing her in '82. Never looked back.


Is/Was, that's a debate I'm not getting involved in. laugh2

It's cool to see they are still out there getting beat on and haven't all been "Restored"... If I were you, I'd put that Vin tag back on the car for all to see. Pretty cool man. up
Posted By: 440Jim

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 07:23 PM

That is some major fabrication. Good for you!

I am thinking of bringing my 1973 Barracuda with me when I visit Charlotte in June. Then I can actually race something while there, even though it is a street car.

Jim

Attached picture Cuda11-67_26Mar2016small.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 07:25 PM

That's a thought. Just rivet it down to the aluminum dash. This way, no matter how fast it goes, I'm still going to catch crap from someone for cutting up a factory muscle car.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/01/16 07:29 PM

Thanks, Jim. Let me know when you are going to be in town. I'm sure some of the other guys will get together, too.
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/02/16 02:45 PM

I agree w/ MadMopars...I'd rivet that VIN to the new dash, just for the heck of it. Not to mention, someone would love to get ahold of that VIN and do a "rebody" w/ it. Whatever you do, do not let the VIN tag go w/ the dash if you sell it.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/15/16 02:34 AM

Added most frame to rocker rail members. Still have transmission cross member and connectors when I figure out exactly where to place them. Did all final welding on ladder bar cross member and all other frame connectors. Engine is about 2 1/2" set back. Was able to pull original front frame out of car finally. Man, those rails are pretty heavy themselves. I was trying to aim at 2,700 pounds race ready. I think it might end up somewhat lighter. The two thinner connector are seat cross members. I might put a passenger seat in just for the heck of it.



Attached picture frame.jpg
Attached picture engine in bay.jpg
Attached picture engine in bay 2.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/15/16 05:08 AM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
Added most frame to rocker rail members. Still have transmission cross member and connectors when I figure out exactly where to place them. Did all final welding on ladder bar cross member and all other frame connectors. Engine is about 2 1/2" set back. Was able to pull original front frame out of car finally. Man, those rails are pretty heavy themselves. I was trying to aim at 2,700 pounds race ready. I think it might end up somewhat lighter. The two thinner connector are seat cross members. I might put a passenger seat in just for the heck of it.



Lookin bad azz Kenny, keep up the good work man............. beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/15/16 07:41 PM

Today is a wash. Made some diagonals to go from the ladder bar cross member to the frame. Welder is spitting and sputtering, like I am out of Argon, but it is a brand new bottle. Relocated ground closer in. Same. Gave up for today. Tried to bolt the headers on. Won't clear the connectors from frame to rocker rails. Lowered front of engine an inch. Closer but not good enough. Did some rough measuring. Might have a little wiggle room to lower the trans an inch. Will know better when I put the rear housing back in for fitment.
I moonlight doing computer repairs, too. I have a Windows 7 desktop I'm trying to install updates. All morning, sitting at 0% complete. Of course, needs to be finished today.
And I find out the battery in my phone just went dead.
I decided today is a good day to play with the dogs, and overinduldge in some double stuff Oreo's.
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/16/16 03:05 PM

Originally Posted By sgcuda

I decided today is a good day to play with the dogs, and overinduldge in some double stuff Oreo's.

LOL!! laugh2

Hey, don't throw those stock front frame rails away! I may be able to use them.
Posted By: gregsdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/19/16 02:03 PM

What size short block , cam, etc do you plan to run? Ought to be a blast up
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/20/16 05:18 AM

4.150 stroke x 4.380 bore. Filled block. -1's 345cc ported by Ken Lazzurus. Cat H beams, 440Source domed pistons. Herbert roller Chevy grind. 267/274 @ .050". .765"/.715" with Jesel 1.7 rockers. TRE manifold with modified 850's and ThumperCarb tune. 2 1/8" headers with 4" collectors. Ram clutch, Nash 5 speed, Long vertigate. 4.10's with 14 x 32's but enough room for 16's if they don't stick.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/22/16 03:10 AM

Well, it actually worked. Got the body unbolted and off the new frame. Final welded braces and diagonals. Still have to locate the engine and weld in tabs for the transmission crossmember. Then, move on to ordering a cage. Was planning on welding up rear axle tomorrow, but forgot I promised to service my daughters Honda.

Attached picture body.jpg
Attached picture chassis.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/23/16 01:31 AM

Got the rear axle done, and the Honda. Man, am I beat.

Attached picture rear axle 1.jpg
Attached picture rear axle 2.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/23/16 01:44 AM

Lookin really nice man................ thumbs
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/26/16 02:24 AM

Was talking with my paint guy at the dealership. We both had at least 30 seconds or so to kill, so he started mixing up some color combo's for me. Staying with the purple theme, he mixed up something that I like to call "Midnight Purple Pearl". Something along the lines of the new Charger midnight blue color. My question is, do I paint the frame and cage black or paint the car in and out in purple. Of course the floor pans, door panels, dash will still be bare aluminum. The car won't be getting any stickers, and if anything, just a double pinstripe down the side with "Moving Violation" written in script on the quarters in line with the pinstripe. Going for the street look.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/26/16 02:48 AM

Black frame purple body, how can ya top that............ biggrin
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/01/16 03:19 AM

So I slapped the slicks on to see what everything looked like. I thought I might have calculated wrong and ended up with the car as high as before. Looks like I measured right. And plenty of room for bigger meats, if I feel I need them.

Attached picture new ride height.jpg
Attached picture slick.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/01/16 04:48 AM

How LOW can you go............looks good man..........
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/01/16 04:56 AM

Body will be six inches off the ground, frame will be seven. I can still go another inch lower if I need to. 14 x 32's on it now. Probably will end up with 14.5's, but can go to 16 x 33 flintstones.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/01/16 07:31 AM

Hopefully that translates to a good hookin/handlin car.......
Posted By: ozymaxwedge

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/01/16 07:41 AM

Well done mate, it's looking great.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/02/16 03:46 AM

Thanks, guys. I hope it hooks as good as it looks, too. I'd like it to run like a 160 mph Cadillac.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/07/16 03:39 AM

Got the brackets for the trans crossmember welded in this weekend, although I might swap out the dropped crossmember for a straight bar, since the engine and trans are sitting higher than expected. Ladder bar diagonal link is finished, also. Got the majority of the X brace between the trans crossmember and the ladder bar done. One more section left. I also figured out my welding problems. Evidently, the AllStar tubing I have been buying through Summit is not only coated on the outside with oil, but I found out the tubes are coated on the inside. The oil on the inside has been boiling and steaming out through the gaps, giving me fits. A little brake clean and some air went a long way to fixing that problem.
Posted By: 496 A-body

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/07/16 12:54 PM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
Got the brackets for the trans crossmember welded in this weekend, although I might swap out the dropped crossmember for a straight bar, since the engine and trans are sitting higher than expected. Ladder bar diagonal link is finished, also. Got the majority of the X brace between the trans crossmember and the ladder bar done. One more section left. I also figured out my welding problems. Evidently, the AllStar tubing I have been buying through Summit is not only coated on the outside with oil, but I found out the tubes are coated on the inside. The oil on the inside has been boiling and steaming out through the gaps, giving me fits. A little brake clean and some air went a long way to fixing that problem.


