I have this P5/R7 circle track engine. Its a bad boy, I bought it freshened at Gnassi.
Who runs something like this?? Ideas on how to run it in a B Body Mopar??

What kind of auto trans would it take to run it?
And...how the heck does a guy post a pic on a thread? I see nothing

You want to talk with Leon on here

I have one in a -68 dart with 4 spd.
Only been to the track 3 times with a clutch thats really holding me back and some other issues. Best so far is 9.87 with a lowsy 1.49 60 but at 143 mph. Car is 3000lbs.
New clutch is in the works and also worked the carb that had a clogged air bleed and no jet extensions😖
I think they are great engines that doesnt need alot of maintenance or work at all.
Very little torque so gear and light weight is key.
Im very happy with mine.

I ran one in a 68 dart 9.42@143 1.26 60 ft all I did was change the carb I ran a 904 6800 convertor low frist gear 4.71 rear end 10.5 28 stiff wall M/T tire Leon on the board has a very nice bell housing for what ever Trans you decided to use I would recommend a 3spd not a glide just my opinion have fun there a neat little motor next thing your going to have to look at is a front end kit it's going to have to be front steer not rear

I have raced mine for a few years now. Bulletproof, no maintenance engine. Best so far 9.03s 148mph. 2850lbs. 1050 dominator. 727trans and 5.13 gears.

Now have 13.8:1 compression and some other mods, first race next weekend.

Make 3/8" plates to mount the R5 motor plate to ba fabbed bracket on fram rail. Buy, a rack and tube K member to clear drysump so you dont have to mount engine high. Buy, a used header for R5 and relocate a couple tubes.

Buy, my R5 to Reid bellhousing kit. It comes with 1/4" midplate and uses shelf stock parts from any performance retailer.

The bellhousing was designed for Reid half cases. Either Glide or Turbo 400. If you insist on running torqueflite I can get you an adapter to cut your bell off and bolt this ring to your pump. For a heavy car I would suggest a 3 speed. The glide wilk work but really work the converter.

These engines are clearanced for warm operating temps. Expect some oil smoke until it warms up. Idle hot oil pressure is scary low. If dragracing you can block off piston oilers and valve cover oilers. Some teams had pressure valves that sut off under 30 psi. I have not found them for sale. Would love to have that on valve covers. It is on my to do list of things to make.

My only regret with these engines. Is not switching over 10 years ago.

I have raced one for 6 years. I also agree with the above posts, that no maintenance is required, and that I too should have switched 10 years ago. Thus far, I've been 7.42 @ 179 mph @ 1650#.

Mike

I went BB this time but I really want to build one of these.

Glad to hear maintenance free, I am worried about expensive rebuilds
I got a Gnassi prepped R5. I have no idea what any specs are in the motor. A windberg crank? I think that is all i know

The only real spendy rebuld parts are the rings. You can always change pistons to a more economical ring package down the track.

Winberg cranks are top-drawer. But everything in a NASCAR engine is top-drawer.

R.

99% of them had a Bryant crank, a couple Winberg cranks ended up in restrictor plate only motors.

What specs are you wanting?