I bought a set of the repop 15X7 road wheels a while back and on the box it said not to balance the wheels using the center hole. At the time that was the only way I thought wheels could be balanced. Then I found this video on You tube explaining the difference. Most tire shops have no idea what you are talking about when you tell then that the wheels need to be balanced off of the lug holes and not the center hole. This is true with most of the aftermarket aluminum wheels being sold. Like in the American Racing Torq Thrust wheels. Watch the video link below...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocWAZqNGhM4

The best way to balance the wheels on our old cars is to use the old spin on the car method with a Hunter machine, if you can find somebody that has one.

Nothing balances better than the big red hub cap.

Bag of lead shot in the tire. Done.

yea DONE and so will the inside of the tire.

Nah.. had bags in mine for 10 years.

I've done away with wheel weights and conventional balancing for about the last decade+ on my toys and daily drivers, from Goodyear Polyglass repro tires, to modern radials and 10 ply off road swampers


A little spendy, but they can be reused with each new tire/set don't confuse them with lead shot, BB's, plastic pellets,bags of sand, or other cheap substitutes...go to: www.innovativebalancing.com

I've never seen those before. Any cons to using them beside price?

I went and bought some of those beads and if I ever get my engine back I'm gonna give it a try. I have one of the Hunter spin on the car balancers, but if the beads work, then it would be much easer.

Only cons is extremely low profile tires don't seem to balance well, but for 80-90 % of the tires out there they'll work very effectively

That's what I was thinking too.

I'd think with the lower profile would need the "tire matching" technique and then ballanced.

What is the difference between EZ open bags and standard bags?

Around here 22's on stretched rubber bands use those stick on weights. When they hit potholes it's always good for a laugh.

I prefer the balancing by mounting to a lug adaptor on a spin balancer.

The key to balancing is to checking your work. After adding weights, dismount wheel from balance machine, remount and respin. A good balance job on a calibrated machine will read zero, zero.

I had the same problem after buying my road wheels. I am in a city of 100,000 with many tire shops. I contacted many of them, some knew what I meant but did not/could not do it. A few said the adapters were "too expensive" for the use they would get.

I ended up having them balanced using the center hole. They balanced up well on the machine and are fine on the car.

Maybe you will have the same luck.



FYI, from the Coker website;

"What is lug centric balancing & do you recommend it?

Lug centric balancing simply means the wheel is affixed to the balancer by an adapter that goes through lug holes, not through the center hole of the rim. Unlike aluminum wheels, which usually have a drilled and almost perfect center hole placement, steel wheel’s center holes are stamped. This frequently causes the center hole to actually be slightly off-center. If the center hole is used to mount steel wheels to the balancer, the balance will be inaccurate and the tire will not perform at its best. Your wheel and tire ride on the studs, so you want the assembly to be balanced as it rides on the car. Yes, we recommend lug centric balancing to obtain the most accurate balance & best ride for your vehicle."

I think the OP is saying he wants to have them balanced that way, but cannot find a shop that has the lug adapter to do it.

Can an adaptor be made by using the hub from a 5 x 114.3 car?

That Dyna Balls thing seems interesting ..
Have you balanced tested on machine after installing
them ?

Another popular post Jon !

Tires with balancing beads can not be checked for balance on a machine once the beads are put in.

Before retiring I worked at a multi line dealer,Porsche BMW Volvo and GM. We had the Hi zoot Hunter roadforce ballancer. You could ballance Hub centric or lug centric. Plus the road force option would let you position the heavy part of the tire to the lite part of the rim and visa versa. Euro owners were a PITA to satisfy but that machine would diag and print out the results and show if the tire or rim were out of spec. I used it for all my rigs including Some BFG 35s that are notorious for being hard to ballance, rode like a Caddy when done. Find a shop with one and someone who knows how to use it. Cant beat the old Hunter on car ballancer with a glass of water on the fender though. Man now I feel OLD.