Kenny, DO NOT use brake clean before welding anymore! When heated it will create phosgene gas and it can kill you! You need to stick around to enjoy the fruits of your labor.
Posted By: moparx

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/07/16 01:56 PM

Originally Posted By 496 A-body
Originally Posted By sgcuda
Got the brackets for the trans crossmember welded in this weekend, although I might swap out the dropped crossmember for a straight bar, since the engine and trans are sitting higher than expected. Ladder bar diagonal link is finished, also. Got the majority of the X brace between the trans crossmember and the ladder bar done. One more section left. I also figured out my welding problems. Evidently, the AllStar tubing I have been buying through Summit is not only coated on the outside with oil, but I found out the tubes are coated on the inside. The oil on the inside has been boiling and steaming out through the gaps, giving me fits. A little brake clean and some air went a long way to fixing that problem.


Kenny, DO NOT use brake clean before welding anymore! When heated it will create phosgene gas and it can kill you! You need to stick around to enjoy the fruits of your labor.

POSITIVELY CAN'T BE EMPHASIZED ENOUGH !!!! eek please guys, DO NOT EVER use brake kleen to clean joints before welding !!!
beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/08/16 02:22 AM

OK. I'll make sure I don't forget this one. I'm so glad they changed the chemical composition of brake clean to help out the birds and the frogs. FYI, with the heat and humidity here, I wasn't doing any welding without everything being bone dry. How about cleaning out the tubing with rubbing alcohol?
Posted By: 72Swinger

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/08/16 02:32 AM

What to use them?
Posted By: markz528

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/08/16 02:35 AM

Originally Posted By 72Swinger
What to use them?


Acetone
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/08/16 02:49 AM

I can use acetone even if I don't have nail polish on that day?
All kidding aside, I appreciate the valuable input from you guys, once again. The outside is easy enough to clean with soap and water, but the inside of the tubing is coated in oil as well.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/19/16 02:41 AM

Well, X brace is in, but I mounted it flush to the top of the frame rails, and I think I am going to have an interference issue with the driveshaft. I meant to mount it low, but forgot. Will probably end up cutting it out and putting a new X brace in lower in the frame. Added doubler tabs on the trans member mounts. Changed to a straight tube for the trans and still have to add a mounting pad. Painted the ladder bars and axle housing. Cut the front cross braces out from the frame to the rocker bars, so that I can fit in bent tubes to clear the headers. Man, that C/M tubing is tough stuff. Went through 3 Dewalt SawZall blades before I broke out the grinder with a cutoff wheel. Right side header fits better than I could ever build. Left side fits like crap. Touching the frame rail, seriously pointed down. Not sure yet if I am going to modify it or just build my own left side header.

Attached picture x brace.jpg
Attached picture right header.jpg
Attached picture left header.jpg
Attached picture axle painted.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/19/16 07:33 AM

Lookin great man....... beer punkrocka
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 07/04/16 03:05 AM

Haven't made too much progress. Head not on straight lately, bunch of crap at work. Got the pinion gear installed. Brought home wrong tool kit for spool bearing shims. Put Strange cover on to see how it looks. Got rear suspension painted up and put back in frame. Now to figure out all of the driveshaft angles.

Attached picture rear axle paint 2.jpg
Attached picture rear axle paint 3.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 07/04/16 04:04 AM

Looks great man and can`t wait to see the end result............ beer
Posted By: ProSport

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 07/04/16 05:29 AM

Lookin good!
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 07/04/16 03:42 PM

Thinking about a set of side exit headers. Probably exit through the lower fender in back of the front wheel. Does anyone have any experience with them? Do the exhaust rings really work as far as keeping the fiberglass from burning? Do those collector exhaust cones help keep the noise down without sacrificing too much power?
Posted By: FastmOp

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 07/04/16 05:52 PM

I run my exhaust through the fiberglass hood. I use a ring I made out of aluminum. No issues
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 07/04/16 11:11 PM

Trying to get back on track. Set the tranny height to get my driveshaft angle close. Adjusted the ladder bars to get the pinion angle in line, too. Mounted the body back on, ran some jigs to keep the steering column and pedals in line. Then I unbolted the assembly from the firewall and weighed it. Another 35 pounds. Will probably mount a race steering column kit and pedals to the cage. I like the idea of the reverse mounted master cylinder, too. Just make an access panel on top of the new dash for fluid fill.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/14/16 09:16 PM

Not much to report lately. Slowly, getting back on track. Finally got the nose at least dropped onto the new frame. Need to come up with some ideas to make it quick take off and reinstall.
Heat and humidity is killer today. Internet says 94 degrees, feels like 105. To me, it feels at least 100 degrees hotter.

Attached picture front clip.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/14/16 09:58 PM

thumbs thumbs beer boogie penguin drinking
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/27/16 02:34 AM

So, I got a great deal on a tubing bender setup from Quicktree. But I'm thinking of asking for my money back. I think he might have sold me the mini bender.

Attached picture roll bar.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/27/16 02:50 AM

Just kidding. Quicktree gave me a great deal on a Pro-Tools 105HD setup. Built a practice roll bar that I am going to use as a display piece and try to drum up some local business. Thinking through all of the measurements and bending on the right side of the hash marks is something that will take some getting used to. Tomorrow, I will play with some C/M and see exactly how tough this stuff is to bend. At least I found a local shop that will sell me tubing at the same price as Summit without the "Overlength" surcharge, and has even longer pieces than Summit carries.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/04/16 07:56 PM

Started at 10 AM. By 1:30 main hoop is bent, trimmed, tweaked and tack welded in place. Final bends to get the legs to meet the frame rails took the longest, I didn't want to overbend. Keeping tube level is the biggest trick, but very necessary. Came out straight as an arrow. Measuring, and remeasuring made the final product worth it. The bending was the easiest part.
Now, on to the door bars...

Attached picture Hoop 1.jpg
Attached picture Hoop 2.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/04/16 11:35 PM

Didn't have as much success with the door bars. After tweaking angles several times, determined that I made the window length too long. Cut the lower portion off and made a duplicate, so now I have 2 upper half bars. Still not sure if I like the idea of multiple pieces for the door bar, even though I know everyone says it is fine. Have to think on this one.

