With the quality of the metals these days, is a sleeve as strong, not as strong, or the same strength as a stock big block? If it's stronger, can you get away with sleeving a 440 block for 400 bore safely. Just thinking out of the box.

I don't think its a issue weather you can bore the block or not, I think weather its sleeved or not the question is there enough material between the middle of each of the cylinders...

Specifically, sleeve for a 4.400 bore.

Depends on the sleeve. You can sleeves that are far better than OE cast iron, or you can get them just like OE cast iron.

I had a problem with one of my sleeves in my Indy block. When we pressed it out I found I could scribe a noticeable groove with a screwdriver if I tried really hard. I fitted a sleeve that was designed for a Bulldozer. Before we fitted it I again tried to reproduce the groove we made with the screwdriver but failed. I don't know what material Indy use but since I swapped all my sleeves with bulldozer sleeves they look like new everytime we freshen the engine. I can definately say that some sleeves are better than others & can also say Indy sleeves are cheap junk by comparrission.

If you plan to sleeve all 8, I would say it weakens the block. Just 1 or 2 on separate banks for repair is no prob. I wouldn't use a block for race engine that had 2 adjacent cylinders sleeved. Just my opinion.

We ran a 496 with a sleeved cylinder for many years. No problems. We now run an Indy Maxx block with 8 sleeves. LOL

Kenny, when you figure the cost of sleeving all 8 cylinders w/ quality sleeves, plus all other associated machine work and parts...you're gonna wish you'd just started w/ an aftermarket block. I used to charge $125 labor per hole, plus decking, etc. Not to mention, sleeving one still does nothing to alleviate the problem w/ the BB mopar driving the mains out of stock blocks. Other than possibly saving a block w/ thin walls, you're not gaining anything.

Depending on the metallurgical composition of the block and or the quality of the sleeves,many times the sleeved block will maintain the integrity of the block if done correctly.A sleeved iron block is vary similar to a sleeved alumuinium block.
We have run sleeved blocks with 1,2 or more sleeves with no issues and even blocks with 8 sleeves.The main issue is having enough material to lock the sleeve at both the upper and lower entrys.ie: most diesel engines are of sleeve design and are very strong since their application requires it.
First determine if your block is suitable for the desired sleeve and bore.Remember all applicable machine work will be required after the sleeving process.

I thought I read somewhere that the Pettys back in the day used to sleeve all 8 holes in their Hemi blocks.
What are you up to that you want to sleeve all 8 holes and need a 4.4" bore? I don't think you'd loose much strength, may gain some if you use high quality sleeves made of really good cast or ductile iron.

This is confusing , 440 bore is 4.320 , 400 is 4.342 ? 400 is .022 over a 440 ?

Sleeves are usually stronger than the block they are being put it.

I think to be safe with a 4.400 bore you'd need to sleeve it so the O.D. of the bores are touching? As stated it's going to cost you $$$$ to do that to an old 440 block, it would be more cost effective to buy a Megablock.

I have a 1977 LA360 block that I was going to build for my truck, but it already is at .040 and #5 cylinder has two long grooves the length of the cylinder and probably will not clean up at .060 . I only paid $100.00 for the long block core with good big port iron heads and the truck oil pan, so I can afford to throw it out. Years ago I worked at a local Allis=Chalmers dealership as the parts manager and their engines all used sleeves and that is how you overhauled one of them when it was finally time for that.

There's a good chance that you're making your current block much more expensive before it begins to leak water, blow head gaskets, or explode.

BTW: you don't get anything like the same VE, torque or hp as: new size / old size = increase.
E.g., 4.32" > 4.40" does not produce 3.7% more power.

I got prices from two good builders to sleeve all eight cylinders in my Hemi block because of a machining problem. Using the best sleeve with flange at top, quoted $1600+, that's line hone and decking too. With the newest high dollar machine that bores them square to the crank line

Since my -1's have 2.25 intake valves, I was thinking that a 4.40 bore would be beneficial to help unshroud the airflow. I need to check out current prices at my local guy. I have a set of aluminum rods 6.7 long with SBC journals. Could offset grind almost any crank to give me decent stroke/displacement.

And you'll wind up w/ a ton of money in a stock block that will likely crack the main webs after a year or so. That's a lot of money for a minimal gain in power too...just unshrouding the valves a little. By the time you put aluminum caps on it and do all the other machining, you'll have as much in it as an aftermarket block but still be stuck w/ a grenade at your power level.

I posted this question on Yellow bullet some time ago...maybe worth a look under same name. What I gathered is at best it's a cap shoot and many capable shops argued which method was best. You're loosing column strength doing all 8 which may be corrected by brazing it all together afterward. ..And I used the word maybe. I've been fixing many things in my years and I believe there is always a way to skin a cat. My conclusion is in agreement with some here...get a better block.

Additionally, I'd ONLY take it to someone who has successfully done this before. ..and I'd bet when you find that person they'll be OLD LOL. To those who say "no problem, other blocks are built with sleeves"...This doesn't translate because, those blocks are, BY DESIGN, engineered to utilize a sleeve. OR inherently may lend themselves BETTER to this process.

My buddies Stock Eliminator run 8 sleeves with no issues. I would ask why,and what is your goal.





Ray

Stock eliminators usually use a larger bore block and sleeve it down. For example a 400 block sleeved to 383 bore size. You end up with a nice ridgid block because the cylinder wall thickness is INCREASED. Taking a 440 to 4.400 bore would take the majority of the original cylinder wall out. You would end up with a block that has no joining material between the cylinders. Not ideal for strength plus you have the stresses of 4 press fits. Boring it enough to clean up and relieve the cylinder walls at the top to aid flow will result in a much better engine.