Lakewood bell housing install a body small block
#2080799
05/26/16 05:29 PM
05/26/16 05:29 PM
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,390
CA.
RAY1969CARS
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,390
CA.
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Hi guys I have a 69 dart automatic car and I'm switching over to a four speed with a Lakewood bell housing I'm wondering if there's any different type of Z bars adjusters anything out of the ordinary that I'm going to need to do this ! thanks you for your tip mopar or no car
Last edited by RAY1969CARS; 05/26/16 05:33 PM.
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Re: Lakewood bell housing install a body
[Re: RAY1969CARS]
#2080801
05/26/16 05:30 PM
05/26/16 05:30 PM
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,163
CT
GTX MATT
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,163
CT
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It should use the correct A body Z bar, you may need to trim the inside (bellhousing side) of it, I did on my B body, had to trim about an inch or so.
Now I need to pin those needles, got to feel that heat
Hear my motor screamin while I'm tearin up the street
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Re: Lakewood bell housing install a body
[Re: lorenr]
#2080866
05/26/16 07:29 PM
05/26/16 07:29 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Years ago when I ran a drag raced a 18 spline four speed I re-fabricated all of the parts.
The trick is to use a factory Z bar as a template, but re-enforce it so that there is 0 flex. I also re-built the pivot ball because it also showed some movement. I also welded a gusset to the mount on the bell housing.
I also used heavier clutch rods until I had it correct. Worked very well when i was done.
I used a Ram, Borg & Beck/ Long style clutch assembly after much trial and error. Contact them for what is the current best system. I know that spring pressures are quite low today and they are very reliable.
If you are going to drag race the thing, do it right and you will be happy. I did the same thing... I changed the ratio on the Z-bar on my 69 Valiant plus beefed it all up.. this was years ago so the heavy pressure plates were the way to go... I was running a 4200# plate and a 4400# plate.. on a 10.5# flywheel.. now days the dual disc and other things are the way to go with the adjustable weights(higher revs added more weight) I also welded another plate to the frame rail with those big pressure plates.. the first one started tearing out the frame rail 
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Re: Lakewood bell housing install a body small block
[Re: RAY1969CARS]
#2081205
05/27/16 11:42 AM
05/27/16 11:42 AM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,874
Ontario, Canada
Stanton
Don't question me!
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Don't question me!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 8,874
Ontario, Canada
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Id say that a mock up outside of car is close to a must. If possible this is the way to go. The pipes usually fit the body pretty well but things need tweaking when you switch to a scattershield. Better to grind. the bell than dent the tubes!!
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Re: Lakewood bell housing install a body small block
[Re: Stanton]
#2081234
05/27/16 12:40 PM
05/27/16 12:40 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Id say that a mock up outside of car is close to a must. If possible this is the way to go. The pipes usually fit the body pretty well but things need tweaking when you switch to a scattershield. Better to grind. the bell than dent the tubes!! I cut the headers to fit around the bell.. I didnt like grinding on a safety shield.. but since I changed the Z-bar I had to move the header tubes anyways
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Re: Lakewood bell housing install a body small block
[Re: DrCharles]
#2081417
05/27/16 05:56 PM
05/27/16 05:56 PM
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Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,457
Washington
madscientist
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master
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 4,457
Washington
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Won't you run into a problem with SFI recert if you grind on the "scallops" of the Lakewood?  No as long as you are grinding on the side for header clearance. 11.50 and slower don't even need a scatter shield, and if you want to put your own window in it and it's legal. 11.49 and quicker can't put more than a 1 inch hole in the bottom with having Lakewood put the window in it and doing a recent. In this day and age, I can't imagine needing all the reinforcement. You won't need more than 1000 pounds of base AT THE MOST. That's if you run the correct clutch. That means no diaphram, multiple rag disc junk. Should be running sintered iron.
Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston
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Re: Lakewood bell housing install a body small block
[Re: madscientist]
#2081450
05/27/16 07:27 PM
05/27/16 07:27 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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Won't you run into a problem with SFI recert if you grind on the "scallops" of the Lakewood? No as long as you are grinding on the side for header clearance. 11.50 and slower don't even need a scatter shield, and if you want to put your own window in it and it's legal. 11.49 and quicker can't put more than a 1 inch hole in the bottom with having Lakewood put the window in it and doing a recent. In this day and age, I can't imagine needing all the reinforcement. You won't need more than 1000 pounds of base AT THE MOST. That's if you run the correct clutch. That means no diaphram, multiple rag disc junk. Should be running sintered iron. If you grind ANY on a SFI part you have now violated the SFI.. try sending it back for a renewal on the SFI tag... it WILL BE denied.. thats FACT.. no guessing about that... I tried that on a SFI part
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