Attached picture door bars.jpg
Posted By: Quicktree

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/05/16 10:31 AM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
So, I got a great deal on a tubing bender setup from Quicktree. But I'm thinking of asking for my money back. I think he might have sold me the mini bender.


no problem, i'll just have to charge you for each bend laugh2
Posted By: Quicktree

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/05/16 10:33 AM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
Started at 10 AM. By 1:30 main hoop is bent, trimmed, tweaked and tack welded in place. Final bends to get the legs to meet the frame rails took the longest, I didn't want to overbend. Keeping tube level is the biggest trick, but very necessary. Came out straight as an arrow. Measuring, and remeasuring made the final product worth it. The bending was the easiest part.
Now, on to the door bars...

wow you are doing a great job, not sure I like the angles in on the bottom. I would have made them straight but it probably wont matter once you get the cross bar in. didn't take you long to figure things out up
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/05/16 06:16 PM

Happy birthday Quick................ beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/05/16 07:27 PM

Happy Birthday, QT.
There will be plenty of bars. Building it to certify to 7.50.
Calculating riser bars in the front of the cage to meet up with the lower dash crossbar. Upper door bars will weld to these, also. The riser bars will have a bend outwards to weld tabs in place to support the scattershield.
Posted By: Quicktree

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/05/16 07:40 PM

thanks guys
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/05/16 11:36 PM

Upper half of the door bars is done. Fabricating lower bars. Getting pretty good at being repetitive. It's amazing, no matter how much you measure and adjust, measure and adjust, something always ends up screwy. Never realized that the right side of the door frame is about 3/16" shorter than the left. Not a big deal on a universal fit cage, but when you are building for precision, it's annoying. Anyway, starting to make some progress.

Attached picture door bars 2.jpg
Attached picture extra bars.jpg
Posted By: 4mopower

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/06/16 03:07 PM

I have new Alston pedals and steering column w/mw quick release for sale.
Pm me

Sorry sgcuda i ment to add a quote from a previous post by you about eliminating stock column.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/26/16 12:12 AM

If anyone saw my other posts, you know that there was a lot of concern about my main hoop. This is the second design, and I'm sure everyone will agree, a lot more in line with acceptable design parameters.

Attached picture New hoop.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 10/03/16 01:32 AM

FINALLY!!! Making some progress. This is a lot of work. Of all of the operations, making the bends is the easiest part. Getting dimensions right is intense. Truthfully, I settled on the roll cage. I could probably build it 10 times over, and each time get a little closer to what I really visioned. Fitting the tubing properly has been time consuming, but worth it for the end results. Still a long way to go, but I'm happy with this weekends work. I really need to get a better camera phone!

Attached picture roll cage 1.jpg
Attached picture roll cage 2.jpg
Attached picture roll cage 3.jpg
Attached picture roll cage 4.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 10/03/16 06:36 AM

thumbs
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 10/17/16 12:56 AM

Haven't made too much progress. Cut the firewall out last weekend after the storm. Only had Sunday afternoon this week. Bent and notched rear rails. Tried the tubing notcher I got from Quicktree. What a nice piece of equipment that is. Makes this job so much easier.

Attached picture rear rails.jpg
Attached picture tube notch.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 10/24/16 12:37 AM

Made some progress this weekend. Got the rear bars tacked in place, cut, bent and tacked the snout tubes in place. Lots of number crunching on the front bars. Trying to allow for proper strut location going by numbers from Strange, and desired wheel tracking width. Haven't purchased the struts yet. Also have to allow for mounting tabs for the engine plate at the same time. I think I got them in pretty close.

Attached picture snout bars side view.jpg
Attached picture snout bars front view.jpg
Attached picture rear rails.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 10/29/16 01:44 AM

That is damn sexy there Kenny G............... boogie
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 10/30/16 03:45 AM

Saturday afternoon after raking up 15 bags of leaves.

Attached picture motor plate.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 10/31/16 12:00 AM

Got the body back off. Lot more work with the cage in it. Got it at ride height. 5" in front. 7" at rear.



Attached picture cage height.jpg
Attached picture frame set.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/01/16 12:47 PM

My new Quicktime scattershield will not clear my custom flywheel and Ram clutch setup. Only fits with 130t flywheel and 10.5 plate. My modified flywheel has too high a deck and brings the clutch counterweight arms in contact with the shield, even after 1/2" spacing. Looking for someone that wants to swap for their Lakewood shield. Doesn't have to be new, but not as old or beat up as me.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/07/16 02:09 AM

Trying to pic up speed before it becomes too cold to work on her.

Attached picture fc cage 1.jpg
Attached picture fc cage 2.jpg
Attached picture fc cage 3.jpg
Attached picture fc cage 4.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/21/16 02:35 AM

Well, I didn't care for that hoop, and by the responses, I'm guessing neither did anybody else. Added main hoop diagonals, a lower cross brace between the diagonals, and a longer hoop mounted more forward than the last one.

Attached picture cage 3.jpg
Attached picture cage 4.jpg
Attached picture cage 2.jpg
Attached picture cage 1.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/21/16 03:30 AM

Looks great but now it's too heavy w/all of those extra bars.........lol
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/21/16 04:17 AM

It's ok. All of the added weight is close to the rear axle.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/21/16 04:40 AM

TRUE..........
Posted By: ProSport

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/21/16 05:07 AM

Looks like you've made good progress! up
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/26/16 09:24 PM

Thanksgiving and part of Saturday progress. Taking a break. Have to go look at a computer.

Attached picture fc cage 5.jpg
Attached picture fc cage 6.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/26/16 09:30 PM

Nice................ beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/27/16 01:05 AM

Starting to look pretty good, if I do say so, myself.

Attached picture fc cage 7.jpg
Attached picture fc cage 8.jpg
Attached picture fc cage 9.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/27/16 11:43 PM

OK. Out of gas. This is where I landed after this weekend. Now, to get some Argon, and get some sleep.

Attached picture fc cage A.jpg
Attached picture fc cage B.jpg
Attached picture fc cage C.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/28/16 01:20 AM

You've come a LONG way rookie.............. biggrin
Posted By: Monte_Smith

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/28/16 01:43 AM

Looks good.........Me personally I would have run the lower bar all the way across hoop instead of between kickers. And the reason is, because I "think" to be legal with a FC cage, your lower supports must attach to main rail or a floor bar. As constructed you really don't have a spot for lower supports.

And to be clear, by "supports" I am referring to the two bars directly behind driver. Pretty sure they have to extend from top of main hoop to floor. Not sure what you have will pass
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/28/16 01:54 AM

Monte: The lower cross bar and angled supports are copied directly out of the SFI book (pg.13 25.4B manual). The only difference is that they have 2 lower uprights from the lower crossbar to the rear frame crossmember, but that is for a four link setup. My ladder bar crossmember is way too far forward for that. That is why I added 2 more diagonals going inboard, to support the funny car hoop. Also, I have an additional upper crossmember in the hoop. That was mostly by mistake, working off of how the bar gets put in when just building an 8 point roll bar. Decided to leave it for extra strength.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/28/16 02:07 AM

First, I guess I need to find out who makes the final call, SFI or NHRA. Then, maybe I can send them some pics and get some feedback. Thanks for the heads up, Monte. It will be a lot easier to make modifcations now then after car is done and painted.
Posted By: Monte_Smith

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/28/16 02:11 AM

They don't care that it is a ladder bar car or a 4 link car. That was my point, the two lower supports must tie in at the bottom........yours don't.

If your lower bar was all the way across, your two lower FC supports could land on bar from main hoop to rail and one on the rail
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 11/28/16 02:18 AM

I get it. It's a pretty straight shot from the fc hoop to the ladder bar x member. I could come straight down from the bottom turn with a straight leg, and tie it into a rear driveshaft hoop.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/04/16 01:52 AM

For anyone that is interested, I finished installing LED lighting in my garage. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! Borrowed a camera from work. Here's some better pics of my project so far.

