Is there any reason other than the extra weight (big reason I know...) and limited gear ratios not to run a Dana vs 8.75 on a pro-touring type build? I am looking at the Strange S60.

http://www.strangeengineering.net/high-p...ing-mounts.html

I completely went through the 8.75 in my Challenger, moser axles, Detroit trutrac, ect... and by the time your done, there isn't a huge price difference in just going Dana and picking up some strength to boot and all new bolt in and forget it parts.

I'd want to do it all ready to roll, with a brake kit if anyone has any recommendations on that front as well, I plan on running gen 3 Viper disks in the front.

This will be for my Charger big block, 4-speed, XV level 1 suspension.

Thanks for the help!

you don't need the holding capacity of the dana. the dana was used in drag racing because of slicks. you could probably stick a 7 1/4 in there for the turns and you'd be fine.

cons -

cost
weight
ratios
not easy to switch gears
less availability of parts

What housing ends and bearings would you use? I've been wanting to put one in my duster. I put Dana's in 2 other a bodies it they were street strip builds.

I know I am just thinking if I am going to dump 2k into redoing an 8.75 I minds well spend 3 and have a brand new bulletproof Dana with disks brakes, powdercoated, ready to rock n' roll. I am on the list for the Passon 5 speed, so i think that with 3.54's in the Dana would be a nice livable on the street choice. This car will be 95% messing around on the street and occasional open track day type deal. I also like the idea of being able to throw slicks/drag radials on it and doing drag racing too. It would be 1 less thing to worry about down the road if I add big power too.

I have already broken a side gear in the Spicer clutch diff in my 8 3/4. All it is is peppy 6.1 and a 6spd in my 72 Dart. The S60 housings are lighter than factory 60 housings. Im thinking a Dana is in my future with the big Ford ends for the big non adjustable bearing. Cornering is harder on stuff than you think. After this year I hope to find a buyer for my 8 3/4.

Are those new side gears or old factory original ones?

I have to agree with Jerry. My 742- 8¾" has been through a lot in the last 6 years with no failures. 3.23 gears and stock axles pushing almost 600HP. Now I have only had drag radials on the car once and it mostly track driven. There is a lot to making these last, oils, axle play, etc. I have a grand total of $350 into mine......

Broken originals, I got it used and it had a broken cross shaft but the gears looked good so I put in a new cross and new clutches. Now it has all new guts with the same fresh clutches. I am hard on her, I can do a real good Dick Landy impression minus the cigar. I am pretty sure it would grenade if it ever dead hooks. Car weighs 3700 with driver.

Thanks , seems to be a bit of problem lately with some 8 3/4's wrecking side gears, the ones that I know of happened in new centre sections.

Good to see you posting again Viol8r, how is the front end that you are testing working out?

Luckily that side gear and the one tooth off a pinion gear was all that was hurt.

I have no problems with an 8.75, the one in my Challenger has held up great. It's just by the time I do what I did with that one, I minds well just do the Dana and have nothing to worry about. My only concern is other than weight it might not be up to a handling application.

With strength comes weight, I doubt you would notice any difference from a handling perspective.

If you do want to spend that extra Grant, why not get an aluminium carrier-housing for the 8-3/4"?

I would just get a junkyard 60, have Dutchman narrow it and provide shafts, use the torino ends, explorer brake kit from a jeep place, find a set of true Spicer 3.54 gears, diff of your choice (prefer power lok) and put it together, should cost about $1200 plus your labor. Tim

I run an 8.75 behind a BB stroker with manual trans in a corner application. It has held up fine with 200 TW tires in HSAX which is standing start. If I switched to sticky 50 TW track tires I would probably break it on the standing start.

I think the D 60 would be good if ratios work for you. I would use the taper bearings or double taper non adjustable Ford style bearings. Not green bearings.

If the D60 ratios do not work, a beefed 9" is an option.

In my case I run (and need) 3.23 so I don't think a Dana 60 would work,

I like the Dr Diff 11.7" rear discs which should work with any of the axle choices.

I have considered this to, have one in the backyard, but those truck axles have 3/8" wall tube, or thicker, and after you buy ends $100, pay to have them put on $2-250, have it cleaned and painted $40? An S60 housing with billet side adjusters and choice of ends at $665 is pretty attractive.

I'll keep my 8-3/4" until it dies, but I expect to replace it with a fabricated 9" housing when it does. For whatever that is worth. Good on unsprung weight, endless aftermarket support, nice brake options, and priced pretty reasonably.

I would do either a Torino bearing 9" or a 9" floating axle before a Dana for weight. The Dana is just a heavy beast and not really necessary.

I don't know why people seem to think a 9" is a good thing. Stock, they are weak. Spend a ton of money replacing all the stock parts and you still have an axle that is just as heavy as the Dana but not quite as strong.

Car Craft is a comparison between the 9", the S60 and the 12 bolt

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transmission-drivetrain/ccrp-0806-chevy-chevelle-rear-axle-swap/