With an SFI Turbo case and the bolt on bell for the SBM, you are good to go. No blankets, no shields. It's also a bunch lighter than a 727. The use of the 400 allows a MUCH better converter selection. The Mopar trans are too short from the block to front pump, which severely limits the core choices that FIT. The GM spacing allows nearly unlimited choices. I THINK a 400 fits with no floor pan mods on most cars, but I am not sure. Several on this site have Turbos, maybe they will answer that.

Thanks Monte for that info! Who is the go-to guy for this setup? Its going in an Abody so tunnel would probably need altered which is no big deal at this phase of the build.

Also apologies to the original poster for hijacking thread

Rossler in Ohio or Performance Transmission in Illinois.

Another, often overlooked, advantage of the TH400 is the shifting. No matter how well built a 727 is, there is still an unavoidable overlap at the 2-3 shift while a race-prepared 400 has no overlap; to upshift you merely add another clutch...no release/apply cycle.

Rossler is an option. Not who I use, but a viable option, as is Mark Micke at M&M Transmission. Dave Klaput at Proformance Trans is a 400 guru as well. We have a PTC Turbo 400 in our radial car. They work hand in hand with Dave at Proformance on 400 stuff. A top of the line 400 is virtually indestructible, but expensive. For your needs, even with a good case, I believe you will be in a good 400 cheaper than a 727 and be a better trans. Call any of these guys and they will guide you in the right direction

I wouldn't hesitate to run the 727. It will live.

We ran the same 727 behind our B1 motor for 3 years, and it did not have all the parts yours has. Made about 1050-1100 with a 250 shot of Nitrous every pass in a 3400 lbs car.

Freshened it every winter.

I never caught it low enough to see peak. The highest number I saw was 978 for tq. So maybe 10-20 more at another 200 lower rpm.

For sure the Reid cases belled for a mope in a glide, or 400 are great, and I have both.

I will switch over to a glide later on, mostly because I want to spray it. I think it'll be faster with a 2 speed than a 3 in the eighth. Maybe a 2 speed 400 would be better if I was planning on going faster than I am planning.

I'd like the car to go 30 anythings on motor (to bracket race), and a 99 on spray for giggles.

Well, I'll be dammed...


Somebody not hugging brand X...

I'm glad you brought that up Monte, because that's a good place to start. Matt said he ran a 727 for quite a while, and in our short conversation, he intimated that it kept showing "Hot spots in certain places", that caused him to move on to the 400.

That's my point Why can't we have a grown up conversation about what is breaking, how often service is required, and what was done to prolong the problems, rather than a bunch of rhetoric from one side about "Mopar only", and rhetoric from the other side about "aftermarket transmissions". I've ran glides, and they have many shortcomings in certain applications and levels of builds. Like wise with the turbo 400, just because a Rossler 210 is working for Pro-Mods, that certainly doesn't mean every turbo 400 ever built just became bullet proof!

I'd rather move the conversation away from lightweight Pro-flite stuff, and actually talk about how much of the diesel stuff can be used to make a stronger trans.

I'm over my head, most of our 727s have been stock style internals with just a valve body and deep pan, but we've had cars in the high nines at 3000 to 3500lbs. and we had much longer service life with those than the typical glide in the same situation.

I'm inquisitive because I like the idea of a 727 on Drag Week, versus a glide. If it was a racecar, I'd go full JW Glide in a heartbeat.

I have to agree with Monte, so what if you use a 400 or glide trans, so long as you still run the Mopar engine it is still a MOPAR!!!!!
I have a fab 9 in my truck which is... OH NO a ford based rear end, so what a Reid case 400 will be in my future when funds are right but for now I will be rocking a 727 for a while (I hope lol)

Also I'm glad to hear from others on the 727 strength as I was worried about putting a brake in it and it breaking on me first pass, I think I should be good as I don't make the power as most of you on here.

Like every other guy Billy, I started with a 727 and an 8.75. After breaking more 8.75s than I could count, I went to a Ford. Same with the 727. I ended up with a really good one, but I had a bunch of money in it. Then when it broke again and needed MORE money thrown at it........I moved on to other things.

My reason for suggesting a 400, is because dollar for dollar spent, the 400 is a better trans. JUST talking trans. You will have to factor in driveshaft, shifter, flywheel, whatever else is required to switch. For me it boiled down to being tired of constantly breaking the 727 and having to pull it out and spend more money on it. If I was going to spend MORE, I just didn't think it was wise to keep funneling money in a trans with a stock case

I understand why you would suggest a turbo 400. I just feel like it might be worth it for someone who has already killed some 727s to spell out the order in which the band aids need to be applied.

I've pretty much decided that the Indy 512 lowdeck in the corner will get a tunnel ram and two foggers, and that's as much hp as I'll ever have on tap.