Attached picture full chassis 1.JPG
Attached picture full chassis 2.JPG
Attached picture full chassis 3.JPG
Attached picture full chassis 4.JPG
Posted By: Quicktree

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/04/16 12:52 PM

I think the reason you had trouble with the funny car cage is your cross bar on the main hoop is about 6" give or take a few to high. that's why you had to add all the extra bars. make sure your helmet wont go between the bars on the drivers right side, the distance between the bars looks large on the pics.
Posted By: racerx

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/04/16 01:11 PM

It does look bright which lights did you get?
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/04/16 04:59 PM

Quicktree: My helmet won't fit between any two bars. The lower bar on the inside of the funny car cage is close to elbow level, too low to get the helmet through unless my head pops off my shoulders first. I need to get a shot with the seat installed and someone sitting in it with the helmet on.
Racerx: I went from 2 bulb 48" fluorescent to UT workshop LED lights from Lowes. $49 each. Used four of them in a 22 x 25 shop. Instant on when the light switch is hit. I have a center outlet where the electric door opener is mounted. Might put a fifth light there to kill any other shadows while welding. There is a pull string on the light to turn them on and off, which will be needed for the center outlet, which is always live.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/04/16 10:44 PM

My daughter stopped by. Since she is only an inch or 2 shorter than me, I bolted the seat in and threw her in the car. I sat in it afterwards, needs to be tilted back a little bit more for me. I felt I was too upright. But now, you can see body, helmet relationships to cage.

Attached picture driver 4.JPG
Attached picture driver 3.JPG
Attached picture driver 2.JPG
Attached picture driver 1.JPG
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/05/16 03:58 PM

You sure won't have to worry about me jumping in it and making a pass when you aren't looking!
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/05/16 05:36 PM

Lookin more and more like a racecar...........good work.......... thumbs
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/06/16 03:40 AM

Originally Posted By an8sec70cuda
You sure won't have to worry about me jumping in it and making a pass when you aren't looking!


Yeah, well, to be completely honest, I did make one major mistake. I made a point of having the frame rail bottom edge 1/2" higher than the bottom edge of the rocker sill. I did that to drop the body as low as possible. I failed to consider the 3" frame rail height, which in turn, lowered the driver height. If I had to do it again, I would use 1 5/8" round stock and mount it 1/2" lower than the rocker sill, to have as much driver height as possible.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/31/16 11:49 PM

Not too much progress lately. Took the engine and rear axle out of the chassis. Rotated it around and completed all welds. Might now ne up to Jerry Bickel standards, but I can honestly say that every weld is solid and a full 360 degrees. I have been able to fully flip the chassis by hand, by myself, so I am real curious as far as how much this bad boy is going to weigh when complete. The chassis is only missing maybe 6 bars, not including gussets, brackets, tabs and so on.
I have been working on this project now for 13 months and although not complete, I feel I have made decent progress. There are some stick shift races and nostalgia pro stock races coming up in May that I would really like to participate in. Hopefully I will make it.
Taking a break for the rest of the year. Happy New Year to everybody here at Moparts!
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/23/17 01:35 AM

Made some more progress today. Almost done. Then on to just spending money on parts.

Attached picture chassis 1.jpg
Attached picture chassis 2.jpg
Attached picture chassis 3.jpg
Attached picture chassis 4.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/23/17 02:32 AM

Bad azz Kenny................
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/20/17 12:15 AM

Didn't get as much done as I wanted, but made some progress. Made a new shifter bracket that locates the shifter 3" rearward and cut some new rods for it.

Attached picture Trans Bracket and Linkage.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/20/17 12:16 AM

Also made some new tunnel ram linkage.

Attached picture Tunnel Ram Linkage 2.jpg
Attached picture Tunnel Ram Linkage 1.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/20/17 12:21 AM

Engine sat pretty low in frame, so I raised it up 2" to get the oil pan inside of the frame rails. Now I can fabricate a belly pan under the engine instead of a diaper. Camshaft centerline will be approximately 21" off the ground. Highest point of body will be about 50" at rear of roof.

Attached picture Engine Trans Raised.jpg
Attached picture From Drivers Seat 1.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/17/17 11:35 PM

Christmas in March

Attached picture Crank trigger.jpg
Attached picture New axles.jpg
Attached picture Rear brakes.jpg
Attached picture Strange strut.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/17/17 11:48 PM

Look at you go homey.............. laugh2 boogie
Posted By: FastmOp

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/18/17 12:09 AM

Keep up the good work
Posted By: killermopar

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/18/17 12:16 AM

I'm coming to your house for Christmas. Awesome.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/19/17 11:37 PM

New axles fit like a glove. Needless to say, the brake kit needed some mods. Rotor hat holes had to be opened up for the 5/8" drive studs. Slight misalignment on the caliper brackets to the axle flange studs. Opened up those holes slightly, too. Of course, I had no idea where I put the nuts for the flange T bolts, so another trip to Lowes.
Front strut fits pretty nice. Steering rack isn't going to be a problem. I thought I might have to notch the frame rails for the right angles, but everything is lining up great. If everything goes right, this should work with zero bump steer.

Attached picture Rear brakes installed.jpg
Attached picture front strut mock up.jpg
Attached picture steering rack in place.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/20/17 06:14 PM

You've come a long way grASShopper...............looking good...... beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/16/17 02:42 AM

Well, it's a little less than a year and a half since I started this project. Finally, it's on the ground, although, only on three tires. Can't find another strut, so next week, I'm just going to order a new set. Made one mistake, but was easy to correct. Somehow my right front wheel center was 1 1/2" back, which means since all of my suspension mounting points were based off of the wheel center, all of my tabs were off. Wasn't a major deal. Will have it all straightened out by the time the new struts show up. Tomorrow, I will try to fit the body back on to get a full picture. Steering column coming from Jegs next week. Once the struts are in place, I'll make a rack mount and install the column.

Attached picture chassis & suspension.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/16/17 04:48 PM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
Well, it's a little less than a year and a half since I started this project. Finally, it's on the ground, although, only on three tires. Can't find another strut, so next week, I'm just going to order a new set. Made one mistake, but was easy to correct. Somehow my right front wheel center was 1 1/2" back, which means since all of my suspension mounting points were based off of the wheel center, all of my tabs were off. Wasn't a major deal. Will have it all straightened out by the time the new struts show up. Tomorrow, I will try to fit the body back on to get a full picture. Steering column coming from Jegs next week. Once the struts are in place, I'll make a rack mount and install the column.


Keeps gettin closer and lookin more and more like a race car.......... beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/16/17 09:18 PM

Body is on, for now. Cage actually fit inside. Imagine that? Sneezing all morning. Showered up and going to Easter dinner. Happy Easter to everyone.

