|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: polyspheric]
#2048414
04/06/16 11:03 PM
04/06/16 11:03 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
|
I'm thinking the car is only gonna run about 12's
You don't need anything like that much work. That's why I recommended ladder bars and a MS back half. Sooner or later, 12's won't cut it. MS not enough weight increase to take away from the performance. Good enough to handle low 10's and go straight every run on a budget. Can certify for 8.50 class if built properly.
[image][/image]
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2048425
04/06/16 11:21 PM
04/06/16 11:21 PM
|
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,267
North, Alabama
D-50
pro stock
|
pro stock
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,267
North, Alabama
|
I run 6.20's in the 1/8 on M/T drag radials with stock leaf springs and home made Caltracs. Just put a cage in it and put Caltrac Bars on it.
1.33 60 ft,6.21 at 110.59 in the 1/8, pump gas small block,2950lbs,drag radials,mufflers and driven to track ...
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: D-50]
#2048427
04/06/16 11:28 PM
04/06/16 11:28 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
Put a 6 point in it and your good to 10.0... sounds like its gonna be awhile till your lower than that... myself I would make the it a 8 point out of moly and if later if you want to add on you can add on and still be lite 
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2087996
06/07/16 10:17 PM
06/07/16 10:17 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 363
San Diego
64dartsb
OP
enthusiast
|
OP
enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 363
San Diego
|
Hey guys, so I got he car at the shop. I'm looking into buying a ladder bar setup from Chris Alston chassis works I about the $1500 range.
Looks like the best way to go... I don't know to much about this stuff. I guess my question is
Is this a good route to go down?
Also not sure on what length bars to get? I want them to work right the first time I've seen some guys have to cut the floor out and stuff I hope I don't have to do that.
if your dreaming of your car then it's your dream car....
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2088005
06/07/16 10:26 PM
06/07/16 10:26 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 363
San Diego
64dartsb
OP
enthusiast
|
OP
enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 363
San Diego
|
This is what I'm looking at
I need to know about the spring rate too I don't really know which one to get
if your dreaming of your car then it's your dream car....
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2088009
06/07/16 10:31 PM
06/07/16 10:31 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
Buy mine... its all moly..roller or turn key.. ran 8.9s at 151 with a 405ci N/A
Last edited by MR_P_BODY; 06/07/16 10:38 PM.
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2088012
06/07/16 10:35 PM
06/07/16 10:35 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
|
Alston makes some nice stuff. Used them previously in my car. You will probably end up doing some minor floor cutting and rewelding, but not too much. I put a Morrison ladder bar setup with crossmember in a Foxbody. Welded the driveshaft loop to the floorpan hump, rolled the carpet back and put the rear seat back in. My newest setup is from Smith-Racecraft, but I don't think they sell their Ultimate Ladder Bar kit any more. $1,500 I'm guessing you are buying the whole subframe kit, bars, locator, coil overs. S&W Performance makes an assortment of direct fit frame rails for narrowing rear chassis.
32" is a good length to be at. I like ladder bars for ease of adjustment, and the car tends to launch straighter since the bars act as an antisway bar at the same time. Moderate hp cars that are pulling the left front wheel up tend to stay on the ground more with ladder bars.
[image][/image]
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2088491
06/08/16 06:19 PM
06/08/16 06:19 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 363
San Diego
64dartsb
OP
enthusiast
|
OP
enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 363
San Diego
|
Ok cool. I think I'm gonna buy the ladder bar kit posted above. Need to buy it today or tomorrow. I just don't know which spring rate to start out with. I know I might not get it right first try. But I have no idea where to start.
Also I'm doing a lot of figuring stuff out with the axle width and how the tires fit in the car. Always heard buy wheels and tires first cut rearend to fit.
Currently I have some center lines on the car. 10" wide. 6 in front 4 in back. But the tire is hitting the fender on the outside. I'm basically figuring narrow the rearend again 1" more and it should all fit.
Can I just take the rear to a shop and be like take 1" off of this and axles and keep rolling with my wheels and tires?
Basically the guy at the shop wants me to buy more aftermarket axles with a different bolt pattern and offset the wheel to make it all fit. So buy new wheels. I want to do the most cost effective way. So I guess the question is really. How much tire clearance do I need between the rear tire and the car. Is 1/2" good?
if your dreaming of your car then it's your dream car....
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2088546
06/08/16 07:39 PM
06/08/16 07:39 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
Ok cool. I think I'm gonna buy the ladder bar kit posted above. Need to buy it today or tomorrow. I just don't know which spring rate to start out with. I know I might not get it right first try. But I have no idea where to start.
Also I'm doing a lot of figuring stuff out with the axle width and how the tires fit in the car. Always heard buy wheels and tires first cut rearend to fit.
Currently I have some center lines on the car. 10" wide. 6 in front 4 in back. But the tire is hitting the fender on the outside. I'm basically figuring narrow the rearend again 1" more and it should all fit.
Can I just take the rear to a shop and be like take 1" off of this and axles and keep rolling with my wheels and tires?
Basically the guy at the shop wants me to buy more aftermarket axles with a different bolt pattern and offset the wheel to make it all fit. So buy new wheels. I want to do the most cost effective way. So I guess the question is really. How much tire clearance do I need between the rear tire and the car. Is 1/2" good? Depends where your talking.. on top at the fender I like to be able to slide my hand in it(so thats about 1").. on the front I like a bit more... if your talking the top the top of the tub.. you want at least 1 3/4"
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2088582
06/08/16 08:51 PM
06/08/16 08:51 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,551
Fulton County, PA
CMcAllister
Mr. Helpful
|
Mr. Helpful
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 11,551
Fulton County, PA
|
Yes, you get the wheel/tire combination, set it up under the car where it fits, take the wheel to wheel measurements and build the rear to the wheels. Pay attention to pinion offset. Use the deepest wheel offset you can. The rear will be narrower (lighter), axles shorter, and the wheel will come off and on easier.
Narrowing the rear usually involves new axles. Great time to upgrade housing ends, bearings, axle size, etc. to the good stuff.
Car should be weighed to get the right spring the first time, but 110-120 is probably what you will end up with.
If the results don't match the theory, change the theory.
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2088865
06/09/16 04:03 AM
06/09/16 04:03 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 363
San Diego
64dartsb
OP
enthusiast
|
OP
enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 363
San Diego
|
Ok about the clearance how about between the tire and the frame. I think I'm getting new tubs that go straight up but how close can I have the tire to the frame. 1 3/4"?
if your dreaming of your car then it's your dream car....
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2088866
06/09/16 04:07 AM
06/09/16 04:07 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 363
San Diego
64dartsb
OP
enthusiast
|
OP
enthusiast
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 363
San Diego
|
Thing is I've already narrowed the rear end and dos all this once already so I only need to take like an inch outta the rear end already have aftermarket axles. I think I'm gonna add a backbrace on the rear end too.
I guess 1 other question.
They offer a pan hard bar and a trac- locator
What should I do get both get one I have no idea
if your dreaming of your car then it's your dream car....
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2088880
06/09/16 08:52 AM
06/09/16 08:52 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
|
The tire can be 1" from the frame. I've run closer than that but wouldn't recommend it. I like the track locator bar between the ladder bars. A panhard bar would shift the rear end side to side throughout its range of motion. The track bar keeps the rear end square in the chassis. The panhard bar would also have to be readjusted whenever you change ride height to recenter the rear.
[image][/image]
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2088883
06/09/16 08:56 AM
06/09/16 08:56 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
sgcuda
master
|
master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,243
Charlotte, North Carolina
|
You can get a track bar that either has weld on tabs from lower tube to lower tube, or you can get kits that use the front and rear heim bolts for the mounting tabs. My old Alston bars had the weld on brackets. My new RaceCraft bars use the bolt on brackets. Matter of personal preference, but the bolt on brackets use a longer bar, which I like.
[image][/image]
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: 64dartsb]
#2088935
06/09/16 11:27 AM
06/09/16 11:27 AM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
You want 1 of 2 things... the track locator or the wishbone... I have both on different cars... the street rod I use the track locator (thats the rod that angles between the ladder) bars) and when you mount it use the lower rear hole on the diff and what ever hole you have the front bolt in is where you mount the front locator.. that way it pivots in the same arc as the ladder bars... a wish bone is more for the track.. I mount the single point on the diff and I use the fronts in same holes as the bars.. it has a sliding inner tube which you need to keep lubed so it slides.. another thing you might want later is a anti roll bar.. that depends on if things are flexing... a track locator is the easiest.... the angled bar is the locator EDIT It is HIGHLY advised to add the back brace if your using a 8 3/4 or a 9" Also.. get the double adjustable ladder bars.. makes life much easier
Last edited by MR_P_BODY; 06/09/16 11:48 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Chassis work prices
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#2088953
06/09/16 11:58 AM
06/09/16 11:58 AM
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
|
Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
|
I'll give you another piece of advice.. on the back brace.. once you figure out the length.. weld the brace all the way to the ends(right behind the bearing brackets).. put the bearing brackets on last... all the other stuff that goes on cut it around the back brace.. that way the axle tubes are way stronger..guys that stop at the springs(leaf springs) so they dont have to work around the bolts.. the ends(past the brace still bend)
|
|
|
|
|
