While driving my 84 d150 it seems to have tight steering which I thought would be expected with all new frontend parts but my steering wheel won't return to center but nothing is in a bind frontend alignment is dead on what could it be? I am running 15x8s with 275/60r15 up front could it be those wide tires that are making it do that? Plus seems touchy around 50-55 mph while steering down the road

My frontend was rebuilt new control arm bushings, new center link, new ball joints, new tierods took it to the frontend shop twice and everything is dead on

The steering coupler is good not loose. Is there a column bushing in these trucks? Mine has the non tilt column

IIRC only a rack & pinion that has return to center.

neither of my trucks return to center. 1 with PS and 1 with manual steer.

if it seems touchy at speed maybe have them reset the toe in a little wider so it does not dart around but not wide enough it pulls left right.

I talk with the guy running the rack so we understand how far off from the book I can go with no issues.

mine drives in a straight line and not a whole lot of correcting at the steer wheel at speed.

if it has a truck stance dropping the rear a little with drop shackles will help take some weight off the front tires and not make it track as much down the road.

The truck drives straight as an arrow I can let go of the wheel on a good road it tracks great, maybe I just need to get use to driving it last time I drove a d series was ten years ago, would going to say a 235/70r15 or 235/75r15 up front help the steering out maybe? And were can I get drop shackles for this truck at?

you can check the chebby drop shackles to get a set that has the correct bolt size for a dodge.

I did that and it was fine.

I used a front spring hanger off a junk truck to replace the rear hanger then flip the shackle over.

this will raise the truck 5-6 inches (for a 4x4 lift) or flop the axle on top of the spring (like a Dakotoa) to lower it 5-6 inches.

not that had to do. couple other tricks to use as it goes together to line it up and get the pinion angle corrected before welding the new perches to the axle tube.

I drop the rear with a flip flop on the rear to get a nice drag truck stance. I keep a stock front end and add the swaybar and steer box frame support on all of my trucks.

have a look a round the steering box where the bolts go through the frame. see if you see any cracks around the bolt holes? this might cause flex/binding/stiffness in the front.

look into a box support if you don't have one.

I get you some pics tonight.

I got the steering box brace and a factory sway bar

I got the steering box brace and a factory sway bar. Does the column bushing on these trucks could make the steering not return to center I was told all vehicles are supposed to do that my 98 ram 1500 2wd does.

Seems to me, proper toe in, is supposed to center the wheels, including the steering wheel.
That's why there is a toe in, instead of a neutral alignment.
These older vehicles are aligned to pull slightly to the left, to compensate for the crown in the road on old two lane highways. Newer vehicles are aligned for a more neutral condition, as most run on 4 lane super highways that are supposed to be flat.
Just a guess but, me thinks your alignment shop is not familiar with older vehicles.
Bottom line, your wheels should self center to a small extent.

The wide tires will not keep the steering from centering. It only creates a slight drag when steering and not moving.

Caster is what will make a vehicle stable at high speed and will return the wheel to center. Not sure what yours is but I always ask for MAX positive caster when setting alignment. Some idiot thought neg caster was acceptable on muscle era Mopars. Maybe he was not fired yet and set up trucks this way.

If you suspect a column bearing. Split your steering at the coupler to steering box to isolate.

I figured it out and please don't laugh to hard but I got the center drag link wrong

And it was drivable?? I did that a few years ago and while you could mostly drive it straight on pavement, when you hit gravel and turned it just a little it would plow something fierce. Had it to the alignment shop 3 times and they didn't find it, finally quit driving it for a while it was so bad until my son drove his up for a day and with them sitting side by side I could see the problem.

Yea it was drivable but you had to keep both hands on the steering wheel plus it would slide the tires on gravel when turning

If you had mentioned the gravel turn bit in your description I'd have told you right off what the issue was. That's the only part of it that I really remember. Sorry for the delay.
Mike