Attached picture rolling chassis 1.jpg
Attached picture rolling chassis 2.jpg
Attached picture rolling chassis 3.jpg
Attached picture rolling chassis 4.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/16/17 09:20 PM

More pics

Attached picture rolling chassis 5.jpg
Attached picture rolling chassis 6.jpg
Attached picture rolling chassis 7.jpg
Attached picture rolling chassis 8.jpg
Posted By: killermopar

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/16/17 10:59 PM

That look great and is a major milestone. Stuff like that just makes you work harder. Congratulations!!!
Posted By: D-50

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/17/17 12:34 AM

Good job...... Can't wait to here what it runs.
Posted By: MadMopars

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/17/17 04:39 AM

It's looking really good. Nice pic up




Attached picture rolling_chassis_8.jpg
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/17/17 02:31 PM

Looks nice Kenny!
Posted By: dvw

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/17/17 06:04 PM

This is a hell of a lot of work. Good progress, keep it up.
Doug
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/18/17 12:49 AM

Thanks, guys. I don't think she will be ready by May for the Nostalgia Pro Stock races, but I sure am going to try to make some runs by summer.
Posted By: racerhog

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/18/17 05:15 AM

Looks like it's at a point to load it up and take it down and have the inspector look it over... smile smile
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/18/17 05:27 AM

Originally Posted By racerhog
Looks like it's at a point to load it up and take it down and have the inspector look it over... smile smile


Almost. Have to add the passenger X brace and a couple of small supports up front. Steering column should be here this week. New front struts just ordered tonight. Hopefully it will be a full roller within 2-3 weeks.
Posted By: racerhog

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/18/17 05:31 AM

Awesome Job So Far... Keep on Chipping at it.. smile
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/10/17 03:17 AM

Looks like Christmas is coming to my house very soon. penguin

Attached picture presents.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/13/17 02:33 AM

Well, I picked up a new Comp Engineering motor plate to stiffen the snout bars, got a MSD 7AL-2, ordered a fiberglass nose mounting kit, steering rack mounts, and door hinge kit through Chassis Engineering. After 3 weeks, finally got my new front strut kit from Strange. Still waiting on my backordered steering column kit from Jegs. But best of all, my Indy block showed up today!

Attached picture Indy Block front.jpg
Attached picture Indy Block top.jpg
Posted By: fullmetaljacket

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/13/17 02:49 AM

Nice Alloy.

Keep it up.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/13/17 04:26 AM

Can't leave well enuff alone..............you're HOOKED........... boogie
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/15/17 10:41 PM

Nice! How big is the new bullet gonna be?
Why the 7al2? The 7al3 has so many more features.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/15/17 11:34 PM

Originally Posted By an8sec70cuda
Nice! How big is the new bullet gonna be?
Why the 7al2? The 7al3 has so many more features.


Block is already 4.560. RBRE will check for sleeve replacement. I know 1, maybe 2 sleeves are damaged. If all need replacement, I will resleeve it at 4.500. I have a set of Manley rods with .990" small end and 2.100" big end. I'm going to offset grind my Eagle crank as much as possible from 4.15 to hopefully 4.40. So the engine will end up anywhere from 560 to 575 cubes. I got the 7AL-2 on the cheap in real nice condition. I only need a launch limiter and high end limiter, so I don't need a lot of features anyway.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/29/17 01:59 AM

Today has been an historic day! I finally got the car down on all four tires after almost a year and a half. Made my own coil spring compressor for the struts. Before the day was done, I even got the Indy block in place with the trans bolted in.

Attached picture Strut spring compressed.jpg
Attached picture Struts installed.jpg
Attached picture Car on all fours.jpg
Attached picture Indy block in bay.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/29/17 02:01 AM

If anyone needs to borrow the spring compressor, just pm me. It will compress 7" springs for Strange struts.

Attached picture Spring Compressor.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/29/17 02:03 AM

Gettin after it again.............good deal and will be blasting down the street before you know it........... beer
Posted By: ProSport

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/29/17 04:51 AM

up up
Posted By: 590 Challenger

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/29/17 02:14 PM

I was just checking out your very cool build, very nice
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/19/17 02:20 AM

Steering column located, minor tweaks to come. Pinto rack very close to Milodon pump (some things never change). Will rotate for more clearance. Made up some C/M tie rod sleeves instead of the threaded tubing I was using. Added side bars from dash bar to frame rails, and support bars to snout tubes. A cross bar will be added over the bellhousing. Not using a mid plate, but will use existing bolt flanges in the housing for 2 side mounts and a top mount. The top mount will be through bolted opposite the side mounts. This will allow bellhousing removal for clutch replacement without disturbing the engine, and also engine removal without moving the trans and housing. The three bolt mount should be sufficient as a frame stiffener.

Attached picture Motor plate New.jpg
Attached picture Bell Suuport L.jpg
Attached picture Bell Support R.jpg
Attached picture Motor Supports.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/19/17 06:42 AM

Coming along great man just more $$$ and time.......... beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/26/17 01:16 AM

Support bars installed from dash bar to frame rails, using as rear block mounts also. Relocated upper strut mounts. Got drivers door quick release hinges installed. Will finish passenger door hinges next week. Slid nose and hood on. Wiped most of the dust off. First time car has been assembled in a year and a half.

Attached picture body on.jpg
Posted By: Dave Hall

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/26/17 02:59 AM

up
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 07/03/17 03:33 AM

All door hinges done. Retainers added so doors can't come off when closed, but lift off after opening. Hung nose at proper stance until I finish adding the removable front end support rods. Will also be adding Dzus fasteners at the back of fenders. Threw tunnel ram on top of block and cut out hood opening for carbs. Man, I really need a phone with a better camera.

Attached picture body 1.jpg
Attached picture body 2.jpg
Attached picture body 3.jpg
Attached picture body 5.jpg
Posted By: racerx

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 07/03/17 04:21 AM

Its coming along nicely up
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 07/03/17 04:45 AM

Thanks.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 07/03/17 06:28 AM

You make it look easy............ beer thumbs
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 07/31/17 12:12 AM

Started to tackle what I feel is the biggest challenge. How to mount the fiberglass nose for quick release. Bolting it down to the original frame was easy. But to mount a free hanging glass nose onto a tube chassis seemed to me to be a stretch of the imagination. I bought a Chassis Engineering kit and just stared at it for a while like a deer in the headlights. I started by making sure that after the doors were mounted in alignment, I mounted the back of the nose aligned to the doors, or at least temporarily. I welded the slide tabs to the frame rails and inserted the lower cross tube. I ran a temporary support across the top of the nose to hold it up, fabricated some metal tabs/outriggers from where the fenders bolt to the lower valance and welded them to extending tubes from the cross tube, finally welding them together. Came out very solid. Next week, I will add all of the upper fender supports, and have to remember to order some Dzus kits from Summit.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/10/17 12:33 PM

Picked up a new engine run up stand from Summit. This is a real nice piece, but the packaging was completely destroyed, restapled, taped over, another layer of cardboard, more staples and tape. Luckily everything was in the box without damage. Also purchased their gauge kit. I used my old radiator. Planning on having engine mounted up this weekend. Maybe getting the engine running will help me get remotivated to finish the Cuda.
* I promise to get a new phone with a better camera very soon *

Attached picture Engine Run Stand.jpg
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/10/17 05:41 PM

Very nice, but I'm surprised you bought one instead of building one yourself. Me and dad built one in an afternoon out of scrap metal, works great, and well worth it when it comes to finding issues before the motor goes into the car.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/10/17 11:20 PM

I like your style.......... beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/11/17 02:14 AM

Originally Posted By an8sec70cuda
Very nice, but I'm surprised you bought one instead of building one yourself. Me and dad built one in an afternoon out of scrap metal, works great, and well worth it when it comes to finding issues before the motor goes into the car.


Chip, with my amount of free time being at an absolute low, I have to make the best out of what I got. I haven't even had time in the last month and a half to do much more than sweep out the garage. Trying to impress the top brass has become a very taxing situation for me, and I'm not even sure if everything is going to work out in my favor yet.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/12/17 11:37 PM

Added gauges. Found my old switch panel. Figured I'd put it to good use. There is only one hole on the stock panel. This will give me a few more options.

Attached picture run up stand with gauges.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/13/17 01:08 AM

Lookin good mate.............. biggrin beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/05/17 12:36 AM

Got pushrods and rockers installed. Thanks to fast68plymouth, I was able to determine the correct pushrod lengths I need. Just need a set of intakes at 9.900" long to finish the valvetrain.

Attached picture rockers installed.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/09/17 03:47 PM

Well, not firing the motor this weekend. As I'm pulling the crank around and setting valve lash, up pops a squirrel nest through the cam. Start digging it out, and somehow it is in the underside of #4 piston. Got the majority of it out. Came in the house. Told my wife about it and said I am going to try to fire it up Saturday afternoon. She says "are you nuts? You have too much money in that to take that kind of chance." This coming from someone who doesn't even know where to put the washer fluid. So, today, off comes the pan and scraper to see what else is left inside.
Posted By: tboomer

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/09/17 04:45 PM

Ken....You know theres a joke to be had here... whistling Good luck!
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/10/17 12:51 AM

Well, it didn't start out in the piston. Must have been sitting on the crank scarper and windage tray areas. Got pulled up through the cam area when I pulled the crank around. Not sure if I want to reuse the oil pan. Rust from chipmunk urine, I guess. Internals look good so far.

2 squirrels climb into a wedge block for a beer...

Attached picture rodents 1.jpg
Attached picture rodent 2.jpg
Attached picture rodents 3.jpg
Attached picture rodents 4.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/10/17 01:34 AM

Sorry to see this and know you were getting excited about the first fire up so now what can you just clean it up or is it tear down time............ down
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/10/17 04:23 AM

Looks like everything was in the pan, and when I pulled the crank around, the counterweights dragged up the nest. The only thing I noticed inside of the engine itself was some minor surface rust on the side of one of the rods near the big end. Easy clean up with some scotchbrite or steel wool. Going to attempt to clean up the pan for now. Just out of disgust, I'd probably like to replace it, but Milodon doesn't make the full length pans anymore, just the ones with the front notch. Mine was modified like that back in '89 for the pinto rack. I'd really like one of the old 10 qt. full length pans, if anyone has one they want to part with.
Posted By: racerhog

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/10/17 05:45 AM

Man... The Wife hit that one out of the ball park.... What a keeper !!!!!
Maybe have that one blasted and re-zink it... Just food for thought.
Posted By: MadMopars

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/10/17 05:47 AM

What a bummer. I'm sure your itching to fire it up but I have to believe it's worth doing a quick tear down to make sure you got everything out. I'd hate to see you fire it and hurt something because of some crap that was still floating around in there. It'd also give you a chance to lube everything up again which probably wouldn't hurt either. Best of luck either way.
up -Trent
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/10/17 07:07 AM

There was a small little bump and weird click when I was pulling it around. Everything turns and sounds fine now. I will be getting under and into the block with some light on Sunday for better inspection. Since there were never any rockers on the motor and the ports were all taped up, I don't see any reason to pull the heads at this point. But I will be putting my boroscope down the spark plug holes to check, just the same. Going to scrub clean the block walls and oil everything up before final assembly.
Posted By: racerhog

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/10/17 05:35 PM

See what happens when you let stuff sit !!!!! Get your heals to pumping Son !!!!
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/11/17 01:05 AM

Got the pan and scraper cleaned up and reinstalled. Intake base is on. Valve cover hardware cut and installed. Starter installed. All that's left is to install plugs, cut my wires, still waiting on my oil filter adapter. Should be firing her up during the week. boogie
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/11/17 03:23 AM

Cool, gettin closer man........... beer
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/11/17 02:12 PM

LOL, too funny. You need some rat traps.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/14/17 02:50 AM

Got the motor back together. Must have pulled it around at leat a dozen times already. Finished up the oiling system. Got my D'Rale killer oil filter housing mounted up. Tightened all of the fittings. Finished socking down the oil pan and intake manifold after letting the silicone set up. Powered up the gauges and hit the priming rod with the drill. I can here the spray bars bleeding out. I don't know how much pressure it made because the gauge stops at 99 psi. I can feel the drill load big time. Stuffed some carb fuel inlet washers under the regulator spring cap. Spun it around again. Maxing at 96 psi, less load on drill. Going in good direction. Decided to pull the engine around in 90 degree intervals to check for lifter bleed off. Engine stops solid at first 90 degrees. Loosened intake bolts up, since I remember on a SBC putting too long an intake bolt in and locking up the pushrods. No difference. Valve covers come off tomorrow night. Here we go again. Stupid squirrels......
Oh, and the rear main seal leaks. Boy am I surprised.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/14/17 04:19 AM

Just some pics with a better camera. Taken just in case the storm was as bad as it was supposed to be.

Attached picture 01ff6b56a582e1f3c35c55b3d905629db270fe3154.jpg
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Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/14/17 06:46 AM

That looks bad azz Kenny and that stance is sexy as hell........... beer
Posted By: FastmOp

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/14/17 08:54 AM

I have used the same french fry on 3 mice this week. They are looking for a place to stay warm lol

The car is turning out great. It's worth the struggle.
Posted By: MR_P_BODY

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/14/17 03:21 PM

Car is looking good.. hope you get the engine
figured out.. good luck
wave
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/16/17 04:33 AM

Found the problem. Nest must have warped the scraper. Scraper is now hitting against rods. Easy fix.
I wonder if this guy lives in my neighborhood.
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100011403019751
Posted By: Dave Hall

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/16/17 05:09 AM

Damn! Glad it's an easy fix!
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/18/17 03:17 AM

SHE RUNS!!! boogie

It was a battle, but I won. Let's see. Where to start. The motor stopped turning because I put the crank scraper in upside down after cleaning out the squirrel nest. My Mallory coil deep fried. I wired the relay for the starter wrong and smoked some wires. And I put the plug wires on clockwise. What you really have to appreciate is that I had the MP book out looking up ignition and read counter clockwise. I marked the cap with a clockwise arrow anyway. Can't get the idle under 1,900. Sounds like a really massive vacuum leak up on top of the tunnel ram. Maybe the Procomp adapters not sealing properly. Will check during the week. Hopefully, I'll have a video of the engine running next weekend.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/18/17 03:26 AM

If we don't do stupid chit, we are not trying hard enuff or never lay our hands on these car things.........My mistake list is a long one but the lessons are priceless..........she's gonna fly................... drive boogie beer penguin
Posted By: MadMopars

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/19/17 07:01 AM

Glad you got to fire the motor finally. So what's the plan? You going to paint the car before you put the motor in, get it running and then paint it later, or? work
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/19/17 12:40 PM

Originally Posted By MadMopars
Glad you got to fire the motor finally. So what's the plan? You going to paint the car before you put the motor in, get it running and then paint it later, or? work


Yes. Right now, I still have to finish the X bar on the passenger side, steering column mounting, mid plate tabs, battery tray and fuel tab brackets Then I am going to paint the frame with Rustoleum. My plan is to paint it before racing, but I don't know if I want to wait that long. Might just spray bomb some primer on it.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/22/17 08:51 PM

Got the old girl running!. Water leaks, oil leaks. Normal crap. But sounds strong.

https://www.facebook.com/100011403019751/videos/599807587076003/
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 10/05/17 12:34 PM

Engine is done for this year. Found my puffing issue when I had the heads off checking for water sealing issues. Flycuts for the piston reliefs were cut too deep. Found a hole in #8 piston. I can only assume the rest of the pistons are ready to pop in the same spots. New pistons are not in the budget at this time so the engine will go back under wraps. Plenty of work left to do on the car itself, with plenty of parts floating around.
Posted By: an8sec70cuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 10/05/17 02:12 PM

Did you have them flycut yourself?
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 10/05/17 09:33 PM

I had them done with the rest of the engine work. All of the engine work was done at the same time. Check heads, block work up, clearance for stroker, replace cam bearings, line hone for new caps, clearance for valves, balance bottom end. They had all engine parts for mock up.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/24/17 05:31 PM

OK. So this year. I got the 500 fired up, after many setbacks. Found some issues, but got tired of it. After brainstorming with a close friend, it was decided that as long as I own this motor, it would be possessed by the spirit of Chuckie. So, I sold the motor, and am now embarking on bigger and better. Looking at what kind of B1 heads to buy. Really have my eyes on a set of B1MC's. but still checking to see if they are really MC's. Also have a set of PSO's in sight, but have a lot of port and epoxy work, which has never really thrilled me as far as long term use. Aiming at putting together a 572, maybe bigger, not sure yet. Taking a break, cleaning up the garage, enjoying the holidays. Will start fresh with the New Year and maybe get this old girl to the track. Long overdue.

Merry Christmas everyone. Santa3
Posted By: Jeremiah

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/25/17 12:25 AM

Kenny that is a bad deal on the pistons. I'm glad you are moving on to bigger and more bada$$ pastures.

On the pistons being fly-cut - Was this to solve a PtV clearance issue? If so, can we re-hash what the rod/stroke combo was along with the cam specs? I'm getting into a similar scenario and was wondering if losing some quench/squishy was beneficial in lieu of cutting on the pistons (or changing to a dished piston).

My 511 low deck was really close on the PtV (.080 Ex, .100 In) and luckily only .020 had to be removed from the valve face. That was with a cam that checks out at less than .750 at the spring retainer.

Merry CHristmas to you too buddy!
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/25/17 01:33 AM

Originally Posted By Jeremiah
Kenny that is a bad deal on the pistons. I'm glad you are moving on to bigger and more bada$$ pastures.

On the pistons being fly-cut - Was this to solve a PtV clearance issue? If so, can we re-hash what the rod/stroke combo was along with the cam specs? I'm getting into a similar scenario and was wondering if losing some quench/squishy was beneficial in lieu of cutting on the pistons (or changing to a dished piston).

My 511 low deck was really close on the PtV (.080 Ex, .100 In) and luckily only .020 had to be removed from the valve face. That was with a cam that checks out at less than .750 at the spring retainer.

Merry CHristmas to you too buddy!


With the "QUALITY" work done to my engine, I'm thinking that nobody checked for sure and plunge cut the pistons, just to be on the safe side. When I saw pics of original pistons on 440source site, they took a ton of material out of the valve relief pockets on the intake side of my pistons. I'm sure they would have been safe with half the cut they took, that is, if they needed to be cut at all. .100" clearance on the intake is plenty safe IMO. My combo was a 4.15" crank, 6.76" rod, 4.380" flat top piston, -0.005" deck height. I was using -1 heads, heavy milled to 60cc chambers, .040" copper head gaskets. .765"/.714" cam lift with 1.7 rockers, 269/276 @ .050" duration.

And a Merry Christmas to you.
Posted By: Jeremiah

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/25/17 03:17 AM

What would you be good with for minimum PtV on a steel rod engine?
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/25/17 04:36 AM

I've heard .060" but I think I feel good with .080".
Posted By: Cab_Burge

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/25/17 05:11 AM

Solid roller cam with decent spring pressures, 250+ lbs. on the seat and 600 + Lbs. opened on a mild lobe, I shoot for .060 at the closest on the intakes and .080 on the exhaust up
I've ran them with more than that clearances with no visible closeness on the piston top carbon at or under 7500 RPM, less than .050 I see near witness marks on the carbon work
This is on a automatic car, not a stick shift motor work whistling
Posted By: 590 Challenger

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 12/26/17 03:18 AM

Somebody Needs a 588!!!
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/07/18 12:31 AM

Ok. New build time. Intake on its way. Crank and rods in the works. Heads going for inspection and touch up. Engine block is hurt. Will be looking for ideas on repairs in the near future.




Attached picture Indy Block front.jpg
Attached picture B1 cam.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/07/18 04:01 AM

Cool, maybe this time around you will get a good motor built and meet some goals.............. beer thumbs
Posted By: SCATPACK 1

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/07/18 06:28 PM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
Well, it didn't start out in the piston. Must have been sitting on the crank scarper and windage tray areas. Got pulled up through the cam area when I pulled the crank around. Not sure if I want to reuse the oil pan. Rust from chipmunk urine, I guess. Internals look good so far.

2 squirrels climb into a wedge block for a beer...



Just read your post and hate to see this set back. (Should put a squirrel powered decal on scoop). But how did the squirrel get in the oil pan? Was the timing cover off or something else left off for a while? That looks like it has been there for a while with the rust on the pan.
Hope you get it going soon.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/07/18 10:02 PM

Originally Posted By SCATPACK 1

2 squirrels climb into a wedge block for a beer...


Just read your post and hate to see this set back. (Should put a squirrel powered decal on scoop). But how did the squirrel get in the oil pan? Was the timing cover off or something else left off for a while? That looks like it has been there for a while with the rust on the pan.
Hope you get it going soon. [/quote]

I had the intake off, and 2 cloth type fender covers over the valley. They ate through them and used the material for a nest. Since there weren't any lifters in it yet, I guess they did their thing and shimmied down around the camshaft and into the bottom end. My Milodon pan has a solid windage tray on it which became their bedroom floor. I pulled enough stuffing out to fill a bed pillow. A lot was behind #4 piston, rest in the pan.

The first one chugs a beer and says....
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/12/18 03:40 AM

More toys!

Attached picture B1 Intake 1.jpg
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Attached picture B1 Intake 3.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 01/12/18 03:57 AM

Damn nice Kenny and someones fixin to haul azz here soon.......... beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/15/18 04:05 AM

Thumper starting on assembling parts for the new carbs.





Attached picture New Carbs 1.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/15/18 06:58 PM

She's gonna FLY................... boogie drive penguin
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/25/18 11:58 PM

While Dominic is assembling my new fuel atomization units, I'm making a little progress. I got Jeff's bumper brackets aligned real nice on the rear. I found a scrap late model Charger air dam that I thought would work out on the front. What do you guys think? I am still thinking on just using a pair of AAR chin spoilers, but I need something to give me a little down force on the top end.

Attached picture 1250 Dommy.jpg
Attached picture bumper 5.jpg
Attached picture bumper 8.jpg
Attached picture airdam 5.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 02/26/18 08:28 AM

I like that spoiler a lot............
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/05/18 03:07 AM

Carbs are done. Waiting on Dom's final approval.

Attached picture New Dominators.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/05/18 07:56 AM

I approve............... biggrin
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/17/18 02:06 AM

Got me some new bling today. Bigger is better. Right? Hopefully, I'll hear something soon about my heads and my crankshaft.

Attached picture Tunnel Ram 2.jpg
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Posted By: ozymaxwedge

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/17/18 02:49 AM

VERY NICE !!! Would love to try them out.
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 03/17/18 07:09 PM

MAN, Those are some SEXXXXYYYY units up top on that T-Ram and w/all of the chassis/lightning mods, someone's gonna FFFFLLLLYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY............... beer boogie penguin
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/01/18 07:39 PM

More new parts! Header flanges from 408strokerdart are awesome! Finally got a great set of crank and rods from 590challenger. It's always a pleasure to deal with people from the Moparts family.

Attached picture Smith Flanges.jpg
Attached picture Callies Stroker Crank.jpg
Attached picture Oliver Rods.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/01/18 07:55 PM

Lookin good and one step closer.......... thumbs
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/03/18 02:45 AM

Last part of the suspension! At least one system is now complete.

Attached picture Strange DA shocks.jpg
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/08/18 11:09 PM

My newest friend, who happens to have a KB hemi powered Cuda with a Lenco, was at the local car show this weekend and picked up some stainless tubing for me to make up my headers. Top and bottom rows are 2 1/4", middle row is 2 3/8". All stainless 20ga. from Pro Fab. Each row was boxed up and priced at $40/box. Should be a real good start to the new headers.

Attached picture header tubes.jpg
Posted By: rowin4

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/09/18 03:37 AM

$40. a box??????? I would say you stole them or the new found friend did. Price for 1 is way more than $40. bucks. I guess I just have to ask, anymore of the same size available ?
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 04/09/18 12:49 PM

Originally Posted By rowin4
$40. a box??????? I would say you stole them or the new found friend did. Price for 1 is way more than $40. bucks. I guess I just have to ask, anymore of the same size available ?


That was all that was there. But if there is any left when I get done, I'll let you know.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 05/21/18 01:50 AM

The first set of rear bumper brackets were close, but so-so. Jeff Lingenfelter just sent me an updated set that are dead on. If you guys need some light weight aluminum bumper brackets for E bodies, Jeff has them ready for shipment.

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Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/30/18 09:54 PM

Getting some Botox injections for my rear end. Going lean and mean. Die Hard Mopar fans, look away.

Attached picture Strange Center Section front.jpg
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Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/30/18 09:56 PM

And I got some other goodies from Dominic Thumper, today.

Attached picture RJS Belts.jpg
Attached picture Milodon Gear Drive.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 06/30/18 11:11 PM

Gettin close my man.............. beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/18/18 03:22 AM

Bought a new toy today at Harbor Freight. Open box special during their parking lot sale. Couldn't turn down the deal. Hope to start playing with it real soon.

Attached picture welder.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/18/18 04:15 PM

Curios to how well that puppy works........... boogie penguin
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/26/18 01:54 AM

2 1/2 years into this project. Finally accomplished something. Chassis is done. Now, to arrange to get it certified.

Attached picture chassis done 4.jpg
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Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 08/26/18 05:20 PM

Long road but getting closer my friend then the heart transplant will wake this beast up............ drive boogie penguin beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/04/18 01:20 AM

Trying to get back on track. Went to Harbor Freight and bought their adjustable welding table with a 25% Labor Day coupon. Getting tired of welding on the floor. Put the steering and suspension back in the car. Mocked up the wheelie bars. I got a Kirkie seat and cover, but it was a roundy round seat with real high side bolsters. Was able to cut them down and reweld the protective ridge bead back in place. Now I have my arms freed up for shifting. Made all the mounts for the seat. Actually feels pretty good. Wasn't sure if I was going to like it or not. Have always used the molded plastic seats.

Attached picture Wheelie bar mockup.jpg
Attached picture Kirkey Seat modified.jpg
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/04/18 06:34 PM

IF I had your skills, my junk would be caged............. work
Posted By: racerx

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/04/18 06:43 PM

Originally Posted By sgcuda
Bought a new toy today at Harbor Freight. Open box special during their parking lot sale. Couldn't turn down the deal. Hope to start playing with it real soon.




Did you weld up the seat with the Vulcan200 tig machine? I was in there yesterday looking at the machine not a bad peace.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/04/18 10:51 PM

Yes. It welded it no problem. And I'm still running it on 110 volts. At 110, has a max amperage of 120. Kirkie seats are pretty thick aluminum. Puddled real nicely. Now, I just have to learn how to weld like someone other than an 8 year old. LOL!
I'll get some close up pics of the welds and post them later on, but the machine works real nice.
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/05/18 12:50 AM

Here are some pics of the seat welds using my new Vulcan ProTig 200.

Attached picture seat left weld.jpg
Attached picture seat right weld.jpg
Posted By: racerx

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/05/18 02:39 AM

Looks like it got the job done weld
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/05/18 04:45 AM

Not pretty, but yes, they are fairly solid. Starting to get used to watching for the silvery puddle before adding filler rod.
Posted By: Quicktree

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/07/18 12:07 AM

nice, glad to see you still at it. come on and get done before I die of old age smile
Posted By: Thumperdart

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/07/18 12:09 AM

Originally Posted By Quicktree
nice, glad to see you still at it. come on and get done before I die of old age smile


They'll have to kill your grumpy ass...........JK..... beer
Posted By: sgcuda

Re: OK! No more BS. Time to start working. - 09/07/18 04:56 AM

Originally Posted By Quicktree
nice, glad to see you still at it. come on and get done before I die of old age smile


Thanks, Tony. Glad to see that you're still around and keeping an eye out. New plan is late Spring (I even got that OK's from the boss (wife)). hammer
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