For guys wanting to swap to GM trans, Sid, and Keith Neal @ Neal Racing trans in ga are great guys with tons of fast stuff out there. Perfect reputation, and perfect to deal with. Very much like Cope, for a Mope.

Assuming you have a good trans, with proper clearances and some of the shift overlap problems addressed......Some guys never get this far.......then you move on to whats going to break. First is usually the alum planet. Rings the center out. So you upgrade to the steel pinion planet. After this, it's usually the output shaft and then finally the input. So at this point you have $1100 worth of shafts in the trans, along with your $400 steel planets. Assuming you had a nice trans before, with alum drums etc, you are approaching big bucks in a factory cased trans.

My car was 3200lbs, 10.5 tire, 446" motor with a single fogger. Never had bigger than a .040 jet in it. It would 60ft in the high 1 teens. I had everybody in the world work on the trans and it had GOOD parts. It was out for SOMETHING every other race. Broken hard parts, smoked clutches.....something. I put the glide in it and it would go the season no problem. Plus was faster

ok your 400 and your power guide works great. the bottom line is the chevy guys built 2 trans to work with there power level . I am saying we need more guys working on 727s to be at the same power level. not guys like you jumping the fence because you could not keep yours togather . by the way the 65 Plymouth was at mason dixon dragway on Saturday and went 1.15 in the 60 and 4.99 in the 1/8 and he builds his trans in his basement

OK, maybe I was wrong when I suggested a grown up conversation. Can
I get a show of hands? How many guys tossing around opinions on this have actually had a 727, 904, C-4, C-6, Turbo 400, Turbo 350, and Glide apart on a build table and know what makes each one tick? Just wondering aloud. Forgive me if I think that has merit in this discussion.

My first Glide for my SST car was a stock case with stock 1.76 internals and a Hughes Pro Brake...darned thing nickel and dimed me to death!!

I have ran quite a few torqueflites. With power the planetary will pull the splines out. With the right valve body and band adjustment the 2-3 shift is great. And can be proven with driveshaft data. The converter is shallow as Monty mentioned. I was able to built an extremely durable 727 for less than $2,000.

Went powerglide and bought what I was told to buy and had a lot more money in it with stock case and jw bell. But, it last pretty well also with about half tge clutch life with much more line pressure than 727.

With my bellhousing business I get a lot of gm transmission builds using Reid cases. There is no comparison from a stock case to the Reid. Extremely good quality as well as the clean tunnel without sheilds. I am finding the superglide is a costly transmission plus the grand in cost of case. The turboglide will definitely give you sticker shock. But, I go with what I am told to use. I don't know what can be gotten away with. With the 727, I know whats needed and what is suggested.

I love me some old torqueflites. But even proflites make the change to a deeper converter, Montes spot on about that. And tge stock case is not blow proof. If there was a Reid quality case with a deeper converter pocket I'd recommend a torqueflite. But, there is not. With the quality of aftermarket parts if you have the funds and ability to change mounts go tge aftermarket gm based tranny. I have pump adapters for torqueflite to Reid for a reason. With a relatively low torque R5 358 the 904 is faster than any other automatic. But, awkward and junky with the necessary sheilds.

When I got to the point where I was breaking the output, and twisting the input shafts, I was forced to make a decision. I talked to locals who all told me to go turbo400.
I was intimately familiar with my trans by that point. I looked at some disassembled trans' at hipsters. The stock shafts in a turbo 400 are not the size of a t/f at their minimal cross section. At that point, I figured I had to buy shafts for either, so why change the car that was already set up for the t/f? I realize now that the shaft design has alot to do with the strength, along with the material.
Anyway, at that time, there weren't any guys locally that could give me an example of a car comparable to mine in weight, tq and gear combo using a t400. I went the A&A T/F$$$$ route. Didn't have to change the car, and had a very reliable trans.
My decision was definitely not a brand loyalty decision. Car was a gm body, chrysler engine, ford rear end and some garbage truck parts
All that being said, I now would go with the t400.

Never had those on the table, but, my 727 broke on relatively low hp. Never blew a 904. Buddy's Turbo 400 aka never fails. I've puked a turbo 350. Stock glide damn near bulletproof but HEAVY for a 2-speed. C4/C6/FMX is absolute garbage, as my buddies 67 stang can attest too. But by far the strongest tranny I ever seen was a stock 4L80e. Any stock tranny that lives behind a 1000+hp Truck deserves respect. Next 360 I do is getting the 4L60e (same bellhousing as a turbo 350/400).

That said I understand the purest who wants to run only Mopar parts and that's great! But I never had a guy look under mt cars to see what trans I'm running. And if they do and complain.. well buy it and put whatever you want.

You guys that are breaking the cases.. what is breaking
on the cases.. is it the tail shaft or what(I'm not
talking about blowing a drum to blow the case)... and what
king of set up are you running as in front, mid plates and
what trans mount.. I myself never run a solid trans